United 3 -WAY shuffle alley backglass art file is available

pinnut

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United 3 -WAY shuffle alley backglass art file is available

i made a translite for my 3-way shuffle alley. the orig one had a big crack in the plexi, and other issues. it came out real well, everything lines up nicely. if you have a 3 -way with a bad backglass, let me know.
 

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Pinnut that puck alley looks fantastic...better yet that you were able to repro the translite. I wish I could do that for my Midway Cobra! Again looks great!
 
take it to a kinkos or sign shop. scan it in sections, try to ensure at least 20% overlap. use autostitch or similar software to put the pieces together. use gimp( free) oe photoshop to fil in the missing ink, etc. then off to a decent sign shop to have a translite printed. there is a bit of a learning curve with gimp( or especially photoshop) buy its fun when you get the hang of it and it will something you will use in the future again. have a cheap paper xerox copy of the art file before you go to the printer, make sure things line up.
 
Thanks pinnut...I've heard of others doing this successfully. However not many go into the detail of how. Going to do this over the winter when the schedule is free from the honey do list...

Thanks again foir the advice...
 
i have scans from a very simple wall game backglass. when you have nothing to do, i can send them to you , and you can practice on them. it takes a good couple of hours to learn even the basic of a graphics program. i spent a decent amount of time on it, and know about 10% of what people who do it for a living know. i did a lot of it at my job. in my line of work, i'm sort of like a fireman. when things go bad, its crazy, but when things are good, i have downtime and can play with stuff like this. if you plan on working on arcade game in the future, it makes the difference between looking at a game that makes you sick, and the same game looking like something you can be proud of.
there are before and afters of the glass here:
http://s408.photobucket.com/albums/pp163/mhooker32/bowler glass/?start=0
 
Looks great Pinnut. I have to make a translite for one of my EM games. Do you just make a single layer for the translite or do you have to also put a second layer over the back to stop the light shining through certain areas?
 
thats where it gets tricky. 99& of the time, its fine as is. you will lose the things that you cant normally see unless lit. things like tilt, game over, stuff like that. if you really miss that stuff, you can create little pieces to put behind the translite. i did that with X's and slashes for strikes and spares. cut them out of static cling black vinyl and stuck them on the back of the glass. now when they light, you see an X or / . most of the time, the game isnt worth the extra effort for tilt, game over, match. you just want it to not look like a piece of junk. if you get a halo effect from bulbs, you can paint the bulbs to diffuse the light, or just remove the offending bulb .
 
Wow

Pinnut unbelievable - what a fantastic repro. May I ask how you adhered it to the plexi? Did you place it on the front or the back of the plexi or the print shop adhere it to the plexi?

Absolutely awesome!!!!

That's what this hobby is all about being creative and why I love it so much. I'll take you up on the offer regarding the wall game art for practice. I'll PM you my email address.

I have a major shine through issue on mine. Player up, game over, shoot again, etc.

I may take a shot at my Chicago Coin Twin Riffle too...

Again you sharing this information is greatly appreciated!
 

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the orig plexi was 1/4 " . i put the translite between 2 1/8 " pieces. thats the first time i ever did that. on pinballs, i just put it behind the glass, and the plastic trim pieces that go around the edges secure it. the bowler translite was laminated, the printer said it locks in the colors. makes sense to me, but it was rather stiff. also, harder to cut out the score windows, that stuff it tough . i'm not sure how well it would lay down against a piece of glass with nothing behind it. it may "bow " away from the glass near the middle. most pinball glasses are not 1/4 , so it would be tough to use two thin pieces. also, glass is better than plexi. unless doubling up, i think i'd skip the laminate. you couldnt roll up the bowler translite easily, i dont know if i would even try, it was stiff . pinball translites from later games roll up easily, and tight, so i guess they dont laminate. this place:

http://www.gameongrafix.com/index.php

prints from peoples art. they might be able to explain their process for making more flexible translites. i had one made years ago buy another outfit. i took a good look at it recently, and it looks like it was printed on an opaque material, then a piece of clear mylar was affixed to the back. i guess thats one way to do it.
 
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