tip102 dead. Repair options?

beerorkid

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tip102 dead. Repair options? [SOLVED]

I have been doing a ton of work on my bride of pinbot. She is looking great. You guys have helped me a bunch so far and I ran into a problem tonight. First I started replacing bulbs with LED's for under plastics and wow does that look great. I also replaced a switch that I had rigged with some thin wire many years ago and played a game everything was fine, switch worked. I wanted to replace the lights inside the rotating head so I took off all 4 of the sides and cleaned them up really good. There are kickers for the eyes and mouth and while I was in there I pulled up on one of the eye kickers to see how it works (power off). Put everything back together and played another game. Got the balls locked into the eyes and when the kicker popped a ball out of the eye the solenoid was stuck on. The head rotated and it was rubbing on the plastic of the head and I turned the machine off.

Now whenever powered on it pops on. The coil got really hot and I could smell it. After a lot of research (pinrepair.com)I have traced it to a TIP102 transistor that does not give me anything when I use my DMM on it. As pointed out in other posts there has been some repair to my general illumination header pins and it should be fixed again, although working. After reading up on replacing a transistor and seeing the warnings on doing it myself I am thinking it might be a bit more than I want to attempt myself. I bet I could do it, but am scared of trashing the board. I read that it is best to practice on another junk PCB before you attempt it, but I am thinking I better just send it in somewhere for a professional to fix it. I saw somewhere on this board a link to a place to repair it, but can't seem to find it now. Any suggestions on where I should send it for repair?

So bummed and wondering why it happened today. It looks so good right now. At least i will have some time to do the flipper repair and change rubber and lights now.

sniffff
 
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I would be a newb. I have done some on replacing switches, like today, but have never done anything on a PCB.

I picked up a 40 watt soldering iron and some 60/40 rosin core today because I knew I would be needing it for the parts I got in the mail today.

I would not know where to begin really. Would I have to suck the solder out, do i work on the back side or the front of the board?

Just really scared of possibly damaging the board. There are electronics repair places in town and I bet they could work on it even if they do not know about pinball.
 
Tip102 is super easy to replace. You have to remove the board. Make sure to mark or make note of all the connectors so you put them back on in the right spots/orientation.

Work from the back of the board, you can use solder braid or a solder sucker to remove the old solder. Then when it's all off you just pull out the xsistor from the top of the board.

I usually cut off the top of the transistor first, then you can pull out the pins one by one. I found that easier.

Practice on a junk board or something first if your not confident you can do it. Don't keep the heat on the board to long either.
 
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I read that it is best to practice on another junk PCB before you attempt it, but I am thinking I better just send it in somewhere for a professional to fix it. I saw somewhere on this board a link to a place to repair it, but can't seem to find it now. Any suggestions on where I should send it for repair?

So bummed and wondering why it happened today. It looks so good right now. At least i will have some time to do the flipper repair and change rubber and lights now.

sniffff

Where in Nebraska are you? I am just over the border in the state north of you. If you are within driving distance and want to bring it in I will change it out for you and will show you how to change it. Or you can mail it up and I will change it for just the cost of postage.
 
Thanks for the offer pinballDan. I am in Lincoln, so that could be quite the trip. Souix falls?

I think I am going to hone my soldering skills on a PC motherboard I have from an ancient dead computer I have, then work on the board. It is a skill I need to learn since I am really enjoying this hobby. I might have a few more questions in a bit. Sucks that radio shack does not carry the TIP102, but I needed to place another order with pinballlife anyways. The LEDs under the plastics look so awesome and I forgot to get new flipper leaf switches in my last order.

Will pick up the smaller transistor as well that is mentioned on pinrepair.com's suggestion to change both out.

Thanks
 
I replaced a TIP102 on my fliptronics board after I screwed up and wired a new coil BACKWARDS. Blew that little sucker (could have been worse).

Taking one out and replacing it is dirt simple. Hell, I ended up taking one of the TIP102s out of my fliptronics board that weren't being used by the game, and put that one in the burnt out spot (not the way to fix it, but in this game, it had an extra one that wasn't used, so what the hell).

If you can solder, you can do this simple simple repair.
 
I would call Dan, he is one of my friends in lincoln and I am sure he would be glad to help you. I will PM you with his personal information.
 
I am in Lincoln and could help you do it. I had to replace a few on my F-14. I had a few extras but i might have used them on something else. will have to check.
 
Good news is that I have a friend who does lots of work on PCBs and is also a collector of arcade games and he was placing an order so he got my parts and is going to assist me in the repair.

Bad news is that my board has been seriously hacked. They soldered the wires right to the back of the header pins >.<

4110556201_586669b3dc.jpg
 
Good news is that I have a friend who does lots of work on PCBs and is also a collector of arcade games and he was placing an order so he got my parts and is going to assist me in the repair.

Bad news is that my board has been seriously hacked. They soldered the wires right to the back of the header pins >.<

4110556201_586669b3dc.jpg

Looks like you get to learn how to make a molex connector too! :D

These are skills you will need if you want to own pinballs and not break the bank having them repaired. You got quite lucky with how that coil failed and being there to catch it. When the coil locks on, the troubleshooting is pretty straight forward.

Your 2 best friends in solder work are Flux and a solder sucker. Flux allows the solder to flow properly, and cleans up oxidation on the joints. The solder sucker is the absolute best way to remove solder. 9 times out of 10, a clean solder sucker removes all of the solder. If not, the solder braid can get the leftovers. I've had hit/miss luck with braid. you really need a chizel tip on your iron to use that stuff. You also run the risk of using too much heat with braid. Too much heat and the pad and/or trace will lift from the board.

Your first step:
Print out this guide, put it in a 3 ring binder, and place it next to your throne. Read it cover to cover before even touching your board.
http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/index.htm

I still keep my copy of this guide handy, along with the pin specific guides for my pinballs.
 
Good news is that I have a friend who does lots of work on PCBs and is also a collector of arcade games and he was placing an order so he got my parts and is going to assist me in the repair.

Bad news is that my board has been seriously hacked. They soldered the wires right to the back of the header pins >.<

4110556201_586669b3dc.jpg

This will probably not be a popular opinion but if it's working otherwise and only needs a TIP102 replaced I would consider leaving it like that. It would really depend on what I was planning to do with the game. If I was doing a detailed restoration I would definitely fix it but if I just wanted to play it I would leave it like that and play it until something broke.
 
This will probably not be a popular opinion but if it's working otherwise and only needs a TIP102 replaced I would consider leaving it like that. It would really depend on what I was planning to do with the game. If I was doing a detailed restoration I would definitely fix it but if I just wanted to play it I would leave it like that and play it until something broke.

I like that opinion :)

Well for now anyways.

Thanks for the tips on the removing of solder. I do plan on honing my skills on an old PC motherboard before I attempt major work. There is a guy in town that has a bunch of project machines for cheap. Most need some board work and I would love to have a few more pins. Seems like a good way to use the skills I will need to learn.
 
Assuming that connector is a cabinet wiring connector and not a board to board connector, how do you plan on getting the board out of the game without desoldering that connector hack?
 
Was hoping to just do the transistor repair with it still connected.

Going to wait and see what my friend wants to do.

sad panda :(
 
Was hoping to just do the transistor repair with it still connected.

Doable? Yes. Fun? No.

I hate doing anything inside the backbox, because it is just so awkward and uncomfortable. I had to repin some cabinet wiring connectors on a Charlie's Angles - that sucked. Much better to be able to pull stuff out to work on it.

If you just want to replace the TIP102, there is a super duper easy way to do it that has been briefly touched on already.
First, you cut off the main body of the TIP. Then you grab each leg with a pair of small needle nose pliers and heat the pad from the back. Heat approx 3 seconds, then pull the leg out the front. Repeat for other legs.
Now get the new TIP in position. Apply heat to the back again of a solder pad, and shove through the first leg. Repeat for all three. you might have to repeat the process 2-3 times to get it all the way down. Then make sure to touch up the solder if necessary.
I built a Jamma adapter using the heat/push through method.

Honestly, it is easier an cleaner to use a proper solder sucker and desolder/resolder the whole transistor at once. This could save you the $9 for the solder sucker though if you just want your machine working.
 
Doable? Yes. Fun? No.

I hate doing anything inside the backbox, because it is just so awkward and uncomfortable. I had to repin some cabinet wiring connectors on a Charlie's Angles - that sucked. Much better to be able to pull stuff out to work on it.

If you just want to replace the TIP102, there is a super duper easy way to do it that has been briefly touched on already.
First, you cut off the main body of the TIP. Then you grab each leg with a pair of small needle nose pliers and heat the pad from the back. Heat approx 3 seconds, then pull the leg out the front. Repeat for other legs.
Now get the new TIP in position. Apply heat to the back again of a solder pad, and shove through the first leg. Repeat for all three. you might have to repeat the process 2-3 times to get it all the way down. Then make sure to touch up the solder if necessary.
I built a Jamma adapter using the heat/push through method.

Honestly, it is easier an cleaner to use a proper solder sucker and desolder/resolder the whole transistor at once. This could save you the $9 for the solder sucker though if you just want your machine working.

I've used that method too in a pinch when I didn't have a solder sucker but be warned that it's really easy to lift the traces.
 
My friend has the solder sucker, but I am going to get one anyway. Eventually I will fix the hacked header up right.

I just replied to a CL listing of a lame pin that "needs work" for $25
It is a 1979 Star Explorer
I had this in my house growing up. Might be able to get a little practice getting it working, or just turn it into a hyperpin cab. Been loving playing the visual pinball tables.

I know I have said it before, but you folks are fricking awesome. Thanks for the tips and offers of help.
 
Friend came over and replaced the transistor and it is back to normal. Learned a few tricks along the way.

Wonder what made it blow. I did pull the kicker up while it was off, and it is a low power coil. Wondering if it created a bit of current when I pulled up on it and then the first time it activated it fried the transistor or something. Strange. I got a 10 pack so at least I can change more out if needed. (hope not)

Thanks for the tips and support on this repair.
 
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