Tron Mod - Questions ...

PensFan66

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I know someone (well, multiple people) will be able to help me out here.... So :

I just purchased two of the larger light cycles from the Toy line and already modded them to have wires for +5 in and the switch also has external wires now - and I disconnected the speaker. The sit great on top of the cabinet (custom header, in other words) - I will not drill holes into my new machine so the back portion at the top has enough room in the holes for wires - perfect to get my wires into the cabinet.

Well, now the question. I need an easy +5/Ground to connect to - I have the Flynn shot Tron LCD mod run to the extra connector in the header portion already. I would then like to link up the switch to both light cycle ramps so the lights only light up when you hit a ramp. Also, any idea what connectors I would need to make this a clean install? Can I just split the connection in the header where the Flynn LCD connects to? (I havent metered it to know if its 5 or 12 yet)

Any ideas?

Thanks!
Scott
 
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OK, did some research into uLCD-144(GFX) and it uses 5v, so that connector in the header that the Tron LCD mod uses should be perfect for my requires 5 volts - I just need to make a splitter to keep the install clean. Anyone happen to have some tips on making a splitter for this?

Thanks for any help
 
Sure. I'd find new matching molex connectors and instead of just using single wires in the connector pins, use 2 or 3 but solder them instead of crimping. Finish off with the new connectors on the other end and you have a 2, or 3, out of one connector.

I'd like to know how you intend to switch them on with the ramp shots? I thought about doing that with the 12" figures that lights up and speak...

Tom
 
Hey Tom -

That was my thought earlier at work, so I ordered some connectors...

As for the switches, someone in RGP did it with the larger light cycles, but he put them in place of the 3" originals (I think they are too big, but a cool mod) - they only light up when he hits a ramp.

He mentions in his post : " I wired them to the two outside pins on the switch. You
have to desolder the diode where the white wire connects to isolate it
from the switch matrix. Make sure the white wire is still connected to
the diode and cover with heat shrink tubing.

So when the switch closes (ramp entry) it is part of the switch matrix
and works as the ramp entry switch. When the ball passes through and the
switch opens agin, the "Back side" (Normally Closed?) part of the switch
closes triggering a switch closure for the toy . (I think...) "

Does that help you at all?
 
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