Third Sanyo To Do This.. What is going on?!

thefader

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I recapped my 3rd Sanyo Monitor.. Looked great except for the same droop on the left side of the screen.. I Measured BJ - 114V.. I put my small electrical screwdriver in the B Adj, Turn it 1/1000000th of a centimeter.. instant drop to 93.3 V, there it stays no matter how much I turn it, either way.. This is my 3rd monitor to do this, Ive ordered B+ Pots from Bob Roberts, but this is so incredibly frustrating I cant even explain. Anyone know whats going wrong here?
 
Where did you get the cap kit from and did you buy them all at the same time? Did you triple check they were the same values as the originals? Did you replace all of the caps or part of them? Did you replace any other components at the same time?
 
I did all of the caps at once, they are from bob roberts. I double and triple checked the boards after capping. They all came out a tad over 108V, which I hear is normal after capping. After just barely tweeking the B Adj, it drops to 93 the screen gets a little wavy, and I cant get the value to change.

Per Bob Roberts suggestion I ordered these parts:

20EZ Replacement B+ Pot
LA5112N Sanyo 20EZ Regulator
2SD1090 20EZ Chassis

But its got me thinking, 3 monitors cant have the same Identical problem.
 
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Hopefully you kept your old LA5112N. Try swapping in the old one. If it works after doing that on one monitor, try doing it for the rest as well.

Please report back your findings.
 
Ok. So I replaced the B+ Pot with a new one, and Also replaced the Piece that attaches to the heat sink. I powered it up and it blew the BIGGER fuse, not the small one. See Pictures.
I had the lead on the BJ point before I powered it up. If it were touching the BJ point, and the underneith of the big white piece thats right next to it, would this cause it to blow? OR was it due to the B+ being set to high before I turned it on?
 

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I'm going to ignore your last post for a minute, but did you read my last post? Did you attempt to swap back the old LA5112N?
 
I havent changed it yet. I have them but I wanted to see If it would work with the new pot.
 
Does anyone have any clues whats going on here? Or why would the bigger fuse blow?? Im really stumped and I just wanna get these games going.
 
I just gotta ask this because I didn't see where you confirmed you were using the outlet in the Nintendo cab and not plugging into the wall or something. Just checking...
 
Yes sir, I only run them through the nintendo ISO. Also, the D1090 Chip I switched out that is on the heat sink, only connects one way, as the screw has to go through it. I checked the back of the board really close and dont see any unwanted connections.

Can someone tell me what causes this fuse to blow rather than the 300mA? Every other time I've shorted out one of these boards, just the small fuse goes. This time it was the bigger one.


Would my gator clip I had on the BJ test point, contacting that the metal under that Ceramic piece cause this to blow? And should I have my new B+ pot set to a certain spot before firing it up? (All the way left, all the way right?)
 
Would my gator clip I had on the BJ test point, contacting that the metal under that Ceramic piece cause this to blow? And should I have my new B+ pot set to a certain spot before firing it up? (All the way left, all the way right?)

only if it is touching something that it shouldn't be touching. start with the pot centered.
 
OK: Next chapter. I took out that 3 prong piece, replaced the old. Fuse no longer blows. Voltage at 108V. BUT... Its still doing this little twitch on the left side. This monitor has been recapped, with a new C606 Cap. What now??
 

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Uhmm, on this one No. Most where. But I have 2 monitors doing this now. One of them doing it has had all of the caps replaced. But I have 1 monitor that works fine on this board.
 
Thank you Dokert. I tapped them both, The game hasnt twitched again yet. You get my vote for most helpful poster.
 
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