Track & Field/Hypersports Restoration

On a different subject, wanna thank @ArcadeTechGW for suggesting the Novus to clean up the reject buttons. I wish I would have taken some before pictures because they had some really deep scratches in them. But after using some 400 grit sand paper followed by some 800 and finishing it off with some Novus #1 polish, they turned out way better than they were originally. Have to see how they look once I get the lights going. Might need to do a little more polishing on them.

FA5D0EE4-955A-42F5-886C-CE315F3259D0.jpeg3AF3FF52-FA43-43A4-AE6A-3A68991D30A7.jpeg
 
The other side was just as bad. Put some primer on it to see how well it covered the patch work.

Which I think covers it up pretty well.


21C26B53-06FB-4E37-AA8B-816AE2D50728.jpeg
 
So the sides of the game are laminated white. I didn't want to go that route, so I went with a nice Satin White to paint the sides. I think it turned out quite well.

033A89B7-9700-4DAF-9B7B-3215337EECA1.jpeg09DCC256-ECD5-4D0B-AC5D-716C40D8C000.jpeg
 
Nice looking work, be careful with those edges and corners. Bondo is not known for its structural integrity. The corners can snap off easier than the original corners. Going forward I would recommend epoxy with wood flour. The epoxy soaks into the wood it comes in contact and makes a solid bond which is much stronger than the original wood.
 
Nice looking work, be careful with those edges and corners. Bondo is not known for its structural integrity. The corners can snap off easier than the original corners. Going forward I would recommend epoxy with wood flour. The epoxy soaks into the wood it comes in contact and makes a solid bond which is much stronger than the original wood.
Interesting. I'll have to give that a try next time. How easy is it to sand and shape it?
 
Interesting. I'll have to give that a try next time. How easy is it to sand and shape it?
It sands good, it's harder than bondo. I usually wait for it to start setting and I'll shape it then. For divots, dents, and dings I'll go light on the wood flour, and for edges that I've put a piece of saran wrapped wood up. It will not stick to shrink wrap or saran wrap. For chips along the edges, I'll add a little more flour and putty knife it on. With the thicker epoxy, it doesn't drip or sag. Adding wood flour is like making liquid wood. It's bad ass.
 
On a different subject, wanna thank @ArcadeTechGW for suggesting the Novus to clean up the reject buttons. I wish I would have taken some before pictures because they had some really deep scratches in them. But after using some 400 grit sand paper followed by some 800 and finishing it off with some Novus #1 polish, they turned out way better than they were originally. Have to see how they look once I get the lights going. Might need to do a little more polishing on them.
You want to work your way to 2000 grit, wet-sanding. Then use Novus #2. Novus #1 doesn't do jack for scratches... that's just to clean/protect.
 
It sands good, it's harder than bondo. I usually wait for it to start setting and I'll shape it then. For divots, dents, and dings I'll go light on the wood flour, and for edges that I've put a piece of saran wrapped wood up. It will not stick to shrink wrap or saran wrap. For chips along the edges, I'll add a little more flour and putty knife it on. With the thicker epoxy, it doesn't drip or sag. Adding wood flour is like making liquid wood. It's bad ass.
I'll definitely look into it on my next project. Thanks.
 
You want to work your way to 2000 grit, wet-sanding. Then use Novus #2. Novus #1 doesn't do jack for scratches... that's just to clean/protect.
I did use Novus 2 after using the 800 grit and then used the #1. I might go back and work on them a little more once the game is all put together.
 
So there I had asked about what color blue to go with for the inside of the cabinet. Three people suggested three different kinds of blue.

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/track-and-field-colors.512035/

I ended up going with Deep Blue.

288342CE-16EE-4AEB-8167-00B06255A8C8.jpeg

I did buy a can of the spray paint and gave it a try. But it sort of looked a little cheap after it dried which I figured it would but wanted to give a shot just to be sure.

I remember the blue being a lighter color than this. But I do like how it turned out.

FF79923F-0C44-49A2-AEC7-54CD63F45E9E.jpegF1311467-6C87-4A9A-BD58-12B0012FCE1B.jpeg2A54476F-1D26-426F-A975-AD740DBD7CE2.jpeg
 
I have a friend who is considering getting that rearranged kit. Can you tell me what you don't like about it? I've never seen/played one in person.
Well, this is probably going to go over like a lead balloon, but in summary I ran into a few problems with it and Joe didn't make it right. It wasn't the first time I ran into a problem with one of his products, but I vowed to make it my last so in turn I don't support him any more. And no, it wasn't due to a lack of skillset in installation, although it was definitely the most involved of any of his kits.

If anyone wants gory details, they can PM me. I don't want to hijack this resto thread.
 
Back
Top Bottom