To Spray or not to spray

taulpaul

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So I've rolled and wet sanded in the past, but I'm looking to try out spraying. I got a basic 21 gallon compressor and HVLP gravity fed paint gun. I've put filters to remove moisture and dust on the line as well. I've read through many threads on here about painting cabinets, and there are so many ways to skin the preverbal cat, that I talked to the guys at Sherwin Williams. Here's what they recommended in the attached picture. This is for a Mad Planets black base coat. I've got stencils on order too. Any thoughts?
 

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Not a professional painter, but why latex primer and oil top coat? I would think both should be the same type of paint.
 
Take a look at PPG Break-Through. It's a water borne acrylic. I sprayed it last summer and was really happy with the results. It's used a lot in home cabinet refinishing and is supposed to be extremely durable. The sales guy said he used it to paint a concrete floor and has yet to see a chip.
 
So I've rolled and wet sanded in the past, but I'm looking to try out spraying. I got a basic 21 gallon compressor and HVLP gravity fed paint gun. I've put filters to remove moisture and dust on the line as well. I've read through many threads on here about painting cabinets, and there are so many ways to skin the preverbal cat, that I talked to the guys at Sherwin Williams. Here's what they recommended in the attached picture. This is for a Mad Planets black base coat. I've got stencils on order too. Any thoughts?

I'm gonna paint a mad planets cabinet this week.
Ill show you pictures after and ill let you guess how the paint was applied and what i used.
 
I asked the same question, and sales guy said the latex primer easier to sand. Usually you don't don't latex under oil, but he said it's ok with this combo.

Not a professional painter, but why latex primer and oil top coat? I would think both should be the same type of paint.
 
I would not use the latex primer. I've sprayed several cabinets and automotive finish, but I'm not a pro. I use rattle can automotive primer for the sides. Better would be a high build automotive primer, for sanding. Some of the experts at the paint counter are idiots, so he could be wrong.
 
Also.....the all surface from SW is what I buy. I have had a bunch of things custom matched to the gloss oil based all surface. I wouldn't put anything latex on a game cabinet (or piece of furniture). When you spray, remember less is more. Get the cabinet smooth as glass, sanded after your primer/prep work. You must sand the last primer coat, it helps the finish 'bite'. Blow off, remove dust, wipe down, and wipe with naptha on a rag to remove any oils from skin, etc. You can blow off and wipe down with a tack rag to remove lingering dust. Spray the first coat of finish as a mist coat, as in it won't actually cover or look opaque, just a sticky mist coat. The 2nd coat will be your 1st full wet coat, but spray it thin, and if you think an area isn't covered well, don't make another pass or you'll get a run (create more work). 3rd wet, full coat, another thin coat, and likely will be all you need to make the finish solid and opaque.
 
This is great. Thanks:

Also.....the all surface from SW is what I buy. I have had a bunch of things custom matched to the gloss oil based all surface. I wouldn't put anything latex on a game cabinet (or piece of furniture). When you spray, remember less is more. Get the cabinet smooth as glass, sanded after your primer/prep work. You must sand the last primer coat, it helps the finish 'bite'. Blow off, remove dust, wipe down, and wipe with naptha on a rag to remove any oils from skin, etc. You can blow off and wipe down with a tack rag to remove lingering dust. Spray the first coat of finish as a mist coat, as in it won't actually cover or look opaque, just a sticky mist coat. The 2nd coat will be your 1st full wet coat, but spray it thin, and if you think an area isn't covered well, don't make another pass or you'll get a run (create more work). 3rd wet, full coat, another thin coat, and likely will be all you need to make the finish solid and opaque.
 
They said no need to thin or add anything.

Yeah, they told me same. I've thinned, but probably not necessary. What I've done is take a scrap piece of plywood. Primer it like the cabinet, not as perfect of course. Initially, test the gun, spraying a piece of cardboard to make sure the air pressure is ok, sprays ok, etc. Spray the test wood piece before the cabinet to iron out the kinks and get confident about what you're doing.
 
I sprayed cars and can tell you this , better have a high CFM volume compressor cause even an help gun takes volumes of air to get the right stay pattern. And spraying will always be the best finish but its not for everyone :) good luck
 
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