U5000 PSS problem?

pintech

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Hello,
I have a dead WG U5000 and I have isolated the power supply by lifting the jumper and connected the light bulb and it just flickers very dim.
Tried to check components in the PSS and found nothing so far.
Anyone have a idea of something to check? Or have a working U5000 to sell? These chassis sux!
Thanks, Scott
 
Nothing wrong with a good rebuilt U5000.

You're pretty unclear as to your symptoms. I take it you have a dead chassis?

1) What is your B+ without the lightbulb? With the lightbulb? Test at TP202.

2) Have you fully recapped this chassis yet?

3) Do you hear a "tick tick tick" when it tries to run? if so, your HOT is bad.

4) Check R765 and R760 for opens, and Q708, ZD702, and ZD705 for shorts...
 
Thanks Mod for the reply,
Yeah your right the U5000 comment It was out of frustration, I have had several cruisn's and Blitz games that has run a long time and I've never touched them.
I will check that stuff you listed and reply back.
Thanks again Mod I know you have fixed several of these chassis,
Scott
 
Hey Mod,
I put everything back together, checked those components and reflowed some joints.
I had recapped it and now I have about 178 volts at TP202.
I bought this game not working and the chassis was hacked up pretty bad.
Thanks, Scott
 
that light bulb is really bright now......you need to check U701...pin 10 for 12 vdc....I'm betting it's missing or really low.
 
Got to back up,
After I went back to the monitor I saw a broke leg on R765 and soldered it back now I have 26 - 28 volts unstable at TP202. It is also ticking.
 
Ok this is where i'm at on the U5000. I checked some more joints and components and tried the bulb test. Hooked it up and it just flickered at about 26-28 volts and ticks.
Then I accidently knocked off the ground clip to the bulb and when I hooked it back up and BAM the light comes on bright at 118 volts. Also can set the B+ at 156.
Cut it off and back on it does the same thing.
Then I fixed a jumper I could disconnect. I put it back together cut it on and the same thing took the jumper loose and then connected it back and the monitor fired up and looked pretty good.
Still have no idea what's going on.
 
B+ should be 117vdc at TP202. The Vid B+ at TP203 is about 156vdc, but that's not the regular B+, just in case you checked it wrong.

I'd replace that R765 that was broken...
 
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