The staples used in arcade cabs

derSturm

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OK. I've been buying machines and finishing out my workshop and now I'm finally getting nitty-gritty with the work. I'm gonna be asking a lot of questions because I'm IGNORANT as hell at this point and I'm wanting to do everything right.

These staples they used manufacturing these cabs: Can I get them at Lowe's/Home Depot? What are the advantages/disadvantages of using them? And are they driven by a compressor-driven gun or is there a spring-driven one that does it right, also?
 
OK. I've been buying machines and finishing out my workshop and now I'm finally getting nitty-gritty with the work. I'm gonna be asking a lot of questions because I'm IGNORANT as hell at this point and I'm wanting to do everything right.

These staples they used manufacturing these cabs: Can I get them at Lowe's/Home Depot? What are the advantages/disadvantages of using them? And are they driven by a compressor-driven gun or is there a spring-driven one that does it right, also?

A spring driven type as you say won't do it. You will have to buy a narrow crown stapler at HD, Lowes, etc.. I will also add that while my Harbor Freight pin nailer and framing nailer have performed really well, the narrow crown stapler I bought from HF was garbage and went in the garbage.

I bought the Hitachi narrow crown stapler at Lowes, I think this model

http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-N3804AB3-2-Inch-18-Gauge-Stapler/dp/B000MLPE7G

I 'think' the factory Atari staples were slightly more narrow, perhaps 3/16" crown, but this is the closest to the real deal I've found and it looks great.

As a side note, for stapling ground braid in early SS Bally/Stern pinball cabinets and Williams vids, the Porter Cable 22ga upholstery stapler seems to be the closest match. You won't find that in Lowes or HD, I got mine slightly used on Ebay. Like this model:

http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-US58-22-Gauge-C-Crown-Upholstery/dp/B00004SBC3
 
I recently re-attached my Galaga SN tag and the dip switch tag. I put them back in the original factory location using the factory holes. I couldn't find the right size staples ANYWHERE. Since I only had a few to attach, I simply took individual staples and bent them to the correct width, trimmed off the long leg and used a tiny hammer to put them back into place. Worked great!

4437B61C-B5CC-4DBF-9052-B0AF68CECD3B-376-000000B41E8FC059.jpg
 
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I think those staples were incorporated for speed reasons. I just put a Pole Position back together and used better glue as well as screws instead.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Guess I was thinking about different staples...he meant in assembling the cab maybe. I took nitty gritty to means the final anal details, like putting a SN tag back on the original holes :)
 
Guess I was thinking about different staples...he meant in assembling the cab maybe. I took nitty gritty to means the final anal details, like putting a SN tag back on the original holes :)

Yeah, I meant for assembly as well as looking factory correct. The narrow crown staples joinery method would be used for cheap cabinetry or furniture, and yes to Darren it was used as a cheap/speed method. However, I'll building a repro cabinet for Quantum and some others and want it to look correct down to the spacing between the staples. If you can, why not?
 
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