Triple thick results

[horseboy]

I could see that leveling it, but you'd still see the separation between graphic and glass. Last night I experimented with a heat gun and it actually worked to lower the bubble and adhere the art to the glass, but it wasn't good enough to fully do it. It also made some of the art brittle, so I called it a fail and am not going further. I'm thinking the ultimate easiest would be to remove the art completely in a water bath and put a resin or something like mod podge down and then squeegee the art down to the glass again. Maybe in theory that's great, but I bet practice would be difficult. Maybe if you put tape on the back to reinforce it before the art was removed???

I think in theory that is insane. It sounds like the furthest thing imaginable from being able to work.



As for the surf board resin... when you pour something over the glass it will take chipped pieces with it as it spreads. It seems like a real long shot too.

 

[ManiN]

I think in theory that is insane. It sounds like the furthest thing imaginable from being able to work.

Normally I'd agree, but this is what inspired me:

http://www.arcaderestoration.com/index.asp?OPT=3&CBT=2

 

[TheShanMan]

But maybe the resin would help for a marquee that has bubbling but not flaking?

Or maybe the pinhole idea gameguy had might help the triple thick get into the bubble and the saran wrap/press approach would flatten the bubbles permanently?

Jake, since you apparently decided to look for a new marquee, will you be willing to experiment further with the pinhole approach? Or if Rich reports some positive results on the resin experiment by then, you could try that? I'm in the exact same situation with my spy hunter glass, but in my case it's not as easy as just putting up a WTB post because mine is a cockpit. So at the very least I want to already know that I won't make it any worse if I try one of these approaches.

 

[ManiN]

Yeah, I think that's my next attempt is to place some pin holes around and then put down some triple thick with a layer of saran wrap then roller the sh*t out of it to force the TT into the wrinkles. After that, I'll put a lamp under it with a fine paint brush and dab just enough white paint to cover the pin holes. I think that's the only way. Mine has since cracked anyway, so I'm not longer in the same 'has only delaminated' boat.

 

[horseboy]

Normally I'd agree, but this is what inspired me:

http://www.arcaderestoration.com/index.asp?OPT=3&CBT=2

Interesting...

 

[chris25810]

Just so we're all clear, there is NOTHING you can do to make dried ink re-adhere to the glass. You may get some of it to stick if there's cracks or holes that allow the triple thick to weep through but a month from now, a new spot will appear. When the adhesive dries up on a sticker, tape etc. What happens?

Seriously guys, this is about as absurd as sticking a tube out in the sun and wishing the burn to go away.

 

[ManiN]

Them's fightin' words!

 

[chris25810]

Them's fightin' words!

No fightin words, just pure logic. The best you can hope for is a "band aid" repair here, that's all it's gonna do. Triple Thick or any other kind of product will bond the old graphics together but unless you inject it between the glass and ink, there will be no adhesion at all.

 

[ManiN]

Pure? More likely based on the fact people just search for another one if the current one is damaged. Or the common use of triple thick is to secure loose flaked art. This thread was started because of the unmentioned thought of lifted art being re-laminated. No one came up with a solution, so now we're looking into it. I was actually able to re-laminate several areas with heat, but it wasn't easy enough to do the whole thing. Not to mention difficult.

 

[ManiN]

I tried the method of rolling the triple thick between layers last night, epic fail... I don't know what the best way would have been, but it didn't work for me. Marquee trashed... Either way, it seemed a bit sun faded on one end, so I'm not horribly upset about losing it in the first place.

 

[EagleTG]

Seriously guys, this is about as absurd as sticking a tube out in the sun and wishing the burn to go away.

Wholly crap, does this really work!?!?!?

(Sarcasm my friends...)

 

[alejandromad]

Heed my words:

I used Triple Thick on a Charlie's Angels backglass about 1.5 years ago. It is documented thoroughly in this thread (there are some good 'before' and 'after' pictures): http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=117715

The results were very promising.

Fast forward to 4 months ago... the bubbles that were flattened by the TT and roller technique had mostly reappeared and were more brittle than ever thanks to the added weight the TT provided.

You should know, the pin spent that year and a half in my living room and was turned on maybe a total of 10 hours over that time. I had removed about 50% of the bulbs behind the backglass and changed the others to the somewhat cooler #47 bulbs. I tell you this so you won't incorrectly assume that perhaps heat or climate played a role.

Bottom line, I can assure you that TT will NOT stick delaminated ink back down and hold it there forever.

 

[mjenison]

Here's an example of what my marquee looks like. It's not this bad, but bad enough. As you can see, the art is intact, but just delaminiated. Do you think the triple thick will soak though the art leveling it and bonding it back to the glass?

The backglass on my eDOT has a similar pattern. At one point the game was stored in a boiler room, with the backglass next to the boiler, so I assume the bubbling was heat related. I did see the thread about the floating Tron marquee, so I laid down the backglass face down with a wet towel over the bubbles and a weight placed on top of that hoping the artwork would flatten out, but nothing happened.

Taking the Tron marquee experiment to a different level; how about a glue/water emultion, like used for paper mache? In theory, the water would make the marquee artwork lift off, then as it dried the glue would hold the artwork in place.

 

[ManiN]

That's what I thought about trying, but the art didn't lift with water like that article. Not sure how his was reactive. Maybe he put a cold marquee in warm water and it was the heat expansion shearing that separated the art.

 

[ThisOldGame]

Hey ManiN
What are the dimensions of that Spy Hunter marquee glass?
I would like to try a couple of things here for these marquees

 

[ManiN]

My Spy Hunter glass marquee is 9-11/16" x 23". Ruined now from attempts to force TT under the art. Ordered a replacement from TNT Amusements. Looking back, the side with the head was a little sun faded, so I'm not as burned as I was. The replacement is a little darker in color, so it should look better anyhow.