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quses

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Apr 4, 2010
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Location
New Orleans, Louisiana
Pulled out of a storage shed this morning...

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Fully-operational too... just some slight acid damage on the battery holder.
 
Interesting... from the pictures I've seen at Pinside and IPDB, it looks like I have a great-looking cabinet with not hardly any fade. All other pictures I've seen show a heavily faded cabinet, like this from IPDB:

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Anyone with a PZ know what's missing here? It looks like maybe something should be bolted there between the yellow targets? (I also see to the left there's a broken target)

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More pics

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Also, one thing I found odd, the game says "add 3 balls" but it only seems to work properly with 2. And if there's only a 2-ball multiball, why would there be 3 balls in the machine?
 
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Interesting... although which targets are original? I am assuming the "block-type" targets are original and the ones in that picture are replacements? I guess I need some kind of diverter metal piece..

Hmmm, I wonder if someone painted over my guy's eyes?

Also, the serial number on the back of the machine has some handwritten mark on it changing the last two digits... very odd...
 
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LOL.... well let's face it, the pinball machine has basically all the colors in the rainbow as a color scheme so maybe they indiscriminately used different colored targets? I would bet though that the thin targets are replacements and the block ones are originals.
 
Actually,the EOS opens the high voltage coil...looks normal to me provided the switch opens as it should.

So that's right? Because more modern Bally/WMS games seem to do the opposite.. the EOS closes a switch if I'm not mistaken. During a switch test, I could not tell if EOS was working.
 
Right, but I'm under the impression on newer WMS games, the EOS switch triggers a notice during the switch test. I know the purpose is to switch from the high power to the low power, but on newer games, there's a switch-close action that is the trigger?
 
Couple things: The yellow switches on yours are original, but the piece that goes between them is a piece of metal that keeps the ball from bouncing out of the hole because trust me without it it will.

The rubber head is available from somewhere *I found it when I had a PZ*. Also does the head turn left/right and mouth move like its supposed to?

Does the robot mouth move properly like it should?

Depending on where you are in LA I have a friend with one that is fully working and I can get pretty much any info you need.

EDIT: Keep that thing away from light and sun!!!!! That is by far the best cab I have ever seen.
 
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