ThatArtGuy's Donkey Kong Scratch Build

So, I went home for lunch today and actually was there for when the delivery man arrived! It was lucky since it was raining fairly hard today. I laid everything out so the sideart could flatten.
 

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I also got an isolation transformer see in the top left of the picture. Specs should be the same, but I will come back to that. I picked up a speaker, but since it is 6.5 inches it may not fit. The grill for the speaker does cover the entire speaker, so I may be wrong.
 

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Testing out the bezel and marquee. Everything seems to fit, but the marquee sits too low. Part of me thinks that the bracket is too far out and pushing it closer to the wood will raise the marquee. The other part of me just says to put in some filler to raise it a little.

I still need to put in the wood bracers to hold the bezel correctly.
 

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On with the sideart. People have seen this done numerous times, so I will let the pics do the talking.
 

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So, running into problems I didn't foresee, I attached the JAMMA adapter to the PCB and found that I don't have room for the harness. The easiest and possibly best way to get around this is to cut a notch out of the board to allow the wires through.

Otherwise, I made farther progress on the power board. I think I have the isolation transformer wired correctly, if anyone wants to check my work.
 

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I'm concerned about the exposed connectors on the power supply. That looks like a problem waiting to happen.
 
I'm concerned about the exposed connectors on the power supply. That looks like a problem waiting to happen.

On the isolation transformer? I will be adding solder and tubing to the quick connects after everything is in place. The top outside connects are for the monitor. Everything else is up to code.
 
Added the bezel bracing bracket, and marked out the area on the board that needs to be removed so the harness can be added.
 

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Since after asking, I am adding the cardboard shroud templates from @TheYeti (the blue ones) that Matthew Lee shared with me (the black ones) from the Arcade Restoration FB page. I may make an vector version later.
 

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Small steps today. Since my marquee seems to be a little short, I installed some screws to set it a little higher. I then installed the top marquee bracket after making sure the light inside was turned on. Oh, I also included an obligatory picture of the top showing how easy it is to clean with laminate installed. :D
 

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Untangling the JAMMA harness. I will bolster the power lines tonight and add a -5 volt line.
 

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That definitely looks better 😀. You still have those other windings exposed though. Check with a DMM when that supply is powered and I think you'll find plenty of zapping power there.
 
Got parts back from Steve today and found them to be correctly fitted. Now we are getting to the final stretches.

I was able to put a first primer coat on the CP, but found that I will probably use a matte black for the final coat to match the inside cabinet black we used.

Unfortunately, I can't find my CP bolts, retaining plate, or dust cover, so I may have to wait to put the CPO on. I have looked everywhere for them and keep coming up short. I even found a K7000 chassis I didn't even know I had, but can't find my parts.
 

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The remaining parts were found! This saves me about 40 USD in shipping alone. I did notice one of my coin mech mounting rivets is missing on the machine, but at this point, I don't care.

I installed the retaining plate. The rest will have to wait until tonight when I have less distractions.
 

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Well, I was going to do wiring, but found out that I was going to be doing woodworking tonight. I reinstalled the back wood brace with the slice taken out for the wiring. I was also able to glue the bezel holders and PCB bracers, then install the wiring plate. The wiring plate has three holes. The first for the switch, the middle for the power plug, and the largest for the ethernet cable. My DK PCB has a 3DK kit installed and has the online option. I will need an ethernet connection to upload scores.
 

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I swear. The closer you get to the end, the more work you find to do. Today, I did some of the power board and wiring work. I also sprayed the control panel.
 

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I sanded the lower corner of the control panel and added a quick spray of paint. I also finally bolstered the JAMMA harness with heavier gauge wire and set it up in the cabinet. (The first pics show how small the wiring was.)
 

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I prepped the wiring, assembled the control panel, and installed the latches. We are getting there.
 

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So I probably didn't take as many pictures as I should have here, but I just wanted to get to a point where I could actually play the game!

The first thing I did tonight was pilfer one of the speakers from my mostly empty Track and Field cabinet. (Not my working one.) I cleaned it and set it up. Eventually, I wired everything correctly, and held a big breath as I turned on the machine. I heard a FWUMP and the crackle of static. I also heard the loud noises of life from the PCB, so I immediately turned down the volume.

The grounding wire on my video plug was loose, so I took the molex and soldered the connectors instead of crimping them and tried again.

I didn't see a picture, so I fumbled with the flyback and saw a an image. "DHCP Error" was coming up. It was also upside down and mirrored. I turned off the machine and flipped two yoke wires. Unfortunately, the AC wires were loose and I took the lower plug housing off and attached them without the lower plug. I had to do this on my TnF as well.

I was still getting the DHCP error because I am not connected to the ethernet yet so I needed to change the setting. Normally, you do this by holding P1 Start while turning on the machine. It wasn't working.

I then inspected under the hood. The buttons weren't pushing the microswitches down. I angled them up and P1 worked, but P2 didn't. So I was able to then turn off the online function.

So, it works and functions. Still has some more work but at least it is playable. The main one for me is to figure out this interference going on in the image. Odd.
 

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