Two Recently Aquired Monitors

rikitheshadow

Active member

Donor 2011
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
793
Reaction score
36
I just got me a new little haul today from a craigslist ad. Guy was selling a Virtual Fighter cabinet that was fairly well intact besides a few adjustments and cracks filled in for security from probably tampering. No water damage, the game works fine from what I'm told, and the only problem is the monitor. Only a $100! (I'll post pictures when i get those transferred from my father's camera......)

It's a 25" WG K7501, a medium resolution board i would suppose as this game is a medium resolution game. (I ID'd it by locating the small board that rests above and near the flyback). He said that it was sparking or popping in a very serious manner so he just cut off the power cables and left it off. (He's confirmed to me that he had worked on this stuff before, but there isn't much demand for it now and he's older). I have yet to confirm where the damage or uhmmm well problem is, but I took time to notice the flyback has white knobs...............oye! Anyways, I unloaded it out of the cabinet before shoving everything else in storage and brought this baby home to do some repairs/testing. (Definitely going to need help on this one roflmao). Sadly once I had gotten the monitor protection glass off I noticed some slight burn in on this Zenith tube (A63ADG25X). You can see the game over text in the middle slightly, and a little bit of the health bars in the top half.

On a second note, the man was nice enough to give me a free 25" tube with metal frame, no chassis but I figure that won't be hard to fill. The Metal frame was marked with a Sharp Image sticker on the back. They have some awkward aquadag clip on the side instead of a bare threaded wire strapped along the back. The tube's manufacturer sticker has been torn off beyond reading, but I was able to locate the tube type sticker under the metal framing. It's a A63ADT10X if I read that correctly.....had to get a flash light to get under that metal framing......

First on the to do list is to get the one with the chassis working. Which at this time I'd think it would be best to replace the flyback first. Then maybe a cap kit, and If any of ya'll could run me the numbers and components I should test first I would greatly appreciate that! They really are quite nice looking besides a bit of dust and dirt, no scratches, but like I said the WG has a slight burn in.

I'll get pictures up when I get my camera back. I set on this adventure thinking I would need my camera, so I charged it the night before. And when I set out the next day, I forgot the battery on the charger. So.....i borrowed my Dad's camera, but it uses a proprietary USB connector that....well I don't have on me........and NOW I left my camera at my folks place............................................................................................................
 
Last edited:
There doesn't appear to be any damage so I'm going to perform a few continuity checks on fuses and crap....lol I'll check the diodes and resistors like on my last one which was a K7901.

There are no wires attached to the P1, P2, or P3 on that tiny board above the flyback....?
The flyback appears to be fine on the outside, no cracks or goo oozing out.

It appears this board has already been recapped cause the caps look bright and no bursting. Plus the glue that holds most of the factory installed ones has been torn off.

And this board was resting really on nothing to prevent shorts................!!!!! I mean there are tiny little plastic rings around some of these prongs on the metal frame under where the chassis rests, but I can't that out! I mean the board jiggles a lot in its spot.
Anyone know of a place to get those plastic chassis board holders?
 
mustve been some hack job putting that in there, those originallt came with nanao dual res
monitors..

the k7000 sticky may or may not help ya, the med res k7000s can sometimes be a far cry from the std res counterparts.
 
mustve been some hack job putting that in there, those originallt came with nanao dual res
monitors..

the k7000 sticky may or may not help ya, the med res k7000s can sometimes be a far cry from the std res counterparts.

Actually just sent a message to the guy to confirm some details. He said the original died, but just that. I'm still confirming if the chassis was just swapped, because the chassis matches the frame on the tube, but he believes that Tube doesn't match that chassis.

Its all really confusing......................
 
The 7501 is NOT like the 7000's, and the sticky will be no help. The 7500 is very similar to the 7400, U2000, and U5000, and they have common issues, usually.

I don't usually find a lot of bad flybacks with the K7501, so I wouldn't do that unless you have to. Start by checking the fuse to see if it is good, then check the HOT (black lead on center leg and red lead on outer legs). If they look good, install the cap kit and see what happens. Look it over for cold solder. Check the neck board for cold solder or burnt traces on the drive transistors. Check U601 (vertical IC) for shorts. If you find any, you'll have loss of vert deflection, and you check D302 for a short and R303 for an open.

If you do all of this and it's still dead, report back...
 
Actually just sent a message to the guy to confirm some details. He said the original died, but just that. I'm still confirming if the chassis was just swapped, because the chassis matches the frame on the tube, but he believes that Tube doesn't match that chassis.

Its all really confusing......................

The tube isn't important - the yoke is. What is the number on the yoke? That will tell us if it's for a K7501...
 
The tube isn't important - the yoke is. What is the number on the yoke? That will tell us if it's for a K7501...

The yoke reads...
9A2911-001
DOK-8924T

Vertical Deflection is 10.3 ohms
Horizontal Deflection is 1.4 ohms
 
The yoke reads...
9A2911-001
DOK-8924T

Vertical Deflection is 10.3 ohms
Horizontal Deflection is 1.4 ohms

Yes, that is the wrong yoke. That is the yoke for a 25" K7000 chassis.

How positive are you that you have a K7501 chassis?
 
Yes, that is the wrong yoke. That is the yoke for a 25" K7000 chassis.

How positive are you that you have a K7501 chassis?

Just the frame work, all the stickers on the frame. Not the chassis itself.

Chasis is date stamped as W.G.E.C. 1986......and some other markings on the board itself

85X0216-001E

P538

Neckboard is marked EIA 343 3

204-2203-01



I'm pretty sure all this stuff was all swapped out with the wrong parts
 
P538 = 25" K7000 chassis. So, you have a K7000 chassis with a K7000 yoke.

BUT - it sounds like you have a standard-res chassis. Is there a label on top of the bracket over the flyback? If so, does it say anything like 7191 or 7197?
 
P538 = 25" K7000 chassis. So, you have a K7000 chassis with a K7000 yoke.

BUT - it sounds like you have a standard-res chassis. Is there a label on top of the bracket over the flyback? If so, does it say anything like 7191 or 7197?

No label, but ink stamped with 40301-03

And as I said earlier there is a small board on top of that bracket at the where the 2 sync's meet labeled
85X0314
P609

screwed on to the sync, but nothing wired to it......looks like someone clipped the wires out of it on connectors P1, P2, P3
 
I think I know the board you mean. I saw one on a 7191 last week. Same board, but the wires were cut off. I don't know why it is there. Monitor worked fine though...
 
I think I know the board you mean. I saw one on a 7191 last week. Same board, but the wires were cut off. I don't know why it is there. Monitor worked fine though...

So basically, i guess this game's old monitor failed. Idiots who tried to replace it got it a 25 inch standard resolution monitor with a K7000 chassis and yoke and plugged it into a Medium Resolution game......................this is all just a guess still really

but guy said this one "sparked up something mad" and well the 2amp fuse is blow, but the diodes seem to check out, including all the large resistors seem to be within tolerance
haven't checked anything else though

My first question is can I convert this tube into a medium resolution if I got a yoke with chassis? Or should I even care to lol........

Second question
There is no label on the yoke on my so called Sharp Image tube setup...except an ink stamp that says HPY9D

Vertical Deflection 5.4 ohms
Horizontal Deflection 1.5 ohms

Any clues?
 
Last edited:
I'll have to look tomorrow on your Sharp Image tube.

As for your K7000 - if they hooked up a standard-res tube to a medium-res game, it's possible they overloaded the horizontal oscillator and blew the HOT, maybe C38. You could check to see if the flyback has any cracks in it. IC4 may be shorted.

The other problem is that a K7500 does not need an iso, but the K7000 does. If they hooked it up without an iso, then they probably blew IC4, D20, D21, and maybe R103...
 
I'll have to look tomorrow on your Sharp Image tube.

As for your K7000 - if they hooked up a standard-res tube to a medium-res game, it's possible they overloaded the horizontal oscillator and blew the HOT, maybe C38. You could check to see if the flyback has any cracks in it. IC4 may be shorted.

The other problem is that a K7500 does not need an iso, but the K7000 does. If they hooked it up without an iso, then they probably blew IC4, D20, D21, and maybe R103...

I haven't checked IC4 yet, but D20, D21, and R103 check out. (Comparing to my last monitor issue)

Thank You in advance for anything you can pull up on the Sharp Image tube.

Meanwhile I'm going to look for a 7500 chassis or something similar if they has yoke!
 
Last edited:
I'll have to look tomorrow on your Sharp Image tube.

Just a heads up, the tube neck does not have convergence rings, but the neck seems shorter than most. Like the yoke doesn't have wedges, but some tape wrapped around the neck area (not that gauze looking tape used on some for grip). And instead of having that metal ring tightened with the screw on the back end of the yoke, it has a plastic ring with a sticker on it. Has a little warning label saying "Do not attempt removing bonded yoke....blah blah" And it seems the tape wraps all the way down the neck to the other end of that plastic ring where the convergence rings would normally be sitting. But still some bare neck up until the pins where you would normally spot the neck glow. And the aquadag wire is instead a small metal piece with dozen forks rubbing into it on the top.......right corner if your facing the backside.

This tube is weird to me.
 
As for your K7000 - if they hooked up a standard-res tube to a medium-res game, it's possible they overloaded the horizontal oscillator and blew the HOT, maybe C38. You could check to see if the flyback has any cracks in it. IC4 may be shorted.

The other problem is that a K7500 does not need an iso, but the K7000 does. If they hooked it up without an iso, then they probably blew IC4, D20, D21, and maybe R103...

IC 4 checks out fine, no shorts.

Not sure exactly how to check the HOT so I ran a diode check, jumps everywhere, but continuity checks out on it.

If I get the re-wiring done I may hook it up to an ISO and game and test it.....if it doesn't spark..........
 
I explained how back in post #5. You should get a reading between .400 and .700

Ya, the HOT checks out alright. So i figure this thing blew it's fuse before it blew anything else.


I got a pictures to upload now of this stuff. The first one is gonna be that of the Sharp Image tube with the mystery yoke.

DSCF0337.jpg

DSCF0338.jpg

DSCF0340.jpg
 
Pictures Continued

Here is the K7000 which i thought was a K7501 because of the labeling.

DSCF0331.jpg

DSCF0336.jpg

DSCF0332.jpg

DSCF0335.jpg
 
Back
Top Bottom