Tempest \ WG6100 - Need Some Suggestions (Help)

Stoonfer

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I bought a Tempest well over a year ago and the vectors were a bit wavy and figured I would do my first cap kit on a 6100. I moved it from the garage to the basement to work on it and it was then playing blind after the move.

OK, over 1 year later I'm just now getting to capping it. I did no diagnostics prior, I just installed Bob Roberts cap kit last evening. After installing I still had no picture. Spot killer is on, I have neck glow, fuses are not blown, when turning up the contrast I see the center dot (very unfocused), I hear no deflection board chatter, still plays blind. I do notice that I screwed-up. 2n3792 at Q706 has a bend pin, it missed the hole and was touching the chassis..damn.

I replace the transistor and check for continuity (lack of) on all and fire it up again. Same results but now the dot is very focused.

Tonight - I pull the boards and re-flow solder on all connectors including HV PCB, Deflector PCB, and Game PCB. Now the spot killer is on as before but no screen dot Game still plays blind.

I know I need to start checking voltage at P900. Being a bit of a newbie I need to know the proper procedure for testing this (talk to me like I'm 8 years old). Also, when the transistor made contact with the chassis, did take out other components? and finally, yes this appears to have a LV2000 installed but it looks like none that I have seen pictures of online. I have attached a picture that was taken before the cap kit. Thanks to anyone in advance that can assist.

Jeff
 

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Is fuse F700 blown? Both lights lit on the LV6100?

It's kind of a pain to get to Pin 5 of P900 to measure the B+. If you notice, the orange wire there goes to the neckboard. It is easier to measure it there.

BTW - did you recap the HV cage also? Double check that none of the wires on the 6 frame-mounted transistors has broken loose, and do a continuity check between the outer casing and the frame. if you get continuity, that transistor needs to be replaced - and make sure it has a mica insulator...
 
Got dvm?

First off if Q709 shorted to ground it could be burnt. If you have a bad transistor you might have taken other transistors with it.

Do you have a volt meter? Do you know how to use a volt meter?

Once you have a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) you can start to check Q706 and others that directly connected to it. Like Q103 and Q606 among others.

Most any DVM has a diode test and you can step thru each transistor and measure if it's good or not. I have purchased a digital meter at radio shack for as cheap as $25. Ask before you buy it if it has a diode check and my personal favorite feature is auto ranging.

If you get a DVM I can teach you a simple but very effective method to diagnose if transistors are good or not.
 
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Is fuse F700 blown? Both lights lit on the LV6100?



It's kind of a pain to get to Pin 5 of P900 to measure the B+. If you notice, the orange wire there goes to the neckboard. It is easier to measure it there.


BTW - did you recap the HV cage also? Double check that none of the wires on the 6 frame-mounted transistors has broken loose, and do a continuity check between the outer casing and the frame. if you get continuity, that transistor needs to be replaced - and make sure it has a mica insulator...


All fuses are good. Both lights on the LV6100 are on


So as far as metering Pin 5 I'm assuming the machine needs to be on but I'm alway nervous about poking around with a live 6100.

I did recap the cage. I know one other had continuity so it's probably fried. What is the best way to test these with a MM including all steps (monitor off or on)? Thanks for your help so far
 
First off if Q709 shorted to ground it could be burnt. If you have a bad transistor you might have taken other transistors with it.

Do you have a volt meter? Do you know how to use a volt meter?

Once you have a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) you can start to check Q706 and others that directly connected to it. Like Q103 and Q606 among others.

Most any DVM has a diode test and you can step thru each transistor and measure if it's good or not. I have purchased a digital meter at radio shack for as cheap as $25. Ask before you buy it if it has a diode check and my personal favorite feature is auto ranging.

If you get a DVM I can teach you a simple but very effective method to diagnose if transistors are good or not.




I actually do have a MM. If you have a quick effictive method of tesitng please passi it along. Thanks!!
 
Is it getting neck glow??? Also check for burnt or dis-colored resistors in the HV cage.
 
Is it getting neck glow??? Also check for burnt or dis-colored resistors in the HV cage.

It does have neck glow. Not real strong but it's there. I did not see any burnt resistors when inspecting it last evening.
 
It does have neck glow. Not real strong but it's there. I did not see any burnt resistors when inspecting it last evening.

A resistor can be bad and not look burnt. I'd OHM them out and see if any are open especially R903-R907.
 
If you have continuity on one casing to the frame, then you need to unplug the connector to that transistor then check again. If it's still there, replace it and verify it has the insulator in good condition for the new one. You can check the transistor at the connector (the three wires) just like any other transistor. Beeps (or zeroes) indicates a short. Even one bad transistor can cause the spot killer to come on...
 
transistor diode check

There are three contacts on transistors base emitter and collector. On the big metal transistors the round part is the collector(c). The pins are base (b) and emitter (e).

Meter short test
Put the meter in diode test and hold the two leads together. If it makes a ringing sound that means there is a short or no working diode between the leads. If at any time you are testing the diodes inside a transistor and you get this sound and you are not touching the same thing with both leads the transistor is bad.

Take the transistor out of the circuit to get the most reliable reading.

All of the same number or type of transistors will diode test the same way. You have 6 of the big metal transistors and two different numbers (92 0r 16). Q706 is a 92

Front to back test of a transistor
While in diode test hold one lead of your MM on the c with one hand. Then touch one of the pins with the other lead remember the value (it should be between .3 and .9 volts) or OL (out of limits). Do the same with the other pin. Then take lead and touch one pin and the other lead touch the other pin.

Swap the leads in your hands ( if red in r hand then red should be in the left hand) and perform the front to back test again because you are looking for the same response as the meter short test to confirm a transistor is bad.

The big transistors will only fail in this circuit as a short instead of an open.
 
Also make sure the wires are securely soldered to the sockets. If any wires are broken off it's the same symptom as a bad transistor.
 
There are three contacts on transistors base emitter and collector. On the big metal transistors the round part is the collector(c). The pins are base (b) and emitter (e).

Meter short test
Put the meter in diode test and hold the two leads together. If it makes a ringing sound that means there is a short or no working diode between the leads. If at any time you are testing the diodes inside a transistor and you get this sound and you are not touching the same thing with both leads the transistor is bad.

Take the transistor out of the circuit to get the most reliable reading.

All of the same number or type of transistors will diode test the same way. You have 6 of the big metal transistors and two different numbers (92 0r 16). Q706 is a 92

Front to back test of a transistor
While in diode test hold one lead of your MM on the c with one hand. Then touch one of the pins with the other lead remember the value (it should be between .3 and .9 volts) or OL (out of limits). Do the same with the other pin. Then take lead and touch one pin and the other lead touch the other pin.

Swap the leads in your hands ( if red in r hand then red should be in the left hand) and perform the front to back test again because you are looking for the same response as the meter short test to confirm a transistor is bad.

The big transistors will only fail in this circuit as a short instead of an open.

Thanks for taking the time to explain this. I also found some good tutorials on Youtube including this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REW2lF0sb74

I will continue working on this tomorrow and let you know how I make out. I appreciate all that have responded so far.
 
If I have been a help to you give me a positive feedback on my XY4u page.
 
If I have been a help to you give me a positive feedback on my XY4u page.

I think that's for sale transactions only, not for giving advice. If that was the case people like modessitt and others would have 1000+ feedback scores! lol
 
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So I finally got around to working on this again today. Went through all the chassis transistors and had to replace one and fix one that had connectivity between it and the chassis. I notice now that the F5 fuse is blowing immediately. I Replaced the fuse and removed the monitor from the mix and still have F5 blowing. Anyone know what this runs and what can be causing it to blow?
 
When you replaced the transistor, did you remember to put the insulator between it and the frame? if not, then it blew again and could be blowing your fuse.

And where is F5? On the power brick? The chassis doesn't have a fuse marked F5...
 
When you replaced the transistor, did you remember to put the insulator between it and the frame? if not, then it blew again and could be blowing your fuse.

And where is F5? On the power brick? The chassis doesn't have a fuse marked F5...

F5 and F4 are on the power brick. It looks like I may have some diodes out on the ARll board.

I double checked all chassis transistors and none were making contact with the chassis.
 
Got back to working on this again today. Rebuilt the ARII board and the game now plays again and has sound, f4 and f5 are no longer blowing, but still no monitor

I can now hear crackling when the monitor is warming-up (didn't have that before) but the spot killer is still on and the dot on the screen can now be seen again but is off-center.

I hope I can figure this out soon. I promised myself I will not work on any of my pin projects until this is resolved. Plus, I really want to play this awesome game!
 
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