United Shuffle Alley Deluxe (1949) schematic

timiskander

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I'm working on a 1949 United Shuffle Alley Deluxe, and the schematic I have is the regular "Shuffle Alley" version (without the disappearing pins). The schematic is also not very legible (I bought it from the pinball resource).
If anyone has documentation for the deluxe version, or a clean schematic they can scan in or lend me I'd really appreciate it. I'm having some phantom scoring issues I need to work out before our Halloween arcade night!

cheers
/Tim
 
Schematic

I have an electronic copy of the schematic for a (1951?) United Deluxe 6 Player Shuffle Alley. If you contact me, I can arrange to send a copy to you. The file is too large to post and becomes illegible when it is reduced/compressed.
 
1951 6 player shuffle alley

By coincidence I have just acquired this same game for restoration. I believe there were 2 somewhat different models in 51 and I have the earlier model (I think) with the horizontal light up scoreboard. I believe you have wiring schematics (which have been removed from my unit). Can I get copies from you? I am also missing the coin mech and front door assembly. Any ideas for these parts? Thanks Don Jones 392 Moxley Rd, Dundas Ont. Canada L9H 5L5. PS I would be happy to reimburse for any of your printing costs.
 
United Shuffle Alley Deluxe Schematic

Hello, I recently acquired a United Shuffle Alley Deluxe 6 player game. I am in search of a schematic and so help with an issue I am having with the unit. I know this is an older post but I am hoping that some of the same people are still active in forums. I am having an issue with my unit resetting frames. I am a mechanic by trade and have some knowledge of electrical components but since the unit is about 20 years older than me some of the operations and controllers are new to me. I have been able to adjust one of the relays to get the unit to play one player start to finish all the way thru all 10 frames but if I readjust back to original setting it doesn't matter if you put 1 coin in or 6 coins it always plays 6 players and will not reset frames. On a rare occasion it would reset but was very few times. I have cleaned most of the contacts that should be related to this operation. Some of the controllers move so fast that I cant get a clear understanding on what is happening during to process of testing. Any help with this would be great. Thanks
 
Hello, I recently acquired a United Shuffle Alley Deluxe 6 player game. I am in search of a schematic and so help with an issue I am having with the unit. I know this is an older post but I am hoping that some of the same people are still active in forums. I am having an issue with my unit resetting frames. I am a mechanic by trade and have some knowledge of electrical components but since the unit is about 20 years older than me some of the operations and controllers are new to me. I have been able to adjust one of the relays to get the unit to play one player start to finish all the way thru all 10 frames but if I readjust back to original setting it doesn't matter if you put 1 coin in or 6 coins it always plays 6 players and will not reset frames. On a rare occasion it would reset but was very few times. I have cleaned most of the contacts that should be related to this operation. Some of the controllers move so fast that I cant get a clear understanding on what is happening during to process of testing. Any help with this would be great. Thanks
Hello, I recently acquired a United Shuffle Alley Deluxe 6 player game. I am in search of a schematic and so help with an issue I am having with the unit. I know this is an older post but I am hoping that some of the same people are still active in forums. I am having an issue with my unit resetting frames. I am a mechanic by trade and have some knowledge of electrical components but since the unit is about 20 years older than me some of the operations and controllers are new to me. I have been able to adjust one of the relays to get the unit to play one player start to finish all the way thru all 10 frames but if I readjust back to original setting it doesn't matter if you put 1 coin in or 6 coins it always plays 6 players and will not reset frames. On a rare occasion it would reset but was very few times. I have cleaned most of the contacts that should be related to this operation. Some of the controllers move so fast that I cant get a clear understanding on what is happening during to process of testing. Any help with this would be great. Thanks



Shuffle alleys the most complex EM games u can work on after months of hammering away at mine getting it to play but still had glitches I took a break. You mentioned that your using coins to play? Do you actually use the coin mechanism or is a dummy coin switch meaning you deactived the coin springs so it will just slide in by pushing? If you are using coins that may be part of the issue what I do is make it slide with a spring action so it easily opens and closes as if your playing with a coin. It will be much more reliable and u won't need to dig for change every time u want to play, its crucial the coin switch operates smoothly and check that the insulation paper between the blade and coin chute slide is not worn or broken off causing the additional players to add up. If it's not that problem it could be a lot of different things that you'll for sure need a schematic to walk through. Also might check out on marcos pinball site if they have a video 'V6 EM bowlers' it will take you through a entire restoration process focuses on ball bowlers but applies to shuffle alleys.
 
I have already installed a dummy switch in place of the coin switch. Yes the coin switch was sticky so that's why I removed it for the time being. I believe my problem partly lies with the player reset relay. I have tried a lot of adjustments on this relay and doesn't seem to fix my problem so I believe that I have another issue in another component. This is why I am trying to find a schematic for this unit. I am going do some more contact cleaning but not sure that that is all of the answer either. I printed off a manual from a similar model but it has components that mine does not so I will have to try to read between the lines so to say. I don't really want to disturb the wiring much since it is fragile after 60+ years. its hard to tell the colors at the ends due to the age so it makes it hard for me to figure out exactly which wire ends up where. Thanks for any input.
 
I have already installed a dummy switch in place of the coin switch. Yes the coin switch was sticky so that's why I removed it for the time being. I believe my problem partly lies with the player reset relay. I have tried a lot of adjustments on this relay and doesn't seem to fix my problem so I believe that I have another issue in another component. This is why I am trying to find a schematic for this unit. I am going do some more contact cleaning but not sure that that is all of the answer either. I printed off a manual from a similar model but it has components that mine does not so I will have to try to read between the lines so to say. I don't really want to disturb the wiring much since it is fragile after 60+ years. its hard to tell the colors at the ends due to the age so it makes it hard for me to figure out exactly which wire ends up where. Thanks for any input.

I'm not understanding that the wires are to fragile to move around. Mine is 1950 and the wires are fine in fact I pull and tug them all around and if they have a loose solder connection that is weak enough to come loose by a little force fixing the connection is required anyways it's a good test method. Too get this playing correctly and safely for years to come you can't be gentle and a full run though of the electrical and mechanical of the game should be done. I could not find my schematic for along time did the same thing you are using a similar game schematic that only makes things worse. To get colors back cut loose the wire wrapping spray some non diluted simple green on the wire harness and scrub with a brush. If your wires are so brittle that they can't handle that without breaking you don't want them to run power anyways.
 
I had a 1953 United Chief Shuffle Alley that only played 6 player games when I first purchased it. I cleaned all the score reels and stepper units. It continued and would only play 6 player games. I visually inspected everything I could. Lo & behold, one of the wipers on the back side of the score motor was broken with the contact being missing. I soldered on a new piece from some parts I have laying about..... so that the wiper would actually make contact, and it worked just fine.

That machine is no longer in my rec room....as someone wanted it more than I did.

A couple of months ago, I bought a 1954 United 11th Frame Shuffle Alley. I didn't know if the machine was operable or not. I again cleaned all the score reels and stepper units. I had to repair a couple of pins, do some cleanup and look over the contacts. The backglass had some paint flaking as well. I bought some of those $.50 paints from wally world and did my best. I sure wouldn't even think of doing this type of paint touchup on anything but an inexpensive machine. I had only paid $250 for the shuffle alley. The machine played just fine and I have a very low cost playing shuffle alley.

I also have a 1957 United Bowling Alley Ball Bowler. It was inoperable when I purchased it. All the score reels and stepper units were cleaned. I had to replace a nylon gear in the score motor. It still wasn't operable.
The culprit. One of the switches on the score motor was out of adjustment.
Its now operates about 98%. I still have a "flyaway" bowling pin and some occasional 10th frame scoring issues.

So I am far from an expert on bowlers, having some successes, but still get stumped on some issues.

All I can say is to visually inspect everything with a clear eye on everything. manually try all stepper units to see if they are operating as they should.
 
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