wrkey
Member
So, I picked up this machine and it has a few issues but most have been resolved. Today's question concerns the DMD. It is a 128x16 which seems to be 'rare' and expensive. There are replacement 'glass' components that are about half the price available but would need to be soldered onto the board.
Symptom: When I first got the machine, the DMD was working fine but needed time to 'warm up' prior to everything showing up (center areas would be missing). Over the past few week as I've been working and test playing it the warm up period lasted longer and now I get no display at all except in the corners.
Diagnosis: I had not measured the voltages into the DMD prior to it going dead so I have no comparison voltage except for the specifications in the manual. It appears that the two main voltages are running abaout 30v higher than they should be now. Based on this information I going on the assumption my DMD has out gassed.
Options: I have found a supplier for the 128x16 display (NOS) that will cost me $200. I have also found replacement 'glass' that I would have to soldier onto the board for $100.
Question: Which do I do? I am a bit more than a novice at soldiering but still do not consider myself an expert. I do have a soldier sucker and have replaced IC chips on boards that turned out okay. My concern is that if I purchase the $100 replacement glass and screw it up soldiering it on, I am no better than before and out $100.
Has anyone done the glass swap on a DMD? If so how difficult was it?
What's the 'risk level' of swapping the glass and screwing it up?
What is your recommendation: Swap or Buy Complete?
I figure if the risk level is like 10 to 20% then I'd chance the swap.. but worse than that I should probably fork out the addition $100 for one guarantted to work.
Thanks in advance for your candid and expert advice!
Rusty
Symptom: When I first got the machine, the DMD was working fine but needed time to 'warm up' prior to everything showing up (center areas would be missing). Over the past few week as I've been working and test playing it the warm up period lasted longer and now I get no display at all except in the corners.
Diagnosis: I had not measured the voltages into the DMD prior to it going dead so I have no comparison voltage except for the specifications in the manual. It appears that the two main voltages are running abaout 30v higher than they should be now. Based on this information I going on the assumption my DMD has out gassed.
Options: I have found a supplier for the 128x16 display (NOS) that will cost me $200. I have also found replacement 'glass' that I would have to soldier onto the board for $100.
Question: Which do I do? I am a bit more than a novice at soldiering but still do not consider myself an expert. I do have a soldier sucker and have replaced IC chips on boards that turned out okay. My concern is that if I purchase the $100 replacement glass and screw it up soldiering it on, I am no better than before and out $100.
Has anyone done the glass swap on a DMD? If so how difficult was it?
What's the 'risk level' of swapping the glass and screwing it up?
What is your recommendation: Swap or Buy Complete?
I figure if the risk level is like 10 to 20% then I'd chance the swap.. but worse than that I should probably fork out the addition $100 for one guarantted to work.
Thanks in advance for your candid and expert advice!
Rusty