FB - 3rd Party Turbo Outrun $100 Glassboro, NJ

parism

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Not mine, a lot of bottom damage but many salvageable parts. Not sure if it has harness/pcb, $100 seem like a good deal for the parts.


p
 

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Oh man. I'm almost tempted to buy that just to recover the dashboard and monitor plastics. They look in good shape… better than mine.
 
I got it. It's complete but the cabinet is baaaad. Platform gone, bottom falling out. Still waterlogged. I pulled the PCB (which has several bodge wires and the cover for the FD1094 is coming off) for transport. Monitor seemed secure enough for the trip home. Hate to say it, but this one I might end up stripping for the parts I need/can use for mine and then see if anyone wants the cabinet or just break it down. Dunno. But I couldn't have gotten the plastics for $100 on their own, I know that.
 

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I got it. It's complete but the cabinet is baaaad. Platform gone, bottom falling out. Still waterlogged. I pulled the PCB (which has several bodge wires and the cover for the FD1094 is coming off) for transport. Monitor seemed secure enough for the trip home. Hate to say it, but this one I might end up stripping for the parts I need/can use for mine and then see if anyone wants the cabinet or just break it down. Dunno. But I couldn't have gotten the plastics for $100 on their own, I know that.
Good man, plenty of parts on his game even if you decide to part it.

p
 
Good man, plenty of parts on his game even if you decide to part it.

p
Yes considering the bottom is waterlogged and falling out, everything along the bottom would need to be really carefully tested. You can see it was clearly flooded, with a water line up above the pedal assembly. The bottom is falling out completely. There is definitely mold growing inside.

The board has several interesting bodge wires. I took a couple pics.

It's a shame the base is gone completely. The cabinet probably needs like the bottom 6" chopped and replaced, but it would also need the base completely re-created. The thing looks otherwise complete.

I'm going to go through it in a couple days. Everything on the bottom (power, control boards) as well as the pedal assembly looks like there's a lot of rust and corrosion. I will need to see if that's just superficial or if that stuff is all trashed.

Chances are I will recover everything I possibly can from it and hopefully that can help not just my (other) Outrun but maybe some others out there.

The seller said he had a ton of people messaging him trying to buy specific pieces and promising to come out in a few days but I dropped everything and dashed down there within about 2 hours of making contact and was able to scoop it.
 

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I am pretty sure I have seen this pcb wiring a few times, it may be factory. The pcb can be repaired of course. The test is up to you but all the mechanical/electrical can be salvaged. The bottom is gone so you will need to cut a new base, locate some metal parts and a gas pedal. The metal parts can probably be home made if you have a metal brake…

p
 
I am pretty sure I have seen this pcb wiring a few times, it may be factory. The pcb can be repaired of course. The test is up to you but all the mechanical/electrical can be salvaged. The bottom is gone so you will need to cut a new base, locate some metal parts and a gas pedal. The metal parts can probably be home made if you have a metal brake…

p
My existing Outrun cabinet is in much better physical condition, but the plastics on this one are way better (I've already transplanted the monitor shrouds and bezel), and the controls seem to be in better shape except for the steering wheel itself.

The cabinet of this junk buy is just crumbling. It clearly had water about 6-8" deep in it for some time. The front "shelf" that the gas pedal resets on with the gray mat is just completely gone. Cut off completely from the front of the cabinet. I really don't trust any of the power stuff in the bottom of the junk cabinet, it is really corroded and nasty.

So honestly I am probably going to end up merging parts and making one nice Outrun out of the two that each had some good and some (very) bad. Not ideal from a preservation perspective but I'd have to continue to buy more parts from another parted out unit to complete my existing machine anyway.
 
My existing Outrun cabinet is in much better physical condition, but the plastics on this one are way better (I've already transplanted the monitor shrouds and bezel), and the controls seem to be in better shape except for the steering wheel itself.

The cabinet of this junk buy is just crumbling. It clearly had water about 6-8" deep in it for some time. The front "shelf" that the gas pedal resets on with the gray mat is just completely gone. Cut off completely from the front of the cabinet. I really don't trust any of the power stuff in the bottom of the junk cabinet, it is really corroded and nasty.

So honestly I am probably going to end up merging parts and making one nice Outrun out of the two that each had some good and some (very) bad. Not ideal from a preservation perspective but I'd have to continue to buy more parts from another parted out unit to complete my existing machine anyway.
I do make repro parts. If you looking for parts. You cant find. Cheers
 
I do make repro parts. If you looking for parts. You cant find. Cheers
The big items I needed were the monitor bezel and dashboard. Last I checked I think you were still working on molds for your dashboard repro. I got both pieces along with an extra monitor and a maybe working board set for $100. And an extra set of control pieces and pedal set (less the gas pedal). Can't beat that.

I am addressing a few cracks and holes in this dash now but it's 10x better than the one I had that was badly damaged. Even the start button and its light bulb are still working!

My biggest challenge now is finding a close paint color. The dash and bezel are definitely sun faded and discolored (more gold than silver now), plus I'm doing some repairs so I'm going to need to paint the dash and bezel. I've got about 12 cans of different silver and grey spray paints so far and none match very well. Anyone have a tip on a very close matching paint?
 
Wow, that MDF swell - wow.

I'm glad you got it for the parts you need. The price was hard to pass up.
 
The big items I needed were the monitor bezel and dashboard. Last I checked I think you were still working on molds for your dashboard repro. I got both pieces along with an extra monitor and a maybe working board set for $100. And an extra set of control pieces and pedal set (less the gas pedal). Can't beat that.

I am addressing a few cracks and holes in this dash now but it's 10x better than the one I had that was badly damaged. Even the start button and its light bulb are still working!

My biggest challenge now is finding a close paint color. The dash and bezel are definitely sun faded and discolored (more gold than silver now), plus I'm doing some repairs so I'm going to need to paint the dash and bezel. I've got about 12 cans of different silver and grey spray paints so far and none match very well. Anyone have a tip on a very close matching paint?
I dont have a tip on the color of the silver but you take a look at some close up pictures in my thread below:


To me, anything that is more gray instead of silver would be acceptable. Perhaps aluminum color, certainly not chrome.

But, I do want to warn you that painting plastics is tricky for paint adhesion. I would investigate how to prep them before applying color, otherwise the paint may be chipped easily (don't ask me how I know, it is still frustrating).

I have found that applying a 2K clear coat after the paint will make the painted plastic extremely durable. I would certainly do that. But, these 2 part clear coats may be tricky to do, go thin with multiple coats, otherwise they may "run" (again, don't ask me how I know, it is still frustrating).

Best of luck and post some photos!

p
 
I dont have a tip on the color of the silver but you take a look at some close up pictures in my thread below:


To me, anything that is more gray instead of silver would be acceptable. Perhaps aluminum color, certainly not chrome.

But, I do want to warn you that painting plastics is tricky for paint adhesion. I would investigate how to prep them before applying color, otherwise the paint may be chipped easily (don't ask me how I know, it is still frustrating).

I have found that applying a 2K clear coat after the paint will make the painted plastic extremely durable. I would certainly do that. But, these 2 part clear coats may be tricky to do, go thin with multiple coats, otherwise they may "run" (again, don't ask me how I know, it is still frustrating).

Best of luck and post some photos!

p
Thanks, I appreciate it. I tested a bunch of metallic and silver colors and they were all too glittery/sparkly. There's a couple gloss gray colors I found that are similar but not quite right. Too dark, too blue, not blue enough, etc.

I'm getting pretty frustrated with that. Since there are only a couple actual holes near the shifter plate, other than a couple cigarette burns which I don't mind leaving as patina, maybe I will rethink trying to repaint the entire panels. I'm getting worried about going down a crazy rabbit hole trying to paint large plastic parts with a good result…
 
Thanks, I appreciate it. I tested a bunch of metallic and silver colors and they were all too glittery/sparkly. There's a couple gloss gray colors I found that are similar but not quite right. Too dark, too blue, not blue enough, etc.

I'm getting pretty frustrated with that. Since there are only a couple actual holes near the shifter plate, other than a couple cigarette burns which I don't mind leaving as patina, maybe I will rethink trying to repaint the entire panels. I'm getting worried about going down a crazy rabbit hole trying to paint large plastic parts with a good result…
I hear you but remember that as long as the dash and bezel match in color, it may not matter in the end if they are a little off from the original. If you only sprayed one, that would be an issue.

Just my 2 cents.

p

PS metallic sliver îs a color I was never able to get just right... but multiple thin coats are probably the answer here.
 
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