The Black Hole, problem.

stu

Active member
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
217
Reaction score
50
Location
Oakland, California
So, I have this Centipede cocktail with a G07-FBO.
It's got a black hole, nothing appears in this area.
I figure it needs a new tube. Is that right?

The photo is in test mode... to show the extent of the damage.

Anyone ever get a tube from http://www.arcademonitor.com/ and install it?
 

Attachments

  • centipede ct 1.JPG
    centipede ct 1.JPG
    92.4 KB · Views: 98
I had the exact problem when I bought my tetris. I did a capkit and it fixed the blackhole, try that before looking at new tubes.
 
That's one of the most bizarre things I've ever seen. I'd love to hear an explanation as to what could be happening to cause this. The only thing I can theorize is missing phosphor on the face of the CRT...
 
That's one of the most bizarre things I've ever seen. I'd love to hear an explanation as to what could be happening to cause this. The only thing I can theorize is missing phosphor on the face of the CRT...

Someone must have left a speaker or some other magnet on top of it. I thought once it's gone, it's gone for good. Either way, I'll start with the capkit and go from there.
 
that looks uh... pretty F-ed. there were a couple threads I've seen over the years that had the same problem. I don't remember or probably never knew the resolution to either black hole issues, I'm thinking they wound up just swapping tubes.

hope it's something really easy.
 
should replace caps and solder a few connections
then see what happens. never seen a tube do that or yoke.
Does look like it needs a cap kit and replace the big filter cap too.
good idea to get a fly too while your at it..
check for 120v dc at the emitter of the regulator on heatsink see if dc is low.
 
I've seen this happen on a few different monitors, most notably a K7000 (search for K7000 black blob) and a Wei Ya (caps). If this monitor is all original, it needs to be rebuilt, anyway.
 
I figure out you would give screen pot to max and see if the hole bright with scan lines, that´s something you can easily note. If this happens, then is not a tube issue. LEt us know...
 
Thanks for all the input. I figured it would take a full rebuild, it doesn't look like anything has ever been replaced or serviced. I'll cap it, then go from there.
 
A magnet isn't going to cause a blank spot on the screen.

That's one of those things I heard as a kid. I'm new to monitor repair.

should replace caps and solder a few connections
then see what happens. never seen a tube do that or yoke.
Does look like it needs a cap kit and replace the big filter cap too.
good idea to get a fly too while your at it..
check for 120v dc at the emitter of the regulator on heatsink see if dc is low.

All this seems to make sense.....

(search for K7000 black blob)

This helped. I had a hard time figuring out what to call it...
After looking through all the 'blob' threads, there seems to be different things going on. The wavy blob in the side-center, and then the isolated 'blob' in the corner.. What's the known name for this phenomenon?
 
Cap-Kit-It

Your cheapest option is the cap kit. It will give you a go / no-go decision at least, by eliminating the weak links.

I'd say no to the Flyback for a first go - you have an image - if the Flyback was dead, you'd have nothing.

Thinking of how a monitor / TV works, with the scan lines, this is an interesting one. I'm trying to explain how this (bad caps) would do this, but I'm at a loss.
 
I'd say no to the Flyback for a first go - you have an image - if the Flyback was dead, you'd have nothing.



It's a G07. If you WANT to have a loud fireworks show right after capping, follow the above advice. While you already have the chassis out and the iron hot, take my advice, replace the flyback.
 
It's a G07. If you WANT to have a loud fireworks show right after capping, follow the above advice. While you already have the chassis out and the iron hot, take my advice, replace the flyback.

If I'm correct, the flyback for the G07-FBO is the same as G07- CBO... part number A29951B.?
 
Damn. I missed the part about the FBO.

Many people have reported being able to use the CBO flyback on an FBO, with only a few people who have not.

The footprint is the same for both. I can't comment on the specs, as I do not know.

You can always try it, and if it does not work, put back the original.
 
I still want to hear the answer to his other question: Has anyone bought a tube (or monitor) from arcademonitor.com?
 
Flyback failure - We need Mythbusters!

It's a G07. If you WANT to have a loud fireworks show right after capping, follow the above advice. While you already have the chassis out and the iron hot, take my advice, replace the flyback.

That's fair, but you'd better have a good iron. Those flyback leads are big - will the standard 20 watt iron people are using to replace caps doing to be enough?

Re: your comment about fireworks (which is something we all should try to avoid) honestly, every time you have done this, the fly went bang? How many times did you try this, or did you try it once with a bad fly, and now you advocate replacing the fly?

A flyback is a loosely coupled inductor. What would be the failure mode that would be induced by replacing the capacitors on the game board? It's a winding around a ferrite slug.

What drives the fly to fail?
 
That's fair, but you'd better have a good iron. Those flyback leads are big - will the standard 20 watt iron people are using to replace caps doing to be enough?

Re: your comment about fireworks (which is something we all should try to avoid) honestly, every time you have done this, the fly went bang? How many times did you try this, or did you try it once with a bad fly, and now you advocate replacing the fly?

A flyback is a loosely coupled inductor. What would be the failure mode that would be induced by replacing the capacitors on the game board? It's a winding around a ferrite slug.

What drives the fly to fail?

I have several g07's in games. Recapped years ago without replacing flyback and still running strong.
 
Back
Top Bottom