Tube swap color tweaking help

cnlmoore

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So I did the tube swap and it went well, picture came up and certainly has potential to be a nice bright display. I kept the existing shunts on the tube and put the old yoke on top of them, seems a little higher than the original configuration, but I did get a picture. So what to do next?

Someone with some experience doing tube swaps take a look at the attached pic. Just a purity ring adjustment or do I need to move the yoke? Any input appreciated.

Chris
 

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What color are the walls supposed to be? Could it be degaussing? If its totally the wrong color, then either the yoke is too close or not close enough to the tube. I have also fixed it by rotating the purity rings. are the rings in the exact spot from when you got the tube from the TV?
 
So I did the tube swap and it went well, picture came up and certainly has potential to be a nice bright display. I kept the existing shunts on the tube and put the old yoke on top of them, seems a little higher than the original configuration, but I did get a picture. So what to do next?

Someone with some experience doing tube swaps take a look at the attached pic. Just a purity ring adjustment or do I need to move the yoke? Any input appreciated.

Chris

Did you mark the height and position of the yoke and rings before you started? I'd play with the yoke first and try sliding it back a bit. All of the swaps I did I left the rings alone and just measured their position to get it the same on the new tube. I have had to move the yoke a couple times though. - Barry
 
i did mark the original positions and will try to fine tune the positions first. Safe to
tweak the stuff with it powered on or do you guys do the on off game?
Thanks!
 
I know this is a DUH... but NO RINGS, WATCHES, or other JEWELRY when working on monitors. :)
 
Safe to
tweak the stuff with it powered on or do you guys do the on off game?
Thanks!

You have to do it with the power on - there's no other way. Avoid touching any of the electrical connections and you'll be fine.

I would read the manual for the G07 or any of the WG manuals - they go over initial convergence. It should be simpler if you kept the original rings with the tube, and are putting them right back.

Start with a solid color screen and get the yoke straight, so the picture is level and fills the screen. Then adjust the rings (move the whole unit of rings as a whole, provided you haven't adjusted them since you removed them) until you can get a solid color, then switch colors - you need to be sure you can get a solid red, green or blue screen with no blotches. This is the purity adjustment. The front two rings handle purity, for reference (closest to the yoke). But first try adusting the whole assembly of rings - try to get it back to where it came off when you took the old yoke off. It'll save you time.

Then worry about convergence. Adjust for best center convergence, and rock/tilt the yoke for edge convergence.

-Ian
 
Or use a game board that has a cross hatch pattern test in it. IIRC somebody on here said they use a Street Fighter 2 board just for that.

Personally, I use a Mortal Kombat board. The Midway test menus have solid color screens, crosshatch, and color bar tests. You can even leave one of the DIP switches set so it always boots into test.

But yeah, any number of junky common Jamma boards have monitor test patterns, and having one around is a good tool.

-Ian
 
I did keep the original yoke and rings, only the tube is a donor. The rings have been glued so I can't move them around unless I break the glue off. I will position the yoke and rings as close to the original config as possible and then try messing with minor position changes. I don't have a jamma test rig, just working with the tapper from the back of the cab. I'll check the manual to see if it has a workable test mode.

Thanks for the input. I'll post pics once I get it tuned correctly.
 
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Personally, I use a Mortal Kombat board. The Midway test menus have solid color screens, crosshatch, and color bar tests. You can even leave one of the DIP switches set so it always boots into test.

But yeah, any number of junky common Jamma boards have monitor test patterns, and having one around is a good tool.

-Ian

Yes MK does have a great test pattern, I wish my "Big Kong" did, it was a pain adjusting the monitor without it. I really didn't feel like dragging the cocktail up the the MK cabinet and making a RGB patch cable. But I am thinking that might not be a bad idea.
 
I did keep the original yoke and rings, only the tube is a donor. The rings have been glued so I can't move them around unless I break the glue off.

You should always use the rings the tube came with. If they are glued even better, all you would have to do is position them in the same spot. I always mark em with a Sharpie so I put the rings back in the exact same setting.
 
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