The science of leaf switches

D_Harris

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Does anyone know the reason for the variability of leaf switch design between those used with joysticks and those used with buttons?

I'd appreciate advice on the plausibility using the normal joystick leaf switches with buttons and also normal button leaf switches with joysticks.

Also, for those familiar with the Williams joysticks for games like Joust and StarGate, I have in my possession what appears to be after-market leaf switches on a couple of these Williams joysticks I have. the image below shows the new leaf switches on the left joystick and the original leaf switches on the right joystick.

I have no idea what there is if any difference as far as quality is concerned, but the old leaf switches are definitely stiffer.

Is anyone familiar with these new leaf switches and who sells them? (My personal preference is for the stiffer original leaf switches on these joysticks).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 

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I too believe well-adjusted leaf switch sticks and
buttons are the king of the arcade control panel,
on classic age games and all the way through the 90s.

Microswitches have benefits, but these are mostly
in the best interest of the amusement operators,
not so much for the players. The main exception
would probably be fighting games.

As for vendors, here is one comparable product.
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=365

There aren't many sellers, but I'm sure there are others.
Even Bob Roberts does not appear to have them [currently].
 
Also, for those familiar with the Williams joysticks for games like Joust and StarGate, I have in my possession what appears to be after-market leaf switches on a couple of these Williams joysticks I have. the image below shows the new leaf switches on the left joystick and the original leaf switches on the right joystick.

I have no idea what there is if any difference as far as quality is concerned, but the old leaf switches are definitely stiffer.

Is anyone familiar with these new leaf switches and who sells them? (My personal preference is for the stiffer original leaf switches on these joysticks).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

The new ones (left hand side) look like the ones that come with the Arcadeshop rebuild kit. The original switches came with a strip of spring steel on each side that keep the joystick centered. A common operator hack was to make replacement springs out of hacksaw blades.

ken
 
The new ones (left hand side) look like the ones that come with the Arcadeshop rebuild kit. The original switches came with a strip of spring steel on each side that keep the joystick centered. A common operator hack was to make replacement springs out of hacksaw blades.

ken

Ok. Obviously that is what I have. The "rebuild kit" only need a joystick, bushing/washer and "e" clip.

The big question why did Arcadeshop make the spring so weak? And has the weak spring issue been brought up before?

Also can joystick leaf switches be mounted under buttons if screwed directly into the underside?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Also, for those familiar with the Williams joysticks for games like Joust and StarGate, I have in my possession what appears to be after-market leaf switches on a couple of these Williams joysticks I have. the image below shows the new leaf switches on the left joystick and the original leaf switches on the right joystick.

As Ken pointed out, the real difference between the two has nothing to do with the actual leaf switches. What the joystick on the left is missing is the spring steel pieces that provide the resistance and centering. I don't think anyone sells those pieces, but I've made my own before. The hacksaw blade idea is not bad... but I have a feeling that might be stiffer than the originals.
 
As Ken pointed out, the real difference between the two has nothing to do with the actual leaf switches. What the joystick on the left is missing is the spring steel pieces that provide the resistance and centering. I don't think anyone sells those pieces, but I've made my own before. The hacksaw blade idea is not bad... but I have a feeling that might be stiffer than the originals.

How did you cut yours? And what material did you use?

If a hacksaw blade is too stiff and the Arcadeshop leafs are not stiff enough then there must be a better material that is in between.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
The hacksaw blade idea is not bad... but I have a feeling that might be stiffer than the originals.

Actually, in my experience the hacksaw blades are a perfect match for the stiffness. I first ran across it on a Joust control panel I picked up in a parts swap. I was amazed at how well the player 1 control felt. Normally on a Joust, player 1 feels sloppy and player 2 feels tight, because player 1 gets at least 10x more games than player 2. When I flipped it over, I saw the hacksaw blade on one side and the original spring steel piece on the other side. There was no difference from side to side on that control.

I have since found 3 others that were fixed that way. One with just 1 side and 2 with both sides.

You could use any tempered spring steel about that thick, it just happens that most people have hacksaw blades handy versus trying to find a source for spring steel.

ken
 
How about metal packing strap?

You know the spring steel you see binding wooden crates and the likes.

I was getting ready to suggest that very thing. And Ken's right about the thin-ness, but I bet using several pieces would take care of that.
 
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