Ultimate MPU and Mr & Mrs Pac ... how to hook up?

alejandromad

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Ultimate MPU and Mr & Mrs Pac ... how to hook up?

So I bought this Pin.. it's my first.
I get it home and I am hooking up the connections to the boards in the head and I see the MPU doesn't look like the one in the manual. It's an Alltek Systems version G.1 Ultimate MPU. I read the online manual and it says:
"Now plug in the connectors, two on the left and two on the right, assuring that the connector keys line up for each connector".
OK, swell.. so far so good. I match up J1, J2, and J3... but with J4 I have a problem. It's no longer a single connector with a key to help me put it on correctly.
Now it's 2 connectors that have been spliced into the wire bundle in place of the original plug for 'J4'.

Here's my question... maybe stupid but I'd rather expose my ignorance and play pinball than guess...

Can I meter the plug for continuity based on the schematic of the original MPU for J4?
For example:
J4 pin 1 goes to A3J4-3 ... I assume this to mean board A3 (solenoid driver), plug J4 pin 3.
If I meter between those two pins... and I have zero resistance... that would indicate the proper orientation of that plug... yes?
I would verify a few others but I have the concept correct... right?

Sorry for being so wordy but I want it to be clearly explained.

Thanks for reading and for any help.
-Allen
 
Can I meter the plug for continuity based on the schematic of the original MPU for J4?
For example:
J4 pin 1 goes to A3J4-3 ... I assume this to mean board A3 (solenoid driver), plug J4 pin 3.
If I meter between those two pins... and I have zero resistance... that would indicate the proper orientation of that plug... yes?
I would verify a few others but I have the concept correct... right?

You have the concept right and your numbers match the schematics.

The pinout of the ultimate MPU is the same as the original -35 MPU.
 
Thanks. I did figure out which pin on the new pair of plugs for J4 was the top pin, I hooked them up, and I fired it up. Started no problem... talks, plays music, coins up... but won't kick the ball out at all. I haven't done any leveling yet... seems OK "eyeball wise" but I have no idea.
Is there a way to tell how much to adjust the leg levelers?
Would that keep it from kicking out the ball to start the game?
(it's not even trying to kick out the ball)

Thanks...
Allen
 
Thanks. I did figure out which pin on the new pair of plugs for J4 was the top pin, I hooked them up, and I fired it up. Started no problem... talks, plays music, coins up... but won't kick the ball out at all. I haven't done any leveling yet... seems OK "eyeball wise" but I have no idea.
Is there a way to tell how much to adjust the leg levelers?
Would that keep it from kicking out the ball to start the game?
(it's not even trying to kick out the ball)

Thanks...
Allen

I doubt that the angle of the playfield would have any impact on releasing the ball.

I would try the solenoid test first. You might have a blown solenoid fuse or something. I've had that happen when you setup a machine that's been stored for a while. Not sure why that happens. See if it kicks the ball out in solenoid test and go from there.

Could be any number of other problems but I would check that first. After confirming there's actually a ball in there.
 
Also make sure that the dip switches are set to mr & mrs pac.

When I used the ultimate mpu in my rapid fire, I forgot set the dip switches. The game powered up but that was all.

If those are already set correctly, do like Lindsey said, check your fuses.
 
Thanks for the help! The dip on the Ultimate MPU is definately set for the right game.
I did manage to get it into self-test last night and it failed the soloenoid test for "1" (Top Left Saucer - Kick to Left ) and "5" (Outhole). Go figure.

Interestingly enough, as I played it before buying it... when the first ball landed in the 'Top Left Saucer'... it kicked about 5 - 10 times before it actually kicked the ball out.

Now, after getting it home, it seems to have failed completely.

Any advice on how to figure out where that break down is?
I assume I will have to figure out how to get under the playfield.

One other silly question... is it possible the two failed solenoid problems are related.. what I mean is, could one be causing the other?

Thanks again for all your help. I was reading online until 1 AM last night trying to get an understanding of pinball terminology and technology.
-Allen
 
My guess is that you have a connector problem at the regulator/driver board.

Assuming that your connectors are okay I would start by checking for voltage at those coils and then manually ground the metal tab on the driver transistor for each coil. That should energize the coil. If that test doesn't energize the coil you have a wiring problem, open coil, connector problem or some other problem breaking the path from the transistor to the coil. If that test energizes the coil you can suspect an open driver transistor or some other problem on the board.
 
OK... perfect. I think I get it.
I will try out your suggestions and report back on the specific cause of the problem.
Thanks so much.
 
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