The G07 is Dead To Me!

Trioxin

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What can I do to replace the Old burned in monitor with better technology?

I installed the cap kit and still had problems, I just want it to work... damn it.

Btw this is in Centipede..
 
The G07 is great technology - one of the best. If you can't fix it, don't blame the board. There are others who can fix it for you if you give up.

Or you can spend a couple hundred bucks for something else....
 
I put the cap kit on and it just had vertical collapse..of some sort..

I took it back out and re-flowed a few things...put it back in, now its blowing fuses.

I double checked everything... nothing is clumped with solder, nothing is backwards..
I just dont get it.
 
You most likely have an isolation problem with the HOT or the VR. After time the plastic screw isolators get cracked and or you have a short through one of the mica insulators. Replace the fuse, turn it on and I bet you hear a zzzzztt and possibly a little smoke out of one of the two components.
 
i did get a little smoke out of one of the componets on the board, right under the small fuse

the number on the componet r903
 
Not uncommon for R903 to burn up if you have a bad insulator on the HOT and/or VR.
Replace R903 and replace the HOT and VR insulators if you reused the old ones. You may have damaged the HOT and VR if they grounded out because of the bad insulators or simply the plastic guides are bad and/or you simply had one or both of the legs ground out to the chassis.
Another item that can become damaged is X901.
 
are the insulators the bottle cap fellas with the ceramic spacers on each side?

Sorry, im new at this.. if so I did replace those...

if not..what are they?

Thanks for the help btw.
 
are the insulators the bottle cap fellas with the ceramic spacers on each side?
Under the "bottle cap" should be a rubber or mica insulator. From the backside are two plastic spacers/guides.
So verify you don't have a short caused by the white plastic round spacers or a bad insulator by doing the following. Use a Digital Multi meter set on continuity testing "usually signified by the ~"
Touch your red and black lead to gether - should hear a beep. Now place the red on the bottle cap and black to the metal chassis. If it beeps/rings you have a short.

Thanks for the help btw.
NP!

And fwiw I despise wokring on G07's.
 
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okay, one of them does have a pretty brittle beaten up plastic "washer" insulator.

i did have to put silicone between the plastic on one because the rubber was missing...

but my multimeter doesn't have a beep feature. however.. from post to post on the hot? I'm getting a 35 reading.. from post to chassis I'm getting about the same. that tell me I'm most likely getting a short... I'm sure Ive got the wires on correctly... i guess that beat up insulator is letting enough power to the chassis.. maybe that's why the monitor didn't work in the first place?

Ill try and find new ones and see what happens.. is there anything else ill need that i might have blown in the process?
 
Order new mica insulators not that rubber kind.
Common failures of shorted HOT or VR include but not limited to:
HOT, Voltage Regulator, (X901), and (R903)

Sadly you have no history on this monitor and you have no clue if the previous owner was a chucklenutz.
I would suggest you also verify the HOT and VR wiring:
Here's a great article with pics for reference.
http://arcadecontrols.com/BBBB/g07repair.html
 
thanks again for all the help! im gonna order all that stuff now!

This game was a freebie anyway so any money into it really isnt any money lost.
 
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