Testing a HOT or Regulator

Dokert

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It seems that some people are having a hard time testing a Hot or a Regulator. Here are a few pics to help you out.

Most bottle cap transistors can be tested in this same manner.


G07 good HOT 2SD869

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G07 good Regulator 2SC1106

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4600 good Regulator 2SC1454

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4600 good HOT 2SC1893

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4600 bad HOT 2SC1893

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That's great, Dokert, thanks!
 
Is your DMM set to diode, continuity, or are they one and the same on your DMM?

Looks like I have some work to do in the garage tonight :D
 
Pictures show "Diode".

Yeah I saw that, but then on what looks like the same setting is the speaker sound image. I couldn't tell if they were both on the same setting on that DMM or if I was seeing something wrong on the pics.

Nevertheless this is great to see. Thanks Dave!
 
it might be a dumb question but im a newb. What is your DMM set too? Ohms??
Would be helpful.

Also does it matter where your positive lead is on the HOT or just put it anywhere on it?
 
it might be a dumb question but im a newb. What is your DMM set too? Ohms??
Would be helpful.

Also does it matter where your positive lead is on the HOT or just put it anywhere on it?


You want to look for the symbol that looks like this on your DMM:

diode.gif


It would be separate from the OHMS and Voltage section.
 
So I used the info from this thread to check the HOT and regulator on a G07 CB0 chassis that I am trying to bring back to life, and both the HOT and regulator provided the same results. When I turn my DMM to the diode symbol, it automatically defaults to "1" before I put the contacts on anything. When putting the contacts on the regulator and HOT in the fashion shown in Dave's pics, the reading would go from the default "1", to a misc 4-digit character (usually 13xx or 18xx) and then go right back to the "1".

I'm a little confused on what this signifies, since in the pics from Dave it shows that there should be a regular varying 4-digit reading that continues, and a "bad" HOT or regulator would show the value of "1" (I think). But then in another post about checking these components, someone wrote that they thought their HOT and/or regulator was OK because when they put the leads on the component, it showed "1". Is the "infinity" status the "1" reading, or the constantly-changing one?

This is a big help, thank you to all involved.
 
oh ok so you use the diode test to test the HOT and regular then. And a 4 digit number will signify that it is good?

Im also trying to bring a G07 back to life too. But i actually bought a new HOT for it and the whole kit from BR.

But i have the CAO chassis
 
So if both my regulator and HOT are reading "1" (which I'm interpreting as "bad" from this thread), what would have caused both of them to go out? Age? A surge? Other factors? I did notice also that the cap on the HOT appears to be corroded somewhat. It looks almost galvanized in appearance compared to the regulator. Is that because a different type of metal is used for the HOT vs. the regulator, or am I seeing perhaps an impact to the HOT from the elements or where the game was stored maybe?
 
i was using the diode test on my HOT and regulator last night and it would read a 4 digit number and then back to 1. like shutting on and off. The 4 numbers wouldn't stay up very long??

Whats that mean?

I had it on the diode test, its a self ranging meter too.
 
i was using the diode test on my HOT and regulator last night and it would read a 4 digit number and then back to 1. like shutting on and off. The 4 numbers wouldn't stay up very long??

Whats that mean?

I had it on the diode test, its a self ranging meter too.

That is what mine does. As I understand it, if it is "good", the 4-digit reading will keep changing in value but will basically still remain displaying a 4-digit combination (thus the "infinity" piece).

If it goes to "1" and stays, it's dead.
 
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