Ultimate Mk3 monitor burn in

sickr1rider

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I bought a umk3 machine which is in fairly ruff shape.

Everything works fine but the monitor has same pretty bad burn in. What would be the cheapest route to replace it?

I saw a couple converters on ebay for around $90 so I could use a standard tv with composite or possibly component but I am scared to pull the trigger on it.

The other monitors I saw were pretty pricy, like $300 and up.

I could possibly get a tube tv with composite for free where I work and try to figure out how to mount it once I got it in the cabinet.

Any ideas or suggestions would help alot.

Thanks in advance
 
The cheapest option is to find a TV with a compatible tube and swap tubes. This is also the most difficult option. Swapping in a complete TV will be difficult to make fit. The converters also tend to hurt the picture quality as well. Finding a replacement monitor, one with little or no burn, can be done and is the easiest solution. A used monitor shouldn't be too expensive depending on size needed. What size monitor is in the cabinet?
 
not sure

I am not 100% sure but I am thinking about 17-19 although I would like to put a bigger one in it and try and figure out a way to make it work. Its only going to be in my game room so Im not concerned about it being out in public. Is there anyway you could post some links to monitors that work. I was looking on ebay and they range from 3-500???
 
If the monitor is that small it most likely is a 19" model. If you'd like to put a bigger monitor in there you need to make sure it will fit; what cab is your monitor in (pics would be a big help)?

For a 19" monitor the most common replacement pieces would be a G07, WG4600, WG 4900, or WG K7000. You can likely go as large as a 25" monitor.

Ebay is a great place to buy something in a hurry but a poor place to compare prices. You need to decide what you want and then post a 'want to buy' ad in the appropriate section here. Be sure to include your location.
 
pics

The machine is def in ruff shape, only payed $250 for it tho so I thought the board was worth that. Here are some pics
 

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I hate to break the news to you... but you didn't get a very good deal. No worries though, we all go through it...

What you have there is a $100-$150 cab at best (IMHO)... as for the burn in, you're best bet is to find a compatible tube or, if you're not too keep on tube swapping, look for another $100 beater cab with a good monitor you can harvest.

What I would do is pull the boardset and look for a nice 25" monitor project cab...

...and yeah, that is an old Rampage cabinet... or a Power Drive...
 
yea looked like it was converted for sure, the plexi glass flew off and hit a car on the way down the interstate even tho I had a ratchet strap over it (thank god for insurance). But I was wanting to upgrade to a bigger monitor anyway and this was just going to be a starter project for me since I know nothing about arcades.
 
Just measure the existing monitor and see how big it is. Monitors are measured from corner to corner. It'll either be a 19" monitor or a 25". They didn't really have anything in between in arcade use. Looks like a 19" from the pictures though.

Should not be hard to find a replacement monitor - if you want to go that route. But remember that screen burn is a fact of life with arcade games. Most monitors have at least some burn. How bad is the burn on your monitor? Can you see it when you're playing the game? If it's only noticeable when it's off, then you're being too picky :). Using tinted plexi will also hide most light burn.

If you want to see real bad burn, look on these forums for pictures of monitors that were once used in Pac-Man machines...

If you want a totally burn-free monitor, then look into swapping the picture tube from a television set. I've done it in several cases when the original tube was faulty/shorted, broken, or so badly burned that you couldn't make out the game in places.

You can also sometimes fit a larger monitor into a cabinet than was originally in there. You'll have to get creative with the mounting brackets though.

-Ian
 
The burn in really isn't that bad it's jus pretty blurry and I was hoping to fix up the cosmetic work and get a 25 inch monitor.

Then I was hoping to start buying pcb boards and swapping in other games.

I know I got took on the deal considering the condition but I wanted a project to occupy my time when I'm not at work (no broadband Internet offered at home) so I seem to have a lot of free time and always loved umk3 as a kid and the machine was close by.
 
The burn in really isn't that bad it's jus pretty blurry and I was hoping to fix up the cosmetic work and get a 25 inch monitor.

Then I was hoping to start buying pcb boards and swapping in other games.

I know I got took on the deal considering the condition but I wanted a project to occupy my time when I'm not at work (no broadband Internet offered at home) so I seem to have a lot of free time and always loved umk3 as a kid and the machine was close by.


If you are looking to fix the monitor we can help. I would suggest you repalce the caps and flyback on this particular monitor in order to resolve the blurriness problem. The caps will likely solve the problem but the flyback on these old K7000s are prone to failure and replacement parts are cheap.

Are you capable of soldering? If so, Bob Roberts has all of the parts in a kit form and he is very easy to deal with. His website is a little difficult to navigate, and he doesn't take any form of online payment (check or money order only), but he really knows his stuff and has a long history of helping oout the arcade community. His website is http://www.therealbobroberts.net/ and you are looking for either his K7000 cap kit or the Flyback & cap kit (or Flyback repair kit) set.
 
The burn in really isn't that bad it's jus pretty blurry and I was hoping to fix up the cosmetic work and get a 25 inch monitor.

The blurry might be as simple as adjusting the focus control. Look at the back of the monitor, on the flyback. It's the black block that has the large wire with the suction cup on it. On the back of the flyback will be two knobs. FOCUS and SCREEN. The screen control affects the overall brightness of the picture, and the focus control adjusts the focus. So, you might just need to adjust the focus to get rid of the fuzziness.

If the knobs on the flyback are black, then you should be fine in that regard. The ones with the white knobs, however, are notorious for failing. They develop cracks in the casing, and arc, and the focus pot will flake and stop working properly. So, usually a fuzzy K7000 needs a flyback.

-Ian
 
If the knobs on the flyback are black, then you should be fine in that regard. The ones with the white knobs, however, are notorious for failing. They develop cracks in the casing, and arc, and the focus pot will flake and stop working properly. So, usually a fuzzy K7000 needs a flyback.

-Ian


From the pic he posted on page one they look black but I think they are the white knobs covered with decades of dust. That is why I suggested the whole kit-n-kaboodle...
 
for the low cost incurred, changing the flyback now might be a good idea regardless -- or it can turn into a costly and difficult repair later. especially when you consider what cool explosive stuff can happen if you don't and you suddenly have a bad day one day like I did. :)

I couldn't get over how much the picture quality improved on my blown up K7000 after rebuilding it.
 
for the low cost incurred, changing the flyback now might be a good idea regardless -- or it can turn into a costly and difficult repair later. especially when you consider what cool explosive stuff can happen if you don't and you suddenly have a bad day one day like I did. :)

I couldn't get over how much the picture quality improved on my blown up K7000 after rebuilding it.
I'm looking forward to changing out the white knob K7000 flybacks in my Double Dragon and Out Run machines. They both work fine, but I'd rather not take any chances. I'll be especially curious to see how the picture looks on Double Dragon since it's already been capped and the tube has been rejuvenated.
 
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