Twilight Zone Resets - Killing me ...

PensFan66

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Ok, Im redoing my TZ after it being in my Parents basement for years (Dad liked to play, and sadly he passed away last month) - So its in my collection and Im going over the machine.

So, often if you press both flippers it will reset... (No eye rolling, lol) - I have replaced the BR1/BR2, and the Capacitor - The system settings are set for low voltage, I have tried multiple outlets (One resets all the time, and others let you do it randomly - But no outlets work 100%).

Any other Ideas? It may well be all the power around my house, but it did this at my parents house as well.

Thanks!
Scott
 
Have you actually put your DMM on the outlets to test the voltage levels?

I started to get resets on some of my WPC games this summer and to my surprise during the day when I and everyone else in the area was using the AC full blast I was getting 110-113 volts instead of the 120-121 volts it would read in the winter, or off-peak in the summer. That's quite a drop.

You have to know where you are starting from.

Have you actually put your DMM on the 5v test points on the power driver board and the CPU board? That's the way to know what is happening on the boards.

The cable between the power driver board and the CPU board may also have issues, at the connectors or the headers.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

RussMyers
 
Ok, Im redoing my TZ after it being in my Parents basement for years (Dad liked to play, and sadly he passed away last month) - So its in my collection and Im going over the machine.

So, often if you press both flippers it will reset... (No eye rolling, lol) - I have replaced the BR1/BR2, and the Capacitor - The system settings are set for low voltage, I have tried multiple outlets (One resets all the time, and others let you do it randomly - But no outlets work 100%).

Any other Ideas? It may well be all the power around my house, but it did this at my parents house as well.

Thanks!
Scott


I've actually had more problems with the connectors like J101 causing this issue than the BR's and caps. Several times I thought the BR's fixed it but it'd come back a week or two later (the real culprit was J101 which was getting reseated when I removed the power board, so it'd work for a few days). Try inspecting/replacing those and see if it helps.

Wade
 
I've been noticing more and more reset problems being caused by the ribbon cables getting loose and making bad contact, not to say all the time but many. Definitely a problem in the summer when the power companies lower the output. Measure the wall socket but reseat or replace all the ribbon cables.
Ron
 
Check the "Z" connector and the plug/pins on the solenoid drive board on the right hand side under the DMD power board. J104 (I think).

The Z connector can dick you up also.
 
Thanks all - Ive checked the connectors and I seem pretty good - So I also tested the voltages and the line is 120, the aux AC Outlet in the machine is 119 with power off, but once powered, without any playing - it goes to 116.2 or so. I also noticed that LED 2 is light on the Power Board, but LED 3 tends to fade in and out. If I watch that during game play and I hit the flippers when LED3 is on, it resets. According to the Wiki when 2 and 3 are on, its a sign of low voltage.

I tried 3 outlets, all different circuits - no luck .....

Do I need to call my buddy from Nyseg?
 
Isn't there a resister mod you can do to bump up the voltage on the 5V just a little? You cut a trace and install a resister in line and it ups the 5V line .2V ish.
 
I thought I read somewhere that a minimum of 117Vac is required?

Either way repin J101 this alone fix 2 of my pins

Thanks all - Ive checked the connectors and I seem pretty good - So I also tested the voltages and the line is 120, the aux AC Outlet in the machine is 119 with power off, but once powered, without any playing - it goes to 116.2 or so. I also noticed that LED 2 is light on the Power Board, but LED 3 tends to fade in and out. If I watch that during game play and I hit the flippers when LED3 is on, it resets. According to the Wiki when 2 and 3 are on, its a sign of low voltage.

I tried 3 outlets, all different circuits - no luck .....

Do I need to call my buddy from Nyseg?
 
I saw that "hack" in the Wiki and if I get desperate Ill try that :)

So to avoid a hack Ill try a repin on J101 - Seems like the best thing to try for now.

Also - in Lancaster?? Im in Depew! Small world!
 
fix

My TZ reset on me all the time and was a real pain, I bought the MAD Amus. Rotten Dog power board ($270)and all my problems went away. Machine has been running perfect ever since. Also I added LED kit to get rid of heat and to save GI circiuts from getting burnt. They were getting fried so I have replaced all the connects. Get out your schematics for the power board and make sure all your connectors (go by looking at wires color and number sequence) are in the correct places. This might sound dumb but Ive seen connectors labled wrong and in wrong places on several of my machines when I got them.
 
Thanks all - Ive checked the connectors and I seem pretty good -

Seem pretty good, does not mean they are indeed good.

If this machine is all original, then these conenctors are 18 years old and should still be suspect.
 
yes

exactly, well said. I have never seen a older williams pin that didnt have cooked GI wires, sockets or connectors. The new power board I have doesnt put out near the heat as the old one. If your not willing to spent $270 on the board and replace connectors on a high end machine then sell it.

My 2cents
 
Funny...I didn't even notice that!

I have a Funhouse at the office that got BR2\C4 replaced (with jumper wires) and it still rebooted. I pinned J101 and it's been running every since. It also fixed my White Water (7 years ago) without replacing a $270 board

I saw that "hack" in the Wiki and if I get desperate Ill try that :)

So to avoid a hack Ill try a repin on J101 - Seems like the best thing to try for now.

Also - in Lancaster?? Im in Depew! Small world!
 
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Try checking the diodes on the power board and on the flipper solenoids. It sounds like you have a short of some kind.
 
Thanks again for the answeres - I have no issues buying a $300 board if required - The playfield is in A+ shape, slot has been re-welded to stop the breaking issue, all plastics good, etc .... So if I have to, I will.

I would like to repin j101 - Is there a good source for the required parts?

I think Ill repin my Addams as well - Both have that issue, Addams less so - But on the same outlet I can plug in my Thatre of Magic and it plays great, no resets.
 
Yes, but buying a 300 dollar board is almost NEVER required. I agree, just looking at the connections aren't enough. Especially on the Z connector. Remove them from both ends and reseat them.
 
Thanks again for the answeres - I have no issues buying a $300 board if required - The playfield is in A+ shape, slot has been re-welded to stop the breaking issue, all plastics good, etc .... So if I have to, I will.

No, dont ever buy a new board! All can be fixed with the right person! I'm not bashing anyone here or the suggestion, I just feel strongly about keeping original boards.

If you can't fix it, send it here. http://webpages.charter.net/coinopcauldron/Index.html Also click on board repairs...

Clive is top notch, professinal, and professional repairs and has the experience to back it up!

Besides myself, I don't trust anyone with my boards now! I've had two different people mess up my boards, that said they were repair people. Each time, they fixed the main issue or said it was fixed but when I got it back, it had another issue. You get what you pay for!

If you get a replacement aftermarket board, your machine now does not have the original board set. Sure you can keep the old one, but what good does that do unless it works.

So in the end, don't spend $300 on a replacement board, send it to Clive and he will fix it for you.
 
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I bought mine from mouser.

Think the pins are $.04 and the housing like $.50

Thanks again for the answeres - I have no issues buying a $300 board if required - The playfield is in A+ shape, slot has been re-welded to stop the breaking issue, all plastics good, etc .... So if I have to, I will.

I would like to repin j101 - Is there a good source for the required parts?

I think Ill repin my Addams as well - Both have that issue, Addams less so - But on the same outlet I can plug in my Thatre of Magic and it plays great, no resets.
 
If you need parts.....


http://fwd4.me/09ML

Great to deal with and really good prices.

When I get a game and shop it I always replace the bridge rectifiers, caps and at the minimum re-flow all pin headers. If something it toasty it gets replaced. You could also have cap C4 or a bad voltage regulator. All are inexpensive parts and easy to replace with the proper tools.
 
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