u5000 b+ setting?

cadillacman

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hey guys.. im working on a wells 27k5201 for another klover(its a u5000 right?)

anyways, he was having some issues getting the pic to look right, so he messed with the b+ pot and broke off the knob. He moved what was left of the put untill "the pic looked good". It worked like this for a few days, then blew the hot and all it would do was chirp...

Heres where i come in..

I put on a new 1k b+ pot, new hot, and did a capkit while i was at it.(some caps had a different uf value on the list than what i pulled out of the chassis...why???)


The wells manual is not very clear here..(or im dumb which could be the case)

WHERE do i connect my dmm to to test b+ on this monitor? and what shoudl it be?


Im also seeing an issue in which the height knob will only move the screen so far before it folds over on itself. It will not fill the full area. I also have no width adjustment with the remote board.... and some bowing on the sides, worst on the right side.


I would like to get my b+ set properly before i get too much deeper into it.
 
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Has this monitor been recapped? HOT replaced? Usually the chirping is caused by a bad HOT.

As for B+, it doesn't clarify which voltage reading is the B+ (usually the b+ can be found at the HOT if nowhere else), but there are voltage readings to be found here.

http://www.wellsgardner.com/pdf/Service/U5000.pdf

The first section is the part that concerns what makes the ticking sound...
 
monitor did not work when i got it.
capped it, replaced a shorted hot, replaced the b+ pot


******now it works but i need to know where to test for b+, and what voltage is acceptable?
i have that manual, i dont see a b+ specification...
 
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Well, looking at the test points, I would guess either TP202 or TP203 would be your spots.

For 15kHz the readings would be:

202 - 118.5vdc
203 - 159.0vdc

For 25kHz the readings would be:

202 - 117.2vdc
203 - 156.1vdc
 
Okay, according to the schematic, TP202 has the B+ reading, so adjust it according to the measurements I gave above...

U5000B.jpg
 
ok.. b+ set... thakas again mod..

unfortunately for me, i think it still has issues. Cross hatch pattern looks like total anus.

pic is bowed in on the sides and i can not fully adjust the height of the pic. It fills 3/4 of the tube before it just starts falling in on itself.


Im testing this using my pole position... i know video outpuit is good as my k7000 monitor in there works fine..

i have checked and rechecked sync connections, nothing has helped..


so wtf could be causing my issues?
There were a few caps in the kit that did not match up with what was on this chassis to begin with..

c117 was a 22uf/63v. Bobs list had me replace it with a 10uf/50v
c729 was a 10uf/50v(but very large- labled wrong?) Bobs list had me replace it with a 220uf/50v
c616 was a 1500uf/35v. Bobs list had me replace it with a 2200uf/35v


would any fo those off value caps be causing my issue?
if so, talk about shooting myself in the foot lol
 
heres as good as it gets..

if this is just how they are lmk so i dont chase a ghost heh
attachment.php
 

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ok.. b+ set... thakas again mod..

unfortunately for me, i think it still has issues. Cross hatch pattern looks like total anus.

pic is bowed in on the sides and i can not fully adjust the height of the pic. It fills 3/4 of the tube before it just starts falling in on itself.


Im testing this using my pole position... i know video outpuit is good as my k7000 monitor in there works fine..

i have checked and rechecked sync connections, nothing has helped..


so wtf could be causing my issues?
There were a few caps in the kit that did not match up with what was on this chassis to begin with..

c117 was a 22uf/63v. Bobs list had me replace it with a 10uf/50v
c729 was a 10uf/50v(but very large- labled wrong?) Bobs list had me replace it with a 220uf/50v
c616 was a 1500uf/35v. Bobs list had me replace it with a 2200uf/35v


would any fo those off value caps be causing my issue?
if so, talk about shooting myself in the foot lol

if you still have those caps handy, you could try putting them back in to see if they change the picture any.

According to the schematics:

C117 - 22uF 63v
C729 - 220uF 50v
C616 - 1500uF 35v
 
switched those two back.... same..
found a additional jumper hear that external resistor thats supposed to be swapped when you do a res swap( which this guy did recently) swapped that jumper, same


I think im going to have him pick it up, run it in his game, and see what he gets.

mabye my pp just isnt made to work properly with a dual res 27" heh
 
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