The WG K6100 discussion thread.

ArcRevival

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Do you work on them yourself ? Work on them for other people ? Need someone to work on yours ?

Do you just cap it and throw in a LV2000 and call it good or do you go above and beyond ?

What mods do you do to your K6100's ( if you do your own work).

I have rebuilt a few with BR's deluxe kit and have only had one failure so far. Just curious what everyone else is doing/using and what kind of results have you had.
 
I find them hard to work on. I owe a fellow KLOVer a drink or two at CAX for helping me with my Tempest.

But I have mounted a fan inside my Tempest to keep the deflection board cool.
 
Do you work on them yourself ? Work on them for other people ? Need someone to work on yours ?

Do you just cap it and throw in a LV2000 and call it good or do you go above and beyond ?

What mods do you do to your K6100's ( if you do your own work).

I have rebuilt a few with BR's deluxe kit and have only had one failure so far. Just curious what everyone else is doing/using and what kind of results have you had.

Good thread! Do you have a link to this BR's Deluxe Kit?
 
I have found that if Im not putting the LV2000 on it, then I will upgrade one of the Q100 or Q101 (Cant remember off hand) to NTE 50. I havent had one of these fail so far.
 
I have never had to work on either 6100 in my Tempest or Black Widow. I do know the one in BW needs a cap job, but other than that, both are pretty much stock. Neither of them have any LV2000's though the Tempest does have fans in it. Some of you may be shocked by this, but I have owned the Tempest for 5 1/2 years so far. *knock on wood*
 
I had someone rebuild the 6100 in my Tempest soon after I got it with new caps and the LV kit. Never quite worked right so I replaced all the frame mount transistors. Still didn't work right so I had my cpu looked at. Replaced that (twice) checked the AR board and replaced the big blue. Then I noticed a wire that had broken off of one of the frame mount transistors. Resoldered that, then noticed a fuse blown on the chassis. Replaced that, now I just get a dot in the center of the tube. Pulled the chassis and will be sending it back to the repairman. What a nightmare. Now the 6100 in my Star Wars on the other hand has never been a problem, even for the new owner 3 years after I sold it. Killerkades rebuilt that one. I'd send him my 6100 stuff from now on, if he'd let me.
 
Well, I just ordered a few of the LV2000 kits and I have a BR Deluxe kit. My Black Widow needs to be rebuilt, so I'll post a follow up here once that is done.

The only thing I dread is the number of parts that have to be replaced. More parts the more chances for something to go wrong :(
 
Because I've been fixing these things since they were new, I just fix whats wrong and go with it. Thats until the LV2000 and its ilk came to be. Now if I have to fix one I install a LV2000 by default. The LV section is the weak point on this monitor. If it had a robust supply that was capable of shutting down in overload conditions to begin with this monitor would have enjoyed a longer life in arcades. The only mods I ever did was to add heatsinks to the transistors with clearance. That and a fan and they would stay running for some time before blowing up again.
 
I only ever had one 6100. It was in my Major Havoc (SD cab) and it worked great. It had just been repaired by the in house tech where I worked. I had the game for about a year and it worked wonderfully the whole time. There was a hole cut in the back door with a fan mounted in it. Placed directly behind the monitor, it helped cool things off. I don't know if the monitor was modded or not, but it worked just fine.
 
I recently purchased a Tempest, and while I haven't had to do anything to the monitor yet, this thread convinces me I need to install a fan in the cabinet pronto.
 
I have found that if Im not putting the LV2000 on it, then I will upgrade one of the Q100 or Q101 (Cant remember off hand) to NTE 50. I havent had one of these fail so far.

I think it's Q101 and a MPSU57 HD will work in that spot too. That is what I do too and have not had any problems. I also shotgun several of the resistors in the HV cage that seem to always look burnt but meter good.

Another major trouble spot I have found is where all the harness wires are soldered to the boards. Make sure you remove them and clip off those little crimped on lugs or whatever you want to call them and solder the wire straight to the board like on the Amplifones. I would do this on every wire on the neck and deflection board no matter how they look. I have had a couple break off and a couple that were being held on by just a strand or two.
 
On a side note how hot do those chassis mounted transistors get? I was messing with a 6100 yesterday and touched the 2 mounted on outside of the chassis. The one further up was smoking hot...like burn your hand hot...the one closes to the back of the board was just warm
 
I second the BR kit plus LV2000. I don't understand why people think they are so hard to work on. The board comes out relatively easy and so does the PS. The frame mounted transistors can be hard to get to if you don't pull the whole monitor out of the machine but otherwise they seem pretty straightforward. I've done quite a few of these and they have all worked for years after. And I'm a complete novice. My kid did a cap-kit on one for me and he is 12. I don't remember how old he was at the time but it's not brain surgery.
 
I have had a couple that seemed to be working fine when I was done, but the B+ and HV was too high, and if I had not metered it, I would not have been able to tell. I am not dismissing you or your son's abilities, but are you checking all the voltages when you are done, or just seeing a picture on the screen and calling it good.
 
Fixed 2, for my Space Duel and Tempest. Both times, BR kit, BR additional parts kit, LV2000. No problems so far. I wish the shotgun/parts approach worked on game boards..
 
Newbie 6100 owner question: is it possible to rejuvenate the 6100 tube? Good idea/bad idea? My green is a little weak at startup. Reading Tempest horror stories almost makes me want to hold my breath when I play it; I should probably leave it alone.

I spent a week rebuilding my 6100. LV2000, and Bob's deluxe 6100 kit: cap kit, new side mounted transistors, upgraded diodes, etc. My final upgrade was to remove the HV power supply mesh and mount a server fan on standoffs to keep everything cool. I also reflowed the PCB header pins and rebuilt the power supply sections.

My only color vector...and I'm fine with that.
 
On a side note how hot do those chassis mounted transistors get? I was messing with a 6100 yesterday and touched the 2 mounted on outside of the chassis. The one further up was smoking hot...like burn your hand hot...the one closes to the back of the board was just warm

I have never touched those but I know the same ones on the Amplifone get pretty hot.
 
I've owned 3 WG6100's... all three got the LV6100 + BR kits...

1 worked great and still does.
1 didn't work when i was done and Mod saved my ass. Found a broken trace and more.
1 worked OK before and works a little better after but the BR kit and LV6100 didn't rectify the geometry issue I was/am having at the left side of the screen. It's still a work in progress.
 
Newbie 6100 owner question: is it possible to rejuvenate the 6100 tube? Good idea/bad idea? My green is a little weak at startup. Reading Tempest horror stories almost makes me want to hold my breath when I play it; I should probably leave it alone.

I rejuved mine and that did a great job of restoring the red.

I have an LV2000 I bought a while back and haven't gotten around to installing it. No fan in mine either but maybe I'll do that when I install the LV2000. I've had my Tempest for 1.5 years and so far so good.
 
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