Tube swap problem

Riptor

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I installed a 20" tube from a TV into a modified K4600 frame and installed a 4600 chassis on it. The chassis was in unknown condition so I checked it over and recapped it, all looked good. The impendance on the tv's yoke was really close to the 4600 so I left it on there and used that. So I hooked it up and fired it up and its working but its almost like its B&W. Adjusting the color pots will make the screen fill with color so its getting all the colors just not the correct intensity. I decided to install a 4600 yoke but it didnt help any.
My guess is the 4600 chassis doesnt have enough juice to drive the 20" monitor? Any ideas?
 
If you decreased the size of the picture to 19" it should look fine. if not, then suspect something in the chassis still.

Wouldn't mind seeing a pic...
 
I will see if I can get a pic posted tonight.
I figured I will probably pull a known working chassis and try it out. I dont see why this shouldnt work.
 
Here is a picture although it didnt turn out well. Out of three pics this one showed the best. I took one with the flash and you couldnt see anything on the screen, looked like it was turned off.
 
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Not have another 4600 that you can swap that chassis? I know its a pain with those.

Beyond that...I want to say that long ago I read that someone had put a 19" "setup" on a 25" tube and ended up with, more or less, a 19" display in the middle of a 25" glass. I can not recall if there was a yoke swap involved or something like a 19" K7000 chassis moved over to a 25" tube with a 25" K7000 yoke. For all I know, in the K7000 world the yokes could be the same. That is more of a Ken question.

Either way, something tells me an 1" diagonal bump in the tube is not enough to matter in this case. Probably enough variance to still be in side some overall manufacturer's tolerances. Its not like you are docking to the International Space Station.
 
I would be happy with a good 19" picture on this 20" tube. Im just trying to build a usable monitor.

I have known working 4600 chassis but I would have to pull it from one of my games. I do have another on the shelf that I can recap and try on it. But again, its condition is unknown at the moment.
 
Well, its a PITA, but I would swap the known good to see what it looks like. To be honest, it may be easier to pull the good monitor and swap tubes frame to frame. It I had them on the floor that is prob how I would do it.
 
Well, its a PITA, but I would swap the known good to see what it looks like. To be honest, it may be easier to pull the good monitor and swap tubes frame to frame. It I had them on the floor that is prob how I would do it.

Cant swap the tubes over, the frame was modified to fit the 20".
I rebuilt another 4600 chassis this evening and tried it out...same thing with this one.
I did find a replacment width coil for the 4600 though! The one on this chassis was broke up so I dug through the parts bin and found one that works. The only problem is I dont remember what I pulled it off of.
Im pretty confident that both of these chassis are fine. I did have to use the same cards for both since im short on those. My next step will be to pull some working cards and try them in this. If that doesnt work maybe I will try a GO7 chassis with this tube.
 
Update: Last night I took the cards out of my frogger and tested on this monitor. The good news is the chassis are good. The problem lies somewhere on the input card.
 
I checked out the bad card and found 4 bad transistors on it. Replaced them and its working now. The only problem I have now is the screen has a slight curve at the top and bottom that I cant get rid of.
 
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