Tempest restore running but with issues

masterfx

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Finally got my Tempest restore working but some issues. I have Jason Kopp tempest board and IM wondering what that runs under load? I tested the 5vdc on the power board disconnected and was getting 5.3v. When I connect the board Im getting 3.8v. Reason I even checked is because Im getting some slight bounce to the screen and scores disappear off and on during game play. My spinner also only spins one way and is extremely sensitive. When I test the spinner (to the right) both left and right register. I recapped my power board, and it all checked out before I plugged the tempest board in. Shouldn't I be getting a solid 5v while running? Any ideas? Thanks!

Video of the score and lives flickering when I hit fire. Flicker
 
Last edited:
5.3 is adjusted too high.

Assuming a AR2 is powering everything. Last time I ran into this (voltage drop with load) the TIP102 was bad.
 
Finally got my Tempest restore working but some issues. I have Jason Kopp tempest board and IM wondering what that runs under load? I tested the 5vdc on the power board disconnected and was getting 5.3v. When I connect the board Im getting 3.8v. Reason I even checked is because Im getting some slight bounce to the screen and scores disappear off and on during game play. My spinner also only spins one way and is extremely sensitive. When I test the spinner (to the right) both left and right register. I recapped my power board, and it all checked out before I plugged the tempest board in. Shouldn't I be getting a solid 5v while running? Any ideas? Thanks!

Video of the score and lives flickering when I hit fire. Flicker
are you the guy i spoke to on facebook with the fred monitor kit and the bent spinner opto?

if not the issue in your video is the spot killer circuit. replace the 4 spot killer caps. the issue with your spinner could be a missing connection from one of your spinner lines or the opto could have been bumped and moved during installation.
 
are you the guy i spoke to on facebook with the fred monitor kit and the bent spinner opto?

if not the issue in your video is the spot killer circuit. replace the 4 spot killer caps. the issue with your spinner could be a missing connection from one of your spinner lines or the opto could have been bumped and moved during installation.
Im the guy!
 
Replace the 2N3055 bottlecap transistor on the AR. I can't speak for how Jason's board works, but if it's using the 5V, the AR could be dropping under load, which can happen when the 3055 is bad. This is a common issue on AR's. Any AR should have its 3055 replaced, as they all have a lot of mileage on them, and they do fail. But if you replace it, you'll be good for another 40 years. Be sure to get a legitimate replacement (I recommend arcadepartsandrepair.com), as there are a lot of fakes out there. Do not order from ebay, Aliexpress, Amazon, or Arcadeshop. Here:


For the spot killer caps, you want 1uF, 50V electrolytics. I prefer these ceramic ones from Digikey, which are smaller:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/tdk-corporation/FK24X7R1H105KR000/2815447

APAR also has these, which technically should also work. You only need four for the deflection board (C800-C803) :

 
Replace the 2N3055 bottlecap transistor on the AR. I can't speak for how Jason's board works, but if it's using the 5V, the AR could be dropping under load, which can happen when the 3055 is bad. This is a common issue on AR's. Any AR should have its 3055 replaced, as they all have a lot of mileage on them, and they do fail. But if you replace it, you'll be good for another 40 years. Be sure to get a legitimate replacement (I recommend arcadepartsandrepair.com), as there are a lot of fakes out there. Do not order from ebay, Aliexpress, Amazon, or Arcadeshop. Here:


For the spot killer caps, you want 1uF, 50V electrolytics. I prefer these ceramic ones from Digikey, which are smaller:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/tdk-corporation/FK24X7R1H105KR000/2815447

APAR also has these, which technically should also work. You only need four for the deflection board (C800-C803) :

what andy said for someone using an original monitor^^
the tempest multi does not use 5v from the ar2. it regulates its own. the spot killer issue was due to using the fred/barry deflection board. (its spot killer is less sensitive)
 
what andy said for someone using an original monitor^^
the tempest multi does not use 5v from the ar2. it regulates its own. the spot killer issue was due to using the fred/barry deflection board. (its spot killer is less sensitive)


Yeah, I know you've said that before for other boards, I wasn't sure how this one worked.

And it seems strange that he's seeing the 5V change, if the board isn't using the 5V at all. But I figured I'd mention it anyway.

If this is a Barry board, how does replacing the spot killer caps fix things? (What caps need to be replaced, and with what values?)
 
Yeah, I know you've said that before for other boards, I wasn't sure how this one worked.

And it seems strange that he's seeing the 5V change, if the board isn't using the 5V at all. But I figured I'd mention it anyway.

If this is a Barry board, how does replacing the spot killer caps fix things? (What caps need to be replaced, and with what values?)
replacing caps will do nothing on barrys board.
the reason that board is not as sensitive is because the spot killer led its self is part of the spot killer circuit. a modern led was used in its place which draws less current. the "fix" is to use a lower value resistor at r14 and its mirrored resistor on the other side of the pcb. (this is r22 and r23 on the amplifone iirc) it is 600 ohm and 300 ohm was a better fit but this did not change anything for the op (like it usually does). his fix was to increase the picture size a bit.
yeah the voltage thing is weird as the tempest multi feeds 5v to it. i don't remember what he did but everything is working now. sounds to me like the 3.8v was a measure of the optos output rather than its power supply.
maybe @masterfx could fact check that
 
replacing caps will do nothing on barrys board.
the reason that board is not as sensitive is because the spot killer led its self is part of the spot killer circuit. a modern led was used in its place which draws less current. the "fix" is to use a lower value resistor at r14 and its mirrored resistor on the other side of the pcb. (this is r22 and r23 on the amplifone iirc) it is 600 ohm and 300 ohm was a better fit but this did not change anything for the op (like it usually does). his fix was to increase the picture size a bit.
yeah the voltage thing is weird as the tempest multi feeds 5v to it. i don't remember what he did but everything is working now. sounds to me like the 3.8v was a measure of the optos output rather than its power supply.
maybe @masterfx could fact check that
Hey, yea Jason, all voltages are correct now. I posted this before speaking to you on FB. I appreciate everyone's input!
 
yeah klov is a lot less active but at least you filter out some of the bad advise here.
I used to be in regional arcade groups on Facebook many years ago and then one day I just said no more and left all of them. then I heard rumors about these repair groups and how bad they were. like I don't know who was suggesting drilling solder out but that person needs to be kicked in the junk about 300 times. I am in the Pinball Repair one, like if I have a crack at being one of the first 3 replies, I'll post. when it gets to like 30+ replies where everyone is like "GET A MPU/DRIVER COMBO BOARD REPLACEMENT!!!" that's when I just hard pass. I take it to be an insult of my intelligence when it gets to that point.
 
I used to be in regional arcade groups on Facebook many years ago and then one day I just said no more and left all of them. then I heard rumors about these repair groups and how bad they were. like I don't know who was suggesting drilling solder out but that person needs to be kicked in the junk about 300 times. I am in the Pinball Repair one, like if I have a crack at being one of the first 3 replies, I'll post. when it gets to like 30+ replies where everyone is like "GET A MPU/DRIVER COMBO BOARD REPLACEMENT!!!" that's when I just hard pass. I take it to be an insult of my intelligence when it gets to that point.
i get it the guy who suggested that is well known has many years under his belt repairing pcbs too. WTF LOL
just goes to show experience is not the same as knowledge and knowledge is not the same as wisdom.
 
i get it the guy who suggested that is well known has many years under his belt repairing pcbs too. WTF LOL
just goes to show experience is not the same as knowledge and knowledge is not the same as wisdom.
PM me their name. lol
 
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