Tempest WG 6100 where to start?

Raaron12

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Donor 2012
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So the monitor in my tempest caberet is not working. The game appears to play blind but i do not have any sound either. All of the LED's are on and one of the fuses either the f100 or f101 was blown but i replaced it and did not blow again. I got the cabinet from my father who purchased it brand new back in the 80's and it is all original. My father had someone look at it and they said it was the 2n3792 resistor. I have checked the voltage on the resistors and all of them read 14.2 or 14.4 somewhere around there except for 2n3792 which was around 12.2. I am not getting any voltage reading from the deflection pcb at fuses f101 or f100. I have looked around at other posts and some websites found a flowchart and some other useful info but it did not get me anywhere. I am planning on purchasing an lv2000 and probably a big blue and replacing the resistor with the low voltage. Do you think this is a good place to start, also should i replace all the resistors or just the one? How do i test the PSU and the HV cage? What else should i be looking at and where else should i be checking voltages or taking resistance readings? Thanks in advance for your help.
 
You say you don't have sound or video? Check the AR2 and make sure it is working. Look at r29 and r30 and see if they are fried, that's common. Test voltages at the test points on the pcb and on the ar2. The manual should tell you where these are. The monitor will not work if the game is dead. The fact that you have nothing makes me think power supply aka AR2.
 
Hi
There are some basics then a lot of reading needed

2n3792's are transistors. Usually they all get replaced if servicing a WG6100

When you measured voltage at fuses f101 or f100, what multimeter scale were you on? Should of been AC Volts
There should be 25VAC between GND and Fuse 100, and 25VAC between GND and Fuse 101

If you still get no volts there on the AC Scale, I would start there. The Main Power transformer supplies the 50VAC centre tapped or CT (IE: 2 x 25V) directly to there (When working) via the 15Pin Floating plug P100
 
So I am used to working on cars and had my meter set to DC volts. I measured the R29 got 10.2 AC but at R30 I got nothing 0 volts. At F100 i measured 23.5v and at F101 I got 23.3V. The voltages seemed a little low so i measured the fuses on the fuse block and got 23.8V at F2 9.5V at F3 16.9V at F4 I first got 0V then got 16.9V at F5 and nothing 0V at F6. So it looks like i might not have a monitor problem yet and should start with the PSU and PCB's. So where should my next step be I am thinking starting at the PSU but should I test the game board or the AR2, should i replace the R30 or what? Thank you everyone for your help so far.
 
If the game is playing blind, the problem is not on the AR board. Check the +5vdc on your main board just to see where it is and then focus on the monitor. The monitor probably needs a total rebuild. Best place to start is with a Bob Roberts deluxe kit that cost $40.

Is the red led on the monitor deflection board lit or flashing ?
 
You may also want to put it in test mode to see if you get any graphics at all. Test screens will appear usually. There will be a switch in the coin door to do this.
 
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You may also want to put it in test mode to see if you get any graphics at all. Test screens will appear usually. There will be a switch in the coin door to do this.

It's on a panel on top of the cashbox slot on the cabaret… And the slam switch (which you use to cycle through the test screens) is located on the inside of the cabinet, under the speaker. Way harder to get at than on the UR.
 
It's on a panel on top of the cashbox slot on the cabaret… And the slam switch (which you use to cycle through the test screens) is located on the inside of the cabinet, under the speaker. Way harder to get at than on the UR.

Oops sorry abt that I have a UR
 
I have tried getting test mode to work with the slam switch but have not been able to get it to work, tonight when i tried again i thought i heard 1 beep but i did not hear anything after that and when trying again did not hear anything. When i first started trying to figure out what is going on with the game i had blinking lights on the 1p 2p buttons, when i would press the button it would remain solid. Now when i turn the game on i have no blinking lights unless i have the test switch flipped, then the lights on the 1p 2p buttons remain solid. There is no HV being generated no static at all, i do have neck glow though. I have 3 boards with lit LED's none of them are flashing. The +5vdc and the +5v near the LED on the board both read 4.9 DC volts and 10.2 AC volts. When i measured the +5vdc on the main board the lead from my meter slid across the lood and the LED went out for a second or dimmed a little i am not sure if that means anything. I have tried turning up the brightness all the way to see if i get a dot in the center of the screen but get nothing. Tonight when i was checking voltages i thought there was a burning smell coming from the HV cage or near there. I know there is a loop at the top of the board for the coin doors and slam switch and i thought i read in another post about making a jumper to it is that possible?
 
No. It should be a 10 ohm resistor, meter it, if it's good, leave it alone. If you have +5 at the main board, then don't worry about your AR board. You need to determine if your spot killer light is on first.
 
First confirm that the main board functions, what are the output votages from the main board for x and y out? If the monitor has not been rebuilt get the kit and do it. Sounds like you have no HV. Is there vector chatter when it is on? If I were to start working on this the first thing I would do is replace the interconnect molex connectors on the mail board just to eliminate that weak point and I would reseat all the socketed chips. Then I would rebuild the monitor and reflow most solder joints on the deflection and HV pcbs. Before even plugging the monitor in I would check and make sure I'm getting the correct range of voltage from the XY outputs on the main board, basically it should not be idle and not be higher than +-15v. Do all that then post.
 
He said earlier that the HV cage had a burn smell so it sounds like he needs to open that up snd see if any caps turned into confetti....
 
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