Terminator 2 Monitor troubles

Jamezterr

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I recently bought this Terminator 2 machine, and it seemed to work fine aside from being a little bruised up.

Played it for a while, multiple times, then all of a sudden while some family were playing it everything on the screen went black except for a few explosion type looking things, and they just kept going off.
So we decided to restart the machine and see if that fixes it, turns out after that the monitor never turned back on, just plays blind.

I think its worth mentioning something similar happend to my MK4 dedicated machine also, when it was playing the screen just randomly turned off and it started playing blind.
I had both of them plugged into the wall with a 2 prong converter plugin.

I am not very good with these things and am a novice, so I need some help, I tried to identify the monitor, but I am unsure if I found the right thing, so I am going to upload a few pics.

If you need anymore information, I will do my best to try and get it, just tell me what I need to do!

- Thanks a bunch, James.
 

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You have a 25" K7000 monitor. You should first check the fuse on the back left edge to see if it is bad. The start with a rebuild - new caps, check the HOT, VR, and maybe a flyback if you have small cracks around the focus or screen knobs...
 
BTW - these are notorious for bad solder and burnt traces around the horizontal width coil. Check the K7000 sticky at the top of the monitor help section for more ideas...
 
You mean the fuse on the boards on the side, or directly under the monitor?

Does this seem like perhaps a simple fix?

My luck is pretty bad I guess, my mk4 worked for exactly a week, and this week for like 1 or 2 days. >.>
 
On the board that is attached to the monitor under the tube, there is a small fuse located in the back near where the power wire goes into the board.

BTW - as for plugging this into an adapter with two prongs only and then into the wall, it sounds like your house has older wiring. You should get a surge protector, plug that into the wall, and plug your games into it....
 
I guess the easy question is, have you ever soldered anything before? cause that's what you're looking at with a rebuild.

EDIT: after reading the first post.... assumptions say, no?
 
No I have never soldered anything, I have no experience whatsoever in this field.

A little update though, I found that fuse you spoke of, it was a 2 volt, I went to the gas station they only had a 5 volt, I tried that in there, and the fuse instantly blew.

Does this mean anything? The fuse I pulled out had some black on it, and the one which just blew has some black on it.

Also is it worth mentioning some of the cords have some sticky stuff on em'?
Also alot of it is pretty cacked with old dust stuck to alot of it.
 
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Its happened to two of the machines now, do you think it is because of just plugging it straight into a wall plugin, or is it just coincidence?
 
1) NEVER use a fuse that is higher amperage than what is required, as it can cause more damage and even fire.

2) It's possible your game has no isolation transformer, or the monitor was connected without one at some point. This would cause damage to the power supply section of the monitor. but you could just have some failed parts that need replacing.

3) At this point, you might be better off paying someone to fix it for you. I charge $50 + parts + shipping (both ways) to fix a K7000 chassis. Full flyback, HOT, VR, and caps usually costs about $40 in parts, but not every chassis needs all of it. There are other monitor repair guys out there also, and you can ask around for a good recommendation.

4) Like I said, it's possible you have older wiring that is giving you some fluctuation in your line voltage. But it's just as likely that you are buying games that have monitors that haven't been rebuilt in a long time - if ever - and need some maintenance. I find it very common that buying a game from someone usually means I get something they haven't played in a year or more, and the stress of having it on a lot suddenly can be too much for old capacitors on a monitor chassis. But you should use a surge protector anyway...
 
Around here there is hardly anyone to work on such things, I live in a small community.
Will get the exact fuse and see if that helps.

ANything I should check with my continuity checker?
 
Around here there is hardly anyone to work on such things, I live in a small community.

There are a crapload of arcade folks in Minnesota, and the Post Office is even closer. Throw it in a Priority Mail box (with padding) and for a little over $10 you can send it to someone for repair. PayPal will help pay for it, and you get it back all fixed and ready to just put back in.

Will get the exact fuse and see if that helps.

Nope. If it blew the bigger fuse, then it will blow the smaller fuse.

ANything I should check with my continuity checker?

There is a sticky at the top of this forum section entitled "common K7000 problems". Start by reading it...
 
I did take a look at the sticky.

Just saying there is none locally, I live very up north in MN, several hundred miles away from the big cities, where most of the arcades listed and work are done.

So just to clarify I would be sending the board below the monitor, not the monitor itself?

Kind of exhausted alot of my funds atm, the machine cost 400 dollars, and then the 360 miles round trip. ( Yeah I know wasn't a very good deal . . )
 
Yes, you would send the board that is connected to the tube. There is the neckboard that needs to be pulled off, some connectors to undo, a wire to disconnect from the tube (discharge first), another wire to disconnect from the neckboard, and a couple screws to take out. Make sure to ship it with the remote adjustment board attached.

If you decide to have someone fix it for you, contact whomever and ask for rates. Once you find someone reliable and affordable (for you), get their contact info and send it off....
 
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