U5000 Blown HOT???

gobsgraham

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So I picked up a GT Complete last week that was working fine in the guys garage. I brought it home and flipped out the Complete board/HD for a 2005 so I could sell a 2005 and put the complete stuff in the cab in my basement. I powered it up and the screen when the picture came up it was scrunched and wouldn't sync. I looked at the complete PCB and realized the dip was set to standard res so stupid me flips the dip on the 2005 PCB. The screen went blank and now every time I turn it on it just ticks. After pulling the Chassis I see that the cables are plugged into the 15kHz plug and not the 25.

Did I just blow the HOT or is there a chance I blew a bunch of other stuff too?
Can a monitor support both standard and medium res? Why would it be set to standard if medium was an option?

I have read that there are 3 service kits required/available for this chassis and know that it does have the 24 ohm resistor mod but am not sure which one that falls into. Does anyone have a scan of the 3 kits so I can determine which ones may have been completed and start looking for parts to finish them off?

Thanks for any help/advice.
 
Well, I would think you probably just blew the HOT. I know on dual-res monitors like the U5000, if you move the res-plug while the monitor is powered up, you'll blow the HOT. I haven't seen it do so if you just flip the dip switch on the GT board, but if it ran too long in the wrong reolution, or was already stressed from doing so at some point, it could conceivably blow the HOT from what you did.

I'd replace the HOT (and maybe do a cap kit if it needs one), and see what you get. Also, make sure of where the res plug is, and set your board accordingly...
 
Thanks Mod. I will order some HOT's from Bob Roberts and hopefully everything fires back up.

I have set the GT to std res so when I plug it all back in, I shouldn't have any more problems with this.

Does anyone know if monitors can typically do standard or medium res and I could just change everything to medium or are the yokes normally different for each resolution.?
 
The yokes are different between standard and medium res monitors. In fact, the yokes are typically different between chassis types, not just res types.

You just got lucky to have a monitor that can be switched between the two...
 
So I bought two HOT's from Bob put one in and the game fired up. I played a round and then left it on to burn in for a few hours. I came back an hour later and the HOT is blown again.

I have confirmed that it has the HOT service kit upgrade and all components in the upgrade are good.

I am now going to do a cap kit and see if that fixes the problem but I don't want to blow my last HOT and have to order more.

Mod, I read one of your old threads that had a u5000 doing something similar where caps were good, service kits were good and it kept blowing HOT's. You had eventually swapped out the board but did you ever get back to it and figure out what was going on?

Thanks
 
Mod, I read one of your old threads that had a u5000 doing something similar where caps were good, service kits were good and it kept blowing HOT's. You had eventually swapped out the board but did you ever get back to it and figure out what was going on?

Thanks

No, but I was just talking about this with a local buddy of mine. I have too many things to do before I can ever get back to it, but I have a use for it if I can get that issue fixed. I thought about giving it to him to mess with since he has more time right now than I do....
 
No, but I was just talking about this with a local buddy of mine. I have too many things to do before I can ever get back to it, but I have a use for it if I can get that issue fixed. I thought about giving it to him to mess with since he has more time right now than I do....

Hey Mod,

Can you check L704 on your board. Mine had a 8.8K resistor on it that was shorted. I am going to replace it and see if that solves my problem. Let me know if yours is the same.
 
I don't currently have one here. You can check the service manual on WG's support page for the part listings...
 
So I bought two HOT's from Bob put one in and the game fired up. I played a round and then left it on to burn in for a few hours. I came back an hour later and the HOT is blown again.

I have confirmed that it has the HOT service kit upgrade and all components in the upgrade are good.

I am now going to do a cap kit and see if that fixes the problem but I don't want to blow my last HOT and have to order more.

Mod, I read one of your old threads that had a u5000 doing something similar where caps were good, service kits were good and it kept blowing HOT's. You had eventually swapped out the board but did you ever get back to it and figure out what was going on?

Thanks

There are TONS or reasons for the HOT to pop on a U5000.

First is bad solder/connections at the jumper connectors on the chassis (the 15k/25k resolution switch). If you check those pins you will probably see that not only are the pins on the board fried but so are the pins inside the connector. If you plan on using this monitor in medium res or std res only get rid of that stupid connector and hardwire those connections. If you still want to have the ability to change resolutions replace the pin header, the molex connector and the pins inside the molex connector (use trifurcon(sp?) pins). If you have bad connections here the SLIGHTEST jolt to the cabinet will fry the HOT. When I fix U5000's I also extend the HOT's heatsink with a heatsink from a bad power supply. That extra meat (metal) really helps the HOT stay cooler. You can also use a 2SC3688 instead of the 2SC3686 that the board came with. The 88 is a slighlty more robust part.

Second, the b+ pot... Cold solder, again...

Third bad caps.

Matt
 
The schematics and part listing call it a coil so I don't know why I have a resistor here. I will try replacing it and hopefully it won't burn up my last HOT.
 
Then that's not a resistor, but an inductor. it gets measured in Henries (or maybe millhenries). It will measure as a short when not powered, but increases in resistance as the power through it increases. It's called a choke.

Don't replace it with a resistor. I have had other monitors that this part burned up on and caused the monitor to stop working (or chirp). Replace it with the proper part...
 
I am pretty confused now as I am positive that this is a resistor??? An 8.8k 10% resistor to be exact. All documentation does clearly say that it is not though.

Does anyone else have a U5000 that they can check out L704 right in front of the HOT to see what they have there?
 

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Thanks Mod, Without you I would have replaced that with a resistor and probably blow up a bunch of other stuff. I will put this part back and power up the machine now that I have finished the cap kit. Hopefully my HOT doesn't go after a few minutes again.
 
I can't remember, but there is a recommended upgrade for the U5000 to keep HOT's from dying after a few minutes of running. I did it to one I have in storage and I still keep losing the HOT, so I'm not sure what's up with that...
 
Alright. Finished the cap kit, put the choke inductor back in and played two games of GT last night with no problems. Hopefully the blown HOT's were just a result of bad caps.
 
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