tron ps rebild... resistor question

cadillacman

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tron ps rebuild... resistor question

hey guys im starting work on my tron.. i was going to stick a add on ps adapter in here but i decided i will try to fix the original linear ms first.

I bead-blasted the tons of battery corrosion off of the power board today(THIS IS THE WAY TO GO ON THESE CORRODED BOARDS!!!!!) And after cleaning it looks much better then i thought it would. Theres not anywhere near as much acid damage as i thought which is great news for me!

Im going to rebuild it. However bobs kit doesent come with one part i know i need...
There is a row of 3 heavy-duty ceramic "brick" resistors. On my ps the one in the center is totally fried and destroyed on mine...

Does anybody happen to know the value of this resistor? Again its the center one of three, large ceramic rectangular type...

ill buy one if i have to but i have a ton of those resistors here that i got in a bulk buy, just need to know the value.


thanks guys...

fyi the debate to bead blasting corroded boards may soon start but im telling you this is the way to go. I had that board clean in 5 mins and in most spots im not even down to copper, some of the original tinned solder remains..
You do have to be easy on the trigger, not too close, take your time but man the next time i do a pinball mpu board i am so bead blasting it... i also held the board at an angle so as to minimize any direct imbedding of corrosion deeper into the traces.

On another note does anybody sell that green trace protective krap in a can? It wouldbe nice to seal this up when im done plus it would look likeanicer repair.
 
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its the resistor located above cap#5 in this picture

90412-1.jpg
 
What kind of a bead blasting setup (including compressor and pressure settings) do you have and what type of media are you using?

Bill
 
its at my shop, so thats 110psi, its a cheapie plastic matco one with the lid that flips open, the media is (very dirty) silica if i remember correctly(it used to be white, very fine, its not "beach sand" but has that sandy quality to it.
It looks alot like this one...http://cgi.ebay.com/small-bench-top...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a5320d803 its like a benchtop version, not too big, but big enough to do stuff like this and blast coin doors, cps, etc

frickin did a nice job.. ill have to post pics later on!

only on one spot did i pull the trigger full open.. most spots i feathered the trigger to control the flow, did it enough to clean and not more then needed.

it also did a nice job of cleaning up the little corrosion i had on a few of the connector pins...


l_e524dcd865c14a3ca0c0d3563cc2949d.jpg

l_9dab7aaab88848afaab9dbd8fcfe4653.jpg

l_0662e7e0fabe4518bd8486dae6c16604.jpg


the corrosion was worse then this when i started this deal..
blybat1.jpg



found green trace covering in a pen applicator... might be worth the investment!

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMvJqaFk9BIiv7vkq027uiu6XBgh0ebARyU=
 
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I happen to be getting ready to rebuild my board out of my Spy Hunter.

The resister is a 5W 10ohm 5% tol.

I have the Bob Roberts kits too. I am hoping the rebuild gets rid of a really nasty hum.
 
have you replaced the big blues in the bottom of the cab yet?

on mine, order is put out to bob for a bunch of stuff. I retinned all the exposed backside traces and started tinning the front traces. THey all really take the solder nicely after blasting. In a few spots i couldnt figure out why it wouldnt stick untill i realized thats where i had been holding it lol.. recleaned and it stuck nicely.

I got lucky with this resistor deal. I had a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor, a little larger but was able to bend the pins to make it fit. Pin bending also keeps the resistor off the board which is good, hopefully itll help keep the heat away from the board itself.

once i get my parts ill take a pic of the finished job and hopefully post a pic of the game working for the first time in probhably 20 years..

on a sidenote i was sticking my head in the cab today, i forgot i have a real low # tron, its like #513 or 531 or something like that.
 
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yup replaced both big blue caps, hum still there. I put the power board out of my Tron
into spy hunter and got no hum. put original board back in, hum is back.
hum has to be in power board.
 
yup replaced both big blue caps, hum still there. I put the power board out of my Tron
into spy hunter and got no hum. put original board back in, hum is back.
hum has to be in power board.

could it be the molex connectors and/or pins that they connect to on the power board? i think they usually are corroded and make bad connections. just a thought!
 
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