Universal Monitor chassis, do they work?

dyno

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I have a millipede cabinet with a Matsushita 202 with a dead flyback. Not having much luck finding a replacement, but I have seen these universal monitor chassis on ebay for $100. Do they actually work properly and worth buying as a replacement. I prefer to fix he matsushita, but finding a replacement flyback seems impossible.
 
I've only had experience with one of these and it was an Eygo chassis. It produced a picture, but I could never get the image to fit correctly and the geometry was never quite right. I ended up replacing it with a G07 chassis which looked 1000 times better. So yes, they do work, but they are cheaply made. You may get lucky or you may have issues. Suppose it's worth a try at least once
 
I have a millipede cabinet with a Matsushita 202 with a dead flyback. Not having much luck finding a replacement, but I have seen these universal monitor chassis on ebay for $100. Do they actually work properly and worth buying as a replacement. I prefer to fix he matsushita, but finding a replacement flyback seems impossible.
You can get them cheaper directly from Aliexpress, just might take a little longer to get it. I'm using one right now to hold me over while I work on thr K7000 it is taking the place of, but aside from the lack of a degauss circuit and taking a little while to compensate for brightness changes when a scene changes, after you give it a good 15-20 min to warm up, the picture quality is actually very good. Just be 100% sure to cut off the stock power cable and connect to an isolation transformer, and it would ge great if there was a cap kit for these.
 
Sounds like the answer is "no" to me.
Not sure why you say that. They aren't the ideal solution always, but they do actually work. I've been using one for a couple months and the picture quality is excellent. The only issue I have is there no degauss circuit so the (large magnets on them) speakers do have a minor discoloring effect. Geometry is excellent, color is every good, especially after it's warmed up for a little bit. Attached some pics (using a MiSTerCade setup in this cabinet).
 

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They work ok, depends on the game. I have one on a gO7 in a pacman it looks really good except for some minor distortion on the edge of the screen. I had another one in sn afterburner I sold which looked great no issues.
 
Not sure why you say that.

If you have to wait 15-20 min for it to warm up, it doesn't work.

That is like saying TOG is a real business because who only need to wait one or two years for them to ship.
 
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If you have to wait 15-20 min for it to warm up, it doesn't work.
You're misunderstanding what I'm saying. It works immediately, just the color handling gets better after a short amount of time. This is very common, that's why you should almost always do your color calibration after 15-20 minutes with any chassis. For example during the Simpsons is intro, the blue in the sky is pretty dark if I start playing immediately, but after waiting a bit it's very bright and vibrant and stays that way. I'd imagine maybe swapping all the caps would speed up this process, but its a low-hassle, simple solution.
 
Mike has a couple videos on them too, that's what convinced me to try:
 
many of these current production are cheaply made,
note NO degauss on the board , will be current cheap copy.
yes they are universal, but you need modify to suit your needs,
you may need change the resistor for the tube heater, to get correct 6.3v
you will need change the input voltage resistor to suit your step-down transformer
you will need change high voltage capacitors to suit you tube size
i did a thread on the Wie-ya 426-h chassis years ago, it covers all of the mod's to make these "universal" chassis suit your tube.
but in short they are a good option for a chassis, if set up right !

here is a link to my 426H thread
 
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