Two wg25k7184 questions

Ice Cream Jonsey

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Thanks to Google Groups being worthless, I haven't been able to find any info on either issue. But here's what I've got:

I have a 25" WG25k7184 monitor running jrok's Williams board. The monitor is displaying a picture that is just a tiny bit too wide. Of the 8 pots the thing has, none effect horizontal size. It seems like there is a width coil that affects that. However, I've tried to manipulate it and it's had no effect. I guess there is a plastic tool or something that people use to change adjust those things? I'm amazed that using a torq screwdriver of approximate size won't affect the coil even though it's clearly turning.

Secondly, every few minutes the entire display will wig out. It's frustrating because I don't even know what to call this, much less search on it. I would describe it as the vertical hold going bad for a split-second. It seems to happen after the monitor's been running for 10+ minutes. Is there a name for this? Has anyone else experienced something like this?

Thanks in advance.
 
Argh, though the thing had been running a lot over the last couple of weeks, it just died on me. So now I'm not getting any kind of picture at all. Crap crap crap.
 
OK, I am a total monitor newb. A few questions:

- I found one flowchart for monitor repair that was sort of general in nature. It suggested checking replacing a fuse first. Does the 7184 board have a fuse somewhere?

- Would performing a cap kit on this be of any use when no picture is coming up, or is that sort of like washing your car when it won't start? It looks like Bob Roberts has cap kits for K7000s which are listed as compatible with 71xx monitors.

- There are three pots called red green and blue "cut-off". I have no idea what they do. Any help? When I was trying to fix the vertical "flashing" thing in the OP I mucked about with all the pots I could find, like a retard. I shouldn't have messed with them, of course, but I guess no time like the present is good towards learning what they are supposed to do.

At this point I am not even sure if the monitor is getting power, although I am guessing I can discern that with a multimeter.
 
I have the same model in one of my dedicated Neo Geo cabs, and I am fairly familiar with it. It is a nice looking monitor if you tend to it properly.

First of all, download the WG-K7000 manual here.

http://www.hardmvs.com/manuals/wg-k7000.pdf

Yes, it does have a fuse. It can be a bit difficult to get to if you have the monitor installed, as it sits on the edge of the board closest to the tube. Before you begin to troubleshoot or mess with anything else, change that fuse, and test it out. Just be careful while poking around in there.

If that doesn't solve the problem, you need to look at the condition of your flyback. Visually examine it for any cracks, stress marks, stray carbon, or bulging. These monitors are known for having crappy stock flybacks, and in time, eventually they will fail on you, occasionally spectacularly. It is not an expensive part to replace, but you should have somebody help you if that turns out to be the problem and you are doing it for the first time. It requires some fine soldering skills, and discharging the tube before you work on it.

As for the cut off pots, you generally don't want to touch them. Their purpose is to effectively give you a clean "gray" calibration on your monitor. Rather than explain the entire process here, check out this link for more info:

http://www.arcadecollecting.com/info/Adjusting_monitor_color.txt

One last thing. I would recommend getting a remote board for your 7184. It is a small array of pots that sits up in the front of your cab, connected to the monitor by way of a molex connector and set of wires. The model you would be looking for is a p802 remote board. This will allow you to adjust most of the monitor options without having to play around in the back of the cab.

Good luck! If you have any other 7184 questions, I'll do my best to answer them.


OK, I am a total monitor newb. A few questions:

- I found one flowchart for monitor repair that was sort of general in nature. It suggested checking replacing a fuse first. Does the 7184 board have a fuse somewhere?

- Would performing a cap kit on this be of any use when no picture is coming up, or is that sort of like washing your car when it won't start? It looks like Bob Roberts has cap kits for K7000s which are listed as compatible with 71xx monitors.

- There are three pots called red green and blue "cut-off". I have no idea what they do. Any help? When I was trying to fix the vertical "flashing" thing in the OP I mucked about with all the pots I could find, like a retard. I shouldn't have messed with them, of course, but I guess no time like the present is good towards learning what they are supposed to do.

At this point I am not even sure if the monitor is getting power, although I am guessing I can discern that with a multimeter.
 
Thanks, man. I found the fuse and picked up some 2 amp, 250 volt fuses today. Actually, I picked up some fast and slow blow ones, and somehow lost the frigging slow blow ones on the way home from Radio Shack. That's the kind of day I have been having.

It popped the fast blow fuse immediately. Sounds like inspecting the flyback is next.
 
Google Groups search is back up. I read that a thing to try is to disconnect the degaussing coil, to make sure it's not shorting. I tried that, but same thing.

Arcadeshop lists the Wells Gardner 7000 flyback for $20. It seems like the flybacks are not that great with this kind of monitor - that's priced low enough where I'd just pick up a new one, unless someone recommends a different course of action?
 
I'd suggest completely rebuilding the monitor. This includes the flyback, HOT, and caps. Bob Roberts has a complete kit available on his website. BTW, your monitor is a standard WG K7000 if you have any questions.

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/

Found it. Yeah, I'm going to order that tonight. You're the &%$*ing man, thanks. :)

Here is a thing I noticed: I could swear the coin lights on this thing used to be lit. They are dead now as well. This is a Dynamo cab - is it possible the power supply to this thing is wonky? I know the board itself is fine because I hear the sound the jrok plays when it boots, so it's apparently getting power just fine. But that's odd that the coin lights and monitor died at the same time.
 
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