The semi-official Multi-Williams build thread

[VectorAddict]

I assume that a lot of others got in on the new CP/CPO, and hopefully a JROK board. Let's use this thread to share suggestions and progress.

Here's what I've done so far, with pics to prove it happened

Priming and painting:

A fellow KLOV'er suggested that I position the top using a few buttons. This worked great!

Bottom is finished:

 

[VectorAddict]

Time to remove the backing and do the top...

Overlay install is done!!

I painted the hinge and bolts flat black (some of these go to another game). The square part of the old carriage bolts didn't fit through the holes in the CP, so the bolts stick out a tiny bit in front. I'll probably just let it be, but I could just use a slightly smaller carriage bolt.

 

[VectorAddict]

The catches need to be moved forward 3/4", to compensate for the reduced thickness of the control panel:

Removing staples from the "gasket" that goes between the CP and the glass bezel. I used double-sided tape to attach the gasket to the control panel. I need to buy some thin weatherseal to attach to the other side.

CP installed. The reason that the right joystick isn't there is that its top leaf switch butts up against the bezel holder. I'll need to cut out a notch in the bezel holder.

Close up of the plastic gasket:

I hope this helps someone. Many thanks others who posted their pics; they'll help when I install the rest of the hardware.

 

[jimkirk]

Nice job on the cp.
Those Phoenix overlays go on real easy.
I had no problem and it went on without any bubbles or creases.

 

[VectorAddict]

Thanks for that button tip, Jim. This was my first ever CPO install, and it went off without a hitch (thanks to a great quality CPO). I did have one scary moment when I was positioning it and it grabbed in the wrong place, but I was able to pull it off with no damage (after a few moments of panic).

 

[StrainedSky]

Looks good. I also have to notch out the bezel holder to fit the right joystick.

 

[PrairieDillo]

Robotron needs a notch on the Left side. How did you mount your joysticks?

For my hinge I ground the corners off of the carriage bolts so that it sits flush. Used a Dremel.

Copied below from another thread.

I built a spacer for mine. I think I got my joysticks looking/sitting correct (for a Robotron) and will shoot a picture for reference.

The real issue i'm finding now is that leaf buttons don't fit. Do I really have to ream out the holes on these?

I figured out that they are sized for happ buttons and not leaf style buttons. Depending on the leaf buttons you are using you'll need to open up the holes to take the buttons.

I think that the correct way to mount leafs on the Phoenix Arcade Control Panels design is:

Short style leaf buttons with the taller spacer holders for the leaf switches.
4" joysticks
5/8" wood block spacers with chuncks cut out for two of the buttons on the right joystick.
two 5/16" washers per joystick stand off so that the dust cap can sit between the metal CP and the wood spacer.

The joysticks standoffs should have been bolts instead. This way you can mount it without a wood spacer for 3.5" joysticks. This current way gives you less options. I didn't mind since I wanted to use a spacer with longer joysticks anyways. My problem is that 4" sticks only seem generally available in Baby Blue and Vermillion (which looks like pink)

 

[VectorAddict]

Robotron needs a notch on the Left side. How did you mount your joysticks?

Just mounted my WICO 8-ways directly to the standoffs. But I'm planning to copy what you did with the wood spacer.

The real issue i'm finding now is that leaf buttons don't fit. Do I really have to ream out the holes on these?

I figured out that they are sized for happ buttons and not leaf style buttons. Depending on the leaf buttons you are using you'll need to open up the holes to take the buttons.

Damn it, you're right. I tried all the buttons I had and only 1 of them fit - I guess it's a Happ button.

5/8" wood block spacers with chuncks cut out for two of the buttons on the right joystick.
two 5/16" washers per joystick stand off so that the dust cap can sit between the metal CP and the wood spacer.

This idea totally rocks. The artwork for the joysticks is too nice to cover up.

 

[VectorAddict]

Short style leaf buttons with the taller spacer holders for the leaf switches.

My plan was to make the wood spacer cover the entire panel, so that I could just screw the leaf switches into it.

 

[jimkirk]

You might try using a dremel to grind down the shoulders of the buttons.

 

[VectorAddict]

I made more progress on my CP today. It took me about 30 minutes to grind down the shoulders of my leaf buttons so they'd fit. I used this Dremel bit:

I wanted to be able to screw leaf switches into wood, so I riffed on Prairied1ll0's idea. I made a paper template and drilled out a 22"x5-1/2" piece of wood, 1/2" thick. I used a 1/2" spade bit for the joystick lugs, a 1-1/4" hole saw for the buttons, and a 2" hole saw for the joystick itself. Pictures are better than words here:

The small rubbers were great; they hold the wood tight once the WICO joysticks are installed, and they leave just the right amount of room to install the dust cover under the CP:

 

[VectorAddict]

I checked the clearance with a leaf switch I pulled from my Joust CP, and it was perfect. Unfortunately I forgot to order leaf switches to go with these buttons, so I won't be able to finish this today.

There is one problem with the panel I made: the holes are too large to hold the PAL nuts. Fortunately the buttons are so tight they don't budge anyway, so this was a non-issue. If I did this again I'd drill a smaller hole, and just use a Forstner bit to cut a shallow hole to clear the button shoulders.

 

[VectorAddict]

BTW I made 2 of these wooden panels. If anyone wants the other one please PM me; I'll sell it for $20 shipped. Just be aware that the holes will not hold PAL nuts.

 

[VectorAddict]

I think I may have wasted my time, at least for the buttons. These seem like the way to go:

or

 

[jimkirk]

I think I may have wasted my time, at least for the buttons. These seem like the way to go:

I made the same mistake when I drilled the holes in my wood cp.
I should have first drilled the smaller hole,for the threaded part,then the larger hole,for the button shoulder,like the original ones so I wouldn't have needed those holders.
Forstner bits are the only way to go when drilling old wood cp's.
The spade bits really chew up the old plywood cp wood.

 

[VectorAddict]

I finally realized what the lugs near the start buttons were for:

The leaf switches with the taller standoffs worked perfectly, so I didn't need the wood after all. I did keep the 2 blocks in place (copying Prairied's idea):

I think I'm about 30 minutes from playing Robotron!

 

[StrainedSky]

I finally realized what the lugs near the start buttons were for:

The leaf switches with the taller standoffs worked perfectly, so I didn't need the wood after all. I did keep the 2 blocks in place (copying Prairied's idea):

I think I'm about 30 minutes from playing Robotron!

Looks good. What'd you use for the start button lights? Hard to tell the excution from the pics.

 

[Kawydud]

Very nice, I have two of these that I need to work on. Where are the leaf switches from?

 

[StrainedSky]

Very nice, I have two of these that I need to work on. Where are the leaf switches from?

Bob has them

 

[shirkle]

I just thought I'd add my own take on the MW control panel. I don't think I've ever posted a picture even though I made this panel about 6 years ago.

This is for a Defender only...
It's just 1/2 MDF with holes drilled in it. I put a 1/4 piece of plexi with a sanded/smoothed edge over it to protect the CPO. I ended up never even taking the backing off of the CPO because it's held in place by the buttons and bolts. This works extremely well for a Defender cabinet. I had to cut the CPO, but it worked out to be in a really nice place anyway. I think it looks great.

By the way, this cabinet was completely empty (well, there was a little metal wire braid in there )and painted over when I got it. I stripped the paint, and repainted it completely...before stencils or sideart were available. We taped it off with painters tape and did one small section andd color at a time!