Time Crisis 1 gun repair

Keeleon

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I have a Time Crisis 1 cabinet that seems to be working other than the gun got smashed. I'm currently on the lookout for a replacement gun, but I'd also like to see if I can at least reassemble this one enough to verify that the game even works.

This is what it currently looks like.
1000016142.jpg

I see the trigger and sensor(?) appear to be fine, but the solenoid is completely detached. There is a plug that looks like it goes to the solenoid and it has a weird resistor soldered in line ad well as something crossing both sides of the plug. There isn't a second wire from the plug but maybe it jsut got ripped out? Im assuming I can connect these wires to that plug? Can I test this solenoid outside of the system? Do I jsut hook up voltage to it? What voltage would it be?

Also what's the most cost effective way to replace this to make the game playable? Preferably with a solenoid feedback.
 
Also, it appears the tube at this connector broke, is there a way to fix or replace this part if I were to try and rebuild this? I took set screws out, but does it come apart further than this?
1000016143.jpg
 
So I tested the solenoid and it does work with 24v on the bench. I resoldered it all back together with the resistor thing inline on one of the legs and it didn't work. I tried to send 24v through it and it also didnt work. I removed the resistor and soldered it back together and 24v from my bench through the whole line fires the solenoid. I plugged it back into my game and it still doesnt work./ I measured those lines with the machine on and it was actually a constant 24v even when I wasn't pressing the button. Does this mean there's something wrong with the PCB inside? The trigger does work on the game, but I have no accuracy so I guess the "sensor" is also dead.

Does anyone know what resistor this is?
1000016144.jpg


One of the legs pulled out the side while I was soldering so I assume its toast now as well. Does it need to be on a specific side? Both wires coming from the back of the solenoid were red so I assumed it didnt matter. Do both sides need one?
 
Does anyone know what resistor this is?
View attachment 738696


One of the legs pulled out the side while I was soldering so I assume its toast now as well. Does it need to be on a specific side? Both wires coming from the back of the solenoid were red so I assumed it didnt matter. Do both sides need one?
I've never worked on one of these guns, so I don't have any specific information... but that's not a resistor in your pic - it's a 2A fuse. Maybe it was bad to begin with, or it's possible that you overheated and melted the fuse link when you soldered it.

And regarding 24V always being there... again, I don't know specifically for Time Crisis, but it's common for circuits to use a switched GND to fire a solenoid (i.e. 24V is always there, but GND gets switched on/off to complete the circuit).

DogP
 
So this means the solenoid should work even with the fuse removed, and its just not protected?

And regarding 24V always being there... again, I don't know specifically for Time Crisis, but it's common for circuits to use a switched GND to fire a solenoid (i.e. 24V is always there, but GND gets switched on/off to complete the circuit).

So like its always on and the "trigger" is to short it to ground or kill the voltage? How do I test for this? Unfortunately the thing was all ripped apart and I cant even find any kind of schematic or picture for how to even reassemble it.
 
So this means the solenoid should work even with the fuse removed, and its just not protected?
I doubt it... most likely the fuse was in line with the solenoid, so without the fuse, it will be open circuit.

So like its always on and the "trigger" is to short it to ground or kill the voltage? How do I test for this? Unfortunately the thing was all ripped apart and I cant even find any kind of schematic or picture for how to even reassemble it.
No, not kill the voltage... it completes the circuit. To power the solenoid you need '+' connected to +24V and '-' connected to GND. If you disconnect either of them, you no longer have a completed circuit and the solenoid won't fire. What I'm suggesting is that it's common for circuits to switch the '-' on/off instead of the '+' to complete the circuit.

Here's a simple simulation - note that no current can flow without the fuse completing the circuit, nor without the switch closed: https://www.falstad.com/circuit/cir...EwA4gA5AAiAJQ2AgYCMuAarA6HwAkhsmCpuhsVpNppogA

DogP
 

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OK, so to clarify I bypassed the fuse and just soldered the wire directly so it should not be "open", correct? Al lthe fuse does is act as a safety measure so it doesnt get blown in case of overcurrent or does it do something different in this instance?

And Im trying to understand the ground open situation. When I put my multimeter on the plug that goes to the 2 wires of the solenoid, I get 24v. If it was "open" shouldnt I get no reading? Or would I still get a 24v reading even if the ground was open like you are describing? My expectation was that those 2 wires would be 0v until the solenoid is triggered and then it would show 24v. Or in the situation you are describing, I would see 24v until it was triggered and it would go to zero because the trigger just opens the circuit instead of closing it. Is that incorrect?

As far as I understand I have a "closed circuit" because I get voltage, unless I'm missing something more complicated here.
 
I haven't seen the circuit, but most likely the fuse is just for safety and protecting other parts of the circuit from damage.

Regarding the measurement at the connector... yes, if you're measuring the voltage with one probe in each side of the connector, then theoretically you shouldn't get 24V if ground was switched. I assumed you were touching the black probe to GND elsewhere and measuring voltage with the red probe at the connector.

But that's not 100% of what's actually happening. Most likely it's not a physical switch (or relay), but instead a transistor or other active component. These will usually have a small amount of leakage, so if you're measuring with a multimeter and no load, you'll see voltage. If you connect the solenoid to it, it'll likely go to (near) 0V. If it doesn't, then the solenoid would be activated (since you said the solenoid tested good on the bench).

DogP
 
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