Two Neotec 2701 Chassis - Two Different RBGEV Molex Connectors?

divingbuddy

Well-known member

Donor 10 years: 2013-2022
Joined
Nov 19, 2010
Messages
2,650
Reaction score
669
Location
Utah
Two Neotec 2701 Chassis - Two Different RBGEV Molex Connectors?

I just purchased a Neotec NT-2701 chassis with a date code of February 2004. I have a NT-2701 chassis in my Gauntlet Legends with a date code of September 1998.

Most all molex connectors are matching except the RBG molex connector. The 2004 chassis molex connector is larger and a different pin configuration. The color coding on the wires are the exact same scheme i.e. yellow with white stripe, yellow with red stripe and so on for all five wires.

I am trying to identify the 2004 chassis type. What arcade games use this type of molex connectors?

Can I modify my wire harness by splicing the 2004 harness to my 1998 harness, match the color scheme of each wire?

I would rather not hack my original wire harness, but if the molex connector cannot be adapted without modifying the harness, then my only choice is to modify it to make it work.

Please see the attatched pics for the different molex connectors,

Thanks for any advice or comments,
Johnny
 

Attachments

  • Neotec 1998 edited.jpg
    Neotec 1998 edited.jpg
    34.1 KB · Views: 33
  • Neotec 1998a edited.jpg
    Neotec 1998a edited.jpg
    43.2 KB · Views: 39
  • Neotec 1998b edited.jpg
    Neotec 1998b edited.jpg
    40 KB · Views: 33
  • Neotec 2004a edited.jpg
    Neotec 2004a edited.jpg
    25.4 KB · Views: 38
  • Neotec 2004 edited.jpg
    Neotec 2004 edited.jpg
    50.4 KB · Views: 30
Did you have any problems with the video on the monitor?

I just need to find an adptor that is the same pin configuration as what is on the chassis board. I have both male and female molex connectors for the 2004 chassis, not is just a matter of getting the right male molex connector for the 1998 chassis.

Thanks,
Johnny
 
I did not have a problem with the video, but I traced the wires before building it instead of trusting the color coding. I don't remember if the color coding was standardized between the two.

I don't understand your second paragraph. If you'd like you can simply splice the wires together, or as I mentioned earlier build an adaptor so you don't end up hacking anything you currently have installed. I believe these larger connectors were standard on 2000+ cabinets, especially cockpit configurations.
 
The six pin matrixed connectors are Tyco/AMP brand "Universal Mate N Lock". I think these were used in San Francisco Rush games.

There are two versions of the Neotec 2700 series monitors. The way to tell what version you have is to look at the component side of the neckboard.

One version will say, "Li-Chin". The other version will say, "Full Family". I have scanned the manuals of both versions in Paperport file format.
 
I found a Molex 09-67-1083, 8C102.156 KK WAF , Series 2461, 10 Pin male connector and soldered the wires in the same sequence. I did not have to cut any wires.

I installed the chassis, connected all of the other molex connectors, powered up the game.

The boot process went normal, but the video is now only a pinpoint in the middle of the screen.

I am now doing research to find out what might be the problem causing the video to point in only one spot. I don't want to run the tube in this mode for any amount of time because I don't want to burn a spot in the middle of the tube (to many bad memories of my Tempest tube and the problems that I had with that game), anyway, if anyone can help me out with my current issue it would be greatly appreciated,

thanks,
Johnny
 

Attachments

  • Molex 09-67-1083, 8C102.156 KK WAF , Series 2461, 10 Pin.jpg
    Molex 09-67-1083, 8C102.156 KK WAF , Series 2461, 10 Pin.jpg
    16.7 KB · Views: 8
Did you connect the horizontal and vertical yoke to the chassis? If those aren't connected the video will be a small spot on the middle of the screen.
 
Just to let everyone know, always recheck all of your connections after removing them from their respective positions. I found one connection not making contact and causing my problem. The main rbg Molex connection.

I have the game running fine, but my original problem was a pincushion and vertical edge position issue that has now been resolved.

My original 1998 chassis had no picture and played blind. I took my chassis to a local game distributor and repair business. I had asked several people where I could take my chassis locally to get fixed. A business was recommended to me for the good service and qualified technicians. The chassis was fixed to a point that the picture was working, but a pincushion and vertical edge problem could not be fixed using the controllers. After several weeks and numerous phone calls, the technician along with the tech support people from Neotec came to the conclusion that my tube was misaligned, causing the vertical problem and some other parts were causing pincushion issue. They recommended that I would need a new tube and my pincushion problems they could not actually find the exact cause of the problem, again I needed to replace the tube and I might as well replace the entire chassis while I was getting a new tube.

So in conclusion, I tried several fixes to get my Gauntlet Legends working again. Patience is your best friend, don't give up and keep trying.

What I did to the chassis:
1 - cap kit
2 - replaced the fly back
3 - replaced the HOT
4 - purchased a 2700 chassis, found one on Ebay for a cheap price (working) and used parts from it just see if other capacitors, not in the cap kit, might fix the problem. This helped, but did not fix the problem.
5 – purchased a working 2701 chassis, found one on Ebay for a good low price. This chassis was newer than the original. Found out that the monitor Molex connector was different than the original.
6 - purchased a male Molex strip and made my own adaptor (see photos), soldered the wires and made an attempt to put heat shrink tubing over the connections, try not to melt or burn the wire sheathing and only the heat shrink tubing (practice makes perfect!).
I flipped the power switch on the game waiting for sparks, smoke or fire, nothing happened, then the bootup sequence started and got the "boing" sound. The system boot sequence screen appeared making the checks for loading the game. The picture came on and all I had to do was adjust the screen settings and I now have a beautiful picture and all of my issues have been fixed!!!!!
Good luck to everyone who might attempt to fix their Neotec monitor problems, perseverance pays off.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1078 edited.jpg
    DSCF1078 edited.jpg
    44 KB · Views: 25
  • DSCF1085 edited.jpg
    DSCF1085 edited.jpg
    48.5 KB · Views: 26
  • DSCF1087 edited.jpg
    DSCF1087 edited.jpg
    54.7 KB · Views: 28
Back
Top Bottom