Two CPS2 boards in one cab

bookoute

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First off I am guilty of trolling (sorry) but all my questions generally get answered with existing threads. I have a Tower of Doom CPS2 and have recently aquired a Mystara. I dont have room for another cab and think it would be kinda cool to keep them in one cab. Is there a multijamma that has a kick harness adapter out there or does anybody have any other solutions? Thx
 
You would need two kick harnesses. You should be able to wire each to the extra fire buttons without any problems as long as you use the same tabs on the microswitches for the ground. If you do have a problem then you can put some diodes on the signal wires.
 
First off I am guilty of trolling (sorry) but all my questions generally get answered with existing threads. I have a Tower of Doom CPS2 and have recently aquired a Mystara. I dont have room for another cab and think it would be kinda cool to keep them in one cab. Is there a multijamma that has a kick harness adapter out there or does anybody have any other solutions? Thx

I don't know of a jamma switcher that has a kick harness adapter other than the one mark was going to be building. Generally what folks do (and I'm going to be doing this when i put the switcher in) is splice the kick harnesses together. Usually this is done with diodes (I've heard 1N4004 quoted a lot, it's what I'm using) otherwise you can wind up with a problem where a button will register as constantly pressed. With the diodes in line between the connector on the board and the splice point you don't have that problem. It's extra work, but it's worked for a lot of folks, I know xenomorp got all the mk's running in 1 cab with that, w/o the diodes low kick was registering as pressed constantly.

*e* Image stolen from a thread at another forum I can't track down at the moment.
 

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Stupid question, but here goes anyway: CPS2 games are a SNAP to swap. Just pop off the B board, pop on the new one, move on your way. Is there a reason you don't want to do this?

When I got into the hobby, I was thinking "man, I'm going to have a 6 in 1 JAMMA switcher, and i'm going to have a 4 slot neo geo" etc etc. Turns out, I really usually only want to play one game, and I have that game in the cab, and I play it. When I want to change, I just swap the boards. For me, it's not a big deal.

If it is a big deal for you, then please carry on and good luck with the switcher. :)
 
I agree with it being easy to swap pcb's especially CPS2, but I want to do it with my MK machines simply because getting in and out of the machine is a pain in the ass. That and there is a little more work involved with MK and MKII pcbs.

If you have a cab that you can access from the front I would be less inclined but if not I think a switcher is a great idea, if you have the room for 2 cps2 boards, then SOB's are big.
 
I guess I am a glutton for punishment. It seems like a cool idea to have both Dungeons and Dragons games in one cab. I can access the cab easily (as of now) and it is easy to switch CPS2 boards. I doubt its worth the $120-$160 it may cost me as well. I found some cheaper solutions (http://www.arcademvs.com/ARCADE_ACESSERIOR.htm) but I am a bit skeptical about those. has anybody had any experience with these particular "2 in 1" switchers?
 
I guess I am a glutton for punishment. It seems like a cool idea to have both Dungeons and Dragons games in one cab. I can access the cab easily (as of now) and it is easy to switch CPS2 boards. I doubt its worth the $120-$160 it may cost me as well. I found some cheaper solutions (http://www.arcademvs.com/ARCADE_ACESSERIOR.htm) but I am a bit skeptical about those. has anybody had any experience with these particular "2 in 1" switchers?

It IS a cool idea, and don't let me deter you... I just think you might be putting a lot of work and money into something for little real benefit from my own personal point of view.

To contribute, I've heard bad things about the remote control switchers, although I can't remember for the life of me what they were.
 
It IS a cool idea, and don't let me deter you... I just think you might be putting a lot of work and money into something for little real benefit from my own personal point of view.

To contribute, I've heard bad things about the remote control switchers, although I can't remember for the life of me what they were.

More specifically, I've heard a bunch of folks who got those yplus 2-1s saying that the majority of the ones they ordered flat out didn't work when recieved. Some were able to be fixed with a little work, some had to be returned. Not sure if the 6-1 is the same that jammaboards was selling (remote looks different), but the keyword is *was*, outside of clay cowgill's switcher (which I've heard good things about but it's spendy) they seem to be about the only game in town unless you go hunting for someone selling one of the ones that aren't being made anymore. Even the jammaboards 6-1 is going to need some modification for my purposes, though, as it doesn't carry the -5 lead for some reason. There's a good thread around here about how to get the mods done (I think it was xenomorp's, his youtube has the vids) thankfully, so when I can get some time the mod looks easy to do.
 
Even the jammaboards 6-1 is going to need some modification for my purposes, though, as it doesn't carry the -5 lead for some reason. There's a good thread around here about how to get the mods done (I think it was xenomorp's, his youtube has the vids) thankfully, so when I can get some time the mod looks easy to do.

Yeah, that won't be an issue for the CPS2 boards, but I do remember seeing the thread and the mod to carry -5v videos. Very informative, even if you don't end up going that route. I learned a lot.
 
Man, Im the one who created that crappy diode picture to hook up all 4 MKs in one machine. I sent it to someone as a quick howto and I never expected to see that again. Im almost ashamed that it looks that bad!! If you need help let me know, especially with the two in one switchers since I'v modded those as well..
 
Man, Im the one who created that crappy diode picture to hook up all 4 MKs in one machine. I sent it to someone as a quick howto and I never expected to see that again. Im almost ashamed that it looks that bad!! If you need help let me know, especially with the two in one switchers since I'v modded those as well..

No shame, doesn't need to be a DaVinci, just has to get the info across which it does well. Putting the diode type on it saved me some failed experimentation, so thank you for making it. :) Any suggestion to the button line junction, i.e. some kind of connector or just twist and solder for getting them all together that'd be best? I can think of a couple things, all of them messy, so if you've you've got a more elegant solution than my current lines of thinking ("butcher the piss out of it") I'd love to hear it.
 
Does anyone know of a good place to pick the diodes at all? Online anyway, I really don't feel like driving.

You can get 1N4004's here, he's even running a KLOV 15% discount on orders (mentioned on the front page of the site):

http://www.pacmandotcom.com/node/196

Damn, looks like he dropped the price on them through the floor since I ordered, I think I paid about 0.12/ea. Nice guy to deal with and he shipped them very quickly.
 
You can get 1N4004's here, he's even running a KLOV 15% discount on orders (mentioned on the front page of the site):

http://www.pacmandotcom.com/node/196

Damn, looks like he dropped the price on them through the floor since I ordered, I think I paid about 0.12/ea. Nice guy to deal with and he shipped them very quickly.

Awsome, thanks!
 
The games DO have different pinouts.

One has the Player 1+2 fourth buttons on the Jamma Conector... On the other board, they are on the "Kick" Harness
 
Are you speaking of the Mystara and Tower of Doom?

Yeah..

I am pretty sure that they use slightly different pinouts. at least they do on the 18-1.

You can do them with the same wiring scheme though...

Just tie the P1+P2 4th buttons to both the Jamma connector and the Kick Harness.
 
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