ThatArtGuy's Donkey Kong Scratch Build

The next part.
 

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And further. The first picture is Steve's tool for making his angle cuts. The second is me sanding down the finish on the plywood and adding primer so we can paint it black. (Thanks, Mick.)

So, the dry fit is a success! So now we can tweak things and add the final touches such as the coin box, base, etc.
 

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Attached the door and put in the bottom piece under the marquee now that it is painted black (cue percussion). Base also has been started.
 

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This is looking really good! And I love that you're using the quality materials that you are.

Brian puts a lot of effort into making the plans as accurate as possible, and I see him asking for feedback and measurements often. That said, getting them perfect is very tough. With the CP having the design that it does, cutting and drilling it before having the parts that match up to it was a big gamble. I wouldn't have taken that chance - there could even be variations in the originals (since we know there were ply and domestic particle versions.) In hindsight, I'm sure you wouldn't have either. Easy enough to cut one now that you have the plexi and other parts. Thankfully, only the CP!

Keep up the good work. This build makes me embarrassed about my home built cabinets.

Wade
 
Steve asked if I was available at lunch, so I hopped over to help him flip over the cab. Granted, the monitor isn't in there yet, but the cabinet must be half of weight of my Tron machine. That being said, the T-molding slot is cut and base attached. Next is the blocking in the base, and attaching wheels. The T-molding is on its way in the mail.
 

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Wheels were added, but were a little large, so the back panel was moved. Back door was made and the coin box is done. I was asked if the back of the coin box needed to be cut, or if the brace was enough. I said that it didn't really matter, so the back panel was left off.
New braces for the marquee were put in, and the lip at the top added. Paint will go on tomorrow hopefully.
 

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The cab has been delivered today! Painting was done this morning and dried this afternoon. I dusted off some of the sawdust and applied stickers. I also lined up and partially installed the light. The screws were too long, so I will find replacements. But now, upward and onward to other parts.
 

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I added the brackets to hold the frame. In order to get the monitor in, I had to temporarily remove the back brace. Since it was sunken screws, it allowed for it. The angle is slightly off, but it doesn't matter as it does its job.

I couldn't really put the chassis in the frame, but made the executive decision to place it on the wall. I really hate to put holes in the cab, as it is really nice, but it has to be functional.
 

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I'm sorry, why can't you put the chassis on the frame? On a real DK cab, the chassis should already be on the frame, and the monitor is installed through the front of the machine. I'm just a little confused.
If it was an EZ20, I would agree, but I couldn't find a way to get the K7000 to fit, unless someone has pictures.
 
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If it was an EZ20, I would agree, but I couldn't find a way to get the K7000 to fit, unless someone has pictures.
Yeah, I guess I missed that part about the K7000. But yes, there are creative ways to do it. Drilling into the sheet metal, adding standoffs, whatever.
 
I actually was able to do some work lately! I have acquired the parts for my power board and organized them. I noticed the groove for the bezel wasn't wide enough. I believe it was a 1.5mm difference. Steve is going to widen it for me. Fortunately, it was put in by screws only, so it wasn't a nightmare to remove.

I also placed some L brackets into the cab to hold the PCB. (It was put back onto the supergun for the time being.)
 

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Steve dropped off more parts for me. First, he widened the groove on the control panel brace to hold the bezel. The brace now sits correctly inside. He also gave me strips of wood to stabilize the PCB in the cabinet. I will need to get some wood glue for that part. He wasn't sure on the height, so he gave me two sizes.

The other parts are the plate for routing my power, putting in a power switch, and a hole to feed my ethernet cable through for my online 3DK kit. Unfortunately, my switch is the same depth as the plate, so that needs to be rectified. The second piece is for building my power board. I started tonight, but won't be able to get anywhere major until this weekend. Tomorrow my isolation transformer and my artwork package arrive, hopefully. We shall see how UPS delivers.
 

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Part of me realized that it might be smarter to put the switch before the filter, so changes were made.
 

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