Twilight Zone bridge diverter problem

The violet wire with a yellow stripe is daisy-chained to a further solenoid after the diverter solenoid, as you suggested it might be. All other solenoids work fine so I am looking at the violet wire with the green stripe - a much thinner wire which goes back to J130. I can't see any damage to it (but it is hidden for a fair bit of the time in the loom). I have pulled off the idc connector and will check/clean the pins and report back later.
 
Check the violet and green striped wire and how it's seated into the idc. These wires can wiggle loose in the idc with vibrations and heat. A idc tool is best to reseat the wires into the idc, but a small flathead screw driver can suffice. Check the solder on the header pin associated with that wire on the power driver board. Sometimes, just reseating the wire into the idc connector and/or reseating the connector itself can solve the issue. All in all, I think you have a bad Q64, but there are also 2 resistors and a diode associated with that transistor, which are less likely the culprits as when they go, they just go and don't work intermittently or 10% of the time as you noted. Intermittent functionality could also be a cracked solder joint on the header pin as it connects to the power driver board. A reflow of the solder joint itself could be the potential fix.

That being said, I do not recommend a noobie removing and replacing components on Williams/Bally WPC boards. They are very delicate and you can easily damage a trace. If you know how to use a soldering iron and a simple solder reflow, then that's as far as I would go. I would leave the board repair to an experienced tech. Clive at Coin-Op Cauldron is my recommendation for board work.
 
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Check the violet and green striped wire and how it's seated into the idc. These wires can wiggle loose in the idc with vibrations and heat. A idc tool is best to reseat the wires into the idc, but a small flathead screw driver can suffice. Check the solder on the header pin associated with that wire on the power driver board. Sometimes, just reseating the wire into the idc connector and/or reseating the connector itself can solve the issue. All in all, I think you have a bad Q64, but there are also 2 resistors and a diode associated with that transistor, which are less likely the culprits as when they go, they just go and don't work intermittently or 10% of the time as you noted. Intermittent functionality could also be a cracked solder joint on the header pin as it connects to the power driver board. A reflow of the solder joint itself could be the potential fix.

That being said, I do not recommend a noobie removing and replacing components on Williams/Bally WPC boards. They are very delicate and you can easily damage a trace. If you know how to use a soldering iron and a simple solder reflow, then that's as far as I would go. I would leave the board repair to an experienced tech. Clive at Coin-Op Cauldron is my recommendation for board work.
I'll second this. The traces on this thing are very fine, and very easy to damage or lift if you aren't careful.
 
Thank you all for your advice. It looks like I am going to have to get the board repaired as I have just tried the flat head screwdriver and cleaning the pins and no joy. I'm a bit stuck for someone to repair the board this side of the Atlantic but there is one company 'Pinball Heaven' who will do a 'standard repair' for £79.20 +parts and postage so I will email them now with the information that I have from you to check that this is what they would classify as 'standard'.

There could be some delay before this thread is put to bed but I will keep you informed as to my progress.

Thanks again!
 
Thank you all for your advice. It looks like I am going to have to get the board repaired as I have just tried the flat head screwdriver and cleaning the pins and no joy. I'm a bit stuck for someone to repair the board this side of the Atlantic but there is one company 'Pinball Heaven' who will do a 'standard repair' for £79.20 +parts and postage so I will email them now with the information that I have from you to check that this is what they would classify as 'standard'.

There could be some delay before this thread is put to bed but I will keep you informed as to my progress.

Thanks again!
Thanks. Good luck.

Make sure you look at the reviews of that place before you send anything out.
 
I'm going to take a photo of that coil in my TZ when I get home tonight and post it here. I want to you look at my photo and compare the wiring to yours to make sure you have the wires on the correct lugs of the solenoid.
 
Are you wired up like this? Same coil value of AE-26-1200? Coil is tight between the 2 brackets with zero wiggle room?

RampDiverter.jpg
 
Are you wired up like this? Same coil value of AE-26-1200? Coil is tight between the 2 brackets with zero wiggle room?

View attachment 827057
Very interesting. Initially I replaced the solenoid with a new 26 - 1200 and took a pic of how it was mounted.

I copied this when I installed the new one. However, my installed solenoid is round the other way to yours (and the bumper solenoids are the same) but the rest of the solenoids are oriented like yours. I think I have actually wired it correctly, a pic is attached.
 

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Very interesting. Initially I replaced the solenoid with a new 26 - 1200 and took a pic of how it was mounted.

I copied this when I installed the new one. However, my installed solenoid is round the other way to yours (and the bumper solenoids are the same) but the rest of the solenoids are oriented like yours. I think I have actually wired it correctly, a pic is attached.
You have the solenoid in backwards.

Reverse it and see if that solves the problem.

By reverse - the electrical connections should look like the other guys photo, not yours.
 
On wpc games the diode that is traditionally on the coil (non flipper coils) is on the driver board instead = the wire directions don't matter on the coil.

iF you replaced the coil, make sure the new coil didn't have a diode installed. I can't see it from your pic, is there a diode on your replacement coil?

Edit: Also flip your coil so the solder tabs aren't at the coil stop (like in the other pic), they might short out to the bracket. If that's the way it previously was, a previous owner put it together wrong when they messed with it.
 
You have the right wires going to the right lugs on the coil. The soldering on the violet and green wire looks cold (dull) and cracked. Hit that with some flux and flow some fresh solder on that connection. The stripped wire should go through the hole on the lug and wind around before soldering to insure a solid connection. This could be the problem
 
Update:

I de-soldered the 2 solenoid joints - which are now shiny.
The re-soldered joints now cover the lugs properly and also the copper strands which are properly wrapped around the lugs
Just to eliminate every possibility I switched the wires around too and then put them back again.
I turned the coil so it looks like sfspanky's - and I have left it in this (correct) orientation

I tested the solenoid at each point of change.

Unfortunately the problem persists.

The new coil doesn't have a diode btw.

It seems that a board repair is where I need to go.

Thanks again for all the suggestions.
 
Has anybody recommended the classic jumper wire test? Where you use an alligator clip lead to briefly connect the tab of the associated drive transistor to ground?

If you do this and the divertor operates perfectly fine, then yes, you need driver board repair. If it does not operate, or is still hesitant or inconsistent, this means you still have a problem somewhere else.
 
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Very interesting. Initially I replaced the solenoid with a new 26 - 1200 and took a pic of how it was mounted.

I copied this when I installed the new one. However, my installed solenoid is round the other way to yours (and the bumper solenoids are the same) but the rest of the solenoids are oriented like yours. I think I have actually wired it correctly, a pic is attached.
Is your coil an AE-26-1200?

Or an AN?

There is a difference.
 
Has anybody recommended the classic jumper wire test? Where you use an alligator clip lead to briefly connect the tab of the associated drive transistor to ground?

If you do this and the divertor operates perfectly fine, then yes, you need driver board repair. If it does not operate, or is still hesitant or inconsistent, this means you still have a problem somewhere else.
I will try this when I get home tonight. Thanks.
 
Not had a chance to try RusselMania's suggestion yet but just to confirm, the coil is an AE-26-1200
 
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