U5000 popping the fuse

Blades

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Well I have a Crusin USA, and I want to try to get the original U5000 working again(after it started popping fuses, I put a LCD in for temp just for party purposes, now thats all done. I want to get the original monitor working again). The Chassis says 738-F, looks to have the Vert Mod done too it already. I can't tell if the other two had been done though. It does need a cap kit. Which I will order.

The problem is this. It had been working just fine for quite a while. Then one day, it started to smell burnt and then it just pops the fuse. But not instantly, it will work for about a hour or more, then it will pop the fuse on the monitor again. So before it burnt anything else up, I decided to take it out of the cab till I could work on it.

What should I look/test for? I would like to order all the krap in one shot, as I hate to order a little at a time as all we have out here is a Radio Shack that doesn't carry squat anymore.

Now in my defense, I have used the "Search" button. But I mostly come up with "Won't turn on" or "Ticking" or links to the update kits. But I haven't found my particular problem. So any help would be great!! Thanks!
 
If it's blowing the fuse on the monitor chassis itself, then your problem is almost definately in the power supply side of the chassis. So all the stuff to the left of the flyback, in a row behind the fuse. What sucks is it only does it after an hour, which is going to be hard to figure out. It could be a diode, resistor, or cap that gets shorted after it warms up.
 
Sweet....lol Not. Well hmmmm. Thanks for the reply! Now I have had a chance to look at this more. And other than the Vert. mod, being done years and years ago I would guess. Or maybe this is a later chassis that had the mod done to it already. I see the only thing that has been changed by "human hands" was the Q704 the HOT I believe(which as I just noticed, never had that film installed between it and the heat sink...is it supposed to be there? I have had this game for two years and it was working fine till now, so not sure if that separator was suppose to be there or if it affected anything). Also the R823 had been changed at one time and the R121(black square) had been changed. Other than that. I dont see anything else that isn't factory. Nothing looks burnt or hot. hmmm.
 
that film insulator is only needed if the HOT doesn't have a plastic body, which most hor. output transistors have anymore. If your blowing fuses, check your voltage regulator mounted to the large heat sink in the back left side of the chassis.
 
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