You are most welcome. Happy to help
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I'll second this. The traces on this thing are very fine, and very easy to damage or lift if you aren't careful.Check the violet and green striped wire and how it's seated into the idc. These wires can wiggle loose in the idc with vibrations and heat. A idc tool is best to reseat the wires into the idc, but a small flathead screw driver can suffice. Check the solder on the header pin associated with that wire on the power driver board. Sometimes, just reseating the wire into the idc connector and/or reseating the connector itself can solve the issue. All in all, I think you have a bad Q64, but there are also 2 resistors and a diode associated with that transistor, which are less likely the culprits as when they go, they just go and don't work intermittently or 10% of the time as you noted. Intermittent functionality could also be a cracked solder joint on the header pin as it connects to the power driver board. A reflow of the solder joint itself could be the potential fix.
That being said, I do not recommend a noobie removing and replacing components on Williams/Bally WPC boards. They are very delicate and you can easily damage a trace. If you know how to use a soldering iron and a simple solder reflow, then that's as far as I would go. I would leave the board repair to an experienced tech. Clive at Coin-Op Cauldron is my recommendation for board work.
Thanks. Good luck.Thank you all for your advice. It looks like I am going to have to get the board repaired as I have just tried the flat head screwdriver and cleaning the pins and no joy. I'm a bit stuck for someone to repair the board this side of the Atlantic but there is one company 'Pinball Heaven' who will do a 'standard repair' for £79.20 +parts and postage so I will email them now with the information that I have from you to check that this is what they would classify as 'standard'.
There could be some delay before this thread is put to bed but I will keep you informed as to my progress.
Thanks again!
Will do.Thanks. Good luck.
Make sure you look at the reviews of that place before you send anything out.
Very interesting. Initially I replaced the solenoid with a new 26 - 1200 and took a pic of how it was mounted.Are you wired up like this? Same coil value of AE-26-1200? Coil is tight between the 2 brackets with zero wiggle room?
View attachment 827057
You have the solenoid in backwards.Very interesting. Initially I replaced the solenoid with a new 26 - 1200 and took a pic of how it was mounted.
I copied this when I installed the new one. However, my installed solenoid is round the other way to yours (and the bumper solenoids are the same) but the rest of the solenoids are oriented like yours. I think I have actually wired it correctly, a pic is attached.
Is your coil an AE-26-1200?Very interesting. Initially I replaced the solenoid with a new 26 - 1200 and took a pic of how it was mounted.
I copied this when I installed the new one. However, my installed solenoid is round the other way to yours (and the bumper solenoids are the same) but the rest of the solenoids are oriented like yours. I think I have actually wired it correctly, a pic is attached.
Is your coil an AE-26-1200?
Or an AN?
There is a difference.
Fair enough. I was asking to make sure.AN- has a diode, AE- does not. He said the new coil has no diode... which is correct here.
I will try this when I get home tonight. Thanks.Has anybody recommended the classic jumper wire test? Where you use an alligator clip lead to briefly connect the tab of the associated drive transistor to ground?
If you do this and the divertor operates perfectly fine, then yes, you need driver board repair. If it does not operate, or is still hesitant or inconsistent, this means you still have a problem somewhere else.