Tube swap help

GoneMad

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I just picked up a Zenith Tv with tube # A48ACB02X. What I have is a G07 and a WG 4903 with very bad burn in and also a Korean AP-0621 which has a bad tube. I did some searching and want to know if someone can confirm for me that this tube I have is not compatible with any of my own, before I practice yoke removal?
 
I just picked up a Zenith Tv with tube # A48ACB02X. What I have is a G07 and a WG 4903 with very bad burn in and also a Korean AP-0621 which has a bad tube. I did some searching and want to know if someone can confirm for me that this tube I have is not compatible with any of my own, before I practice yoke removal?

I don't know about the AP-0621 (I'd need to know what tube it uses), but it will work for the G07 and the 4903.

Edward
 
I don't know about the AP-0621 (I'd need to know what tube it uses), but it will work for the G07 and the 4903.

Edward

That's good to know. The ap-0621 i just read has a CR31 socket (the smaller one), which would be no good, but to drop this into my G07 chassis, is there anything special I would have to do?
 
Well, i managed to get this tube swapped half-ass successfully. I am having a hell of a time trying to get it degaussed and the colors tweaked. Here are a few shots if anyone has any helpful suggestions.
IMG234.jpg

IMG235.jpg

And also, the old tube had these around the edge of the yoke, what are they and should I have them on the donor tube?
IMG237.jpg
 
Those strips are called CRT alignment strips, and they assist in locking in the convergence at the corners. You will need to generate a grid test pattern to use them effectively. But at least SAVE them, they could come in handy later.

Your convergence doesn't look TOO bad. As far as your gauss issues, try tilting the monitor sideways and see if that helps. Reposition the monitor a few feet from where it is and try manual degaussing if you haven't done that already.

Are you using the TV's yoke, or did you bring over the original one?
 
Those strips are called CRT alignment strips, and they assist in locking in the convergence at the corners. You will need to generate a grid test pattern to use them effectively. But at least SAVE them, they could come in handy later.

Your convergence doesn't look TOO bad. As far as your gauss issues, try tilting the monitor sideways and see if that helps. Reposition the monitor a few feet from where it is and try manual degaussing if you haven't done that already.

Are you using the TV's yoke, or did you bring over the original one?
I swapped yokes as well so the yoke matches the chassis. I will hook the monitor up to my test rig, which is horizontal and see what how that works. It's also in a different room.
 
yoke not right

I swapped yokes as well so the yoke matches the chassis. I will hook the monitor up to my test rig, which is horizontal and see what how that works. It's also in a different room.

Your yoke is not in the right position its not a degaussing issue it's a yoke issue try moving it in or out a little very little one way or another and your colors will go away, after using a degaussing wand.
 
Your yoke is not in the right position its not a degaussing issue it's a yoke issue try moving it in or out a little very little one way or another and your colors will go away, after using a degaussing wand.
This is one of those 2 part yokes. The rings are on one piece and the main yoke on another. I will loosen the main and try that in the smallest adjustments.

EDIT: Will I do this with the game running or off??
 
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One more question on this if anyone can help. With the rings being a separate component, how much does their positioning matter in regards to the yoke. They are all still glued together so the position of them in that sense is the same with the old tube. But in regards to the whole ring assembly, does it matter in distance from the yoke or if I rotate the unit one way or another on the neck,,will any of this make a difference to the colors?
 
Yes, the rings need to be a specific distance from the color guns on the tube neck. Pull up a Wells gardner monitor manual for a 4600 or K7000 and they will illustrate where to position the rings. If those were the original rings on the tube, they should pretty much be put back exactly where they were to start with. I usually mark the neck with a sharpie before removing them so that I have a starting point when I put them back on.
 
It's actually a donor tube froma zenith TV. I am using the original yoke and ring assmebly from the original, which was on my G07 chassis. I rotated the ring assembly in both directions, but didn't see much if any difference.
 
It's actually a donor tube froma zenith TV. I am using the original yoke and ring assmebly from the original, which was on my G07 chassis. I rotated the ring assembly in both directions, but didn't see much if any difference.

Next time, reuse THE DONOR TUBE'S rings. They were already adjusted and set for that tube. No reason not to reuse them (and save your self some time). A lot of times....if you put the rings back on in the exact same place, at the exact same "rotation".....very little convergence adjustments (if any) is needed.

Edward
 
I don't know how I could use the donor's rings, they are all one piece with the yoke. I just checked if there was a way they would separate, but it's all one unit. But what if I positioned the new rings they way they are on the old yoke? Or would it not matter because it's a different set of rings, if you know what I mean here.

Next time, reuse THE DONOR TUBE'S rings. They were already adjusted and set for that tube. No reason not to reuse them (and save your self some time). A lot of times....if you put the rings back on in the exact same place, at the exact same "rotation".....very little convergence adjustments (if any) is needed.

Edward
 
you also need to turn down your screen nob on the fly. you can see the raster lines and it will help the over all picture quality.

i would live with what you have.
i think it it looks fine the way it is.

Peace
Buffett
 
I don't know how I could use the donor's rings, they are all one piece with the yoke. I just checked if there was a way they would separate, but it's all one unit. But what if I positioned the new rings they way they are on the old yoke? Or would it not matter because it's a different set of rings, if you know what I mean here.

Oops, sorry....I didn't catch that the rings wern't separate from the yoke assembly.

Edward
 
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