This is how I restore a Dynamo corner cut CP

How do you guys trim the vinyl on the corner of thee control panel? Just run a knive along the edge of the panel? I have to do mine and would like to know what the easiest way is.
 
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I did this one a few days ago, not nearly as nasty as some of the one you did. I used flat black and a crystal clear coat.
 
I have what I believe is an hs1 panel and if you want it I will trade for an hs5 panel.
 

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Looks great! Man, I need to replace the CPO on my Z-back. I really want to find a NOS overlay!!
 
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I did this one a few days ago, not nearly as nasty as some of the one you did. I used flat black and a crystal clear coat.

West, go back to the shim section of my guide. They play better when the stick rides at the correct height vs sticking out too long.

No "I'm more used to playing with a long joystick" jokes guys...
 
West, go back to the shim section of my guide. They play better when the stick rides at the correct height vs sticking out too long.

No "I'm more used to playing with a long joystick" jokes guys...

Yeah I saw that and was considering doing that, I noticed the height feeling weird. Usually I played sf on a cab with a wood control deck which put the height about where I liked it.
 
Looks great! Man, I need to replace the CPO on my Z-back. I really want to find a NOS overlay!!

Dynamite Kid - Noah had saved a NOS CPO for years for this project bellow. I recently did the CPO for him.

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So this is my third WW control panel I've restored. Got a newly powercoated 23.75" panel from Fedexin. CPO from GameOnGrafix.

I need to get a new plexi cut and I'm short a few plexi bolts, but it still looks fine. Just glad I didn't have to remove an old nasty CPO on this one.

I have an old nasty HS9 panel that I have to restore and I'm going to use a diamond plate CPO. I'll post pics when I eventually finish that one.

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I've been putting some finishing touches on an Angled Cab CP insert rebuild that I started quite a while ago with a NOS CPO and a new piece of wood for the CP. The nice thing about these cabs is you can start with a scratch build CP insert if to make something nice if your old one was drilled to hell. They also mount at wood depths so some of them Competition joysticks will play good without routing or a shim plate of wood.

I even used a piece of scratched up front acrylic from an old machine I've replaced with glass and this thing still looks pretty darned good.

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Another corner cut with CE style.

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I find CP work really gratifying when I'm in the mood to do it.
 
I have only seen one new blank Dynamo CP once and I blew it on a TekkenTag/Soul Calibur setup that someone didn't end up buying from me.

They did exist BITD but I'm sure they are really hard to find. There were a couple of build threads on guys wanting to replicate the corner cut CPs for sale.
 
New tips I use.

I shine light though the CPO when I need to register a hole or see where I need to cut the CPO so that a bolt can go through.

I like to go back and check the registration of the holes that I'm drilling in acrylic and never rush that process or you'll create cracks. Things always seem to wander the more and more holes you add.

For trimming the bullnose/corner cut... I use fine scissors and an exacto blade. If you play with flipping and seeing which blade goes which direction top or bottom of the material you can get a fine pair of scissors to cut very close running with the edge of the panel and the CPO.
 
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I built and sold this machine recently and the CPO came out really nice. It is real Polycarbonate material and not cheap printed vinyl like some people use. Vinyl folds over itself and leaves runs etc. It's a really poor material to use but it's very common these days. It's a real HF dash board as well.
 
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