Checked it again, 0.9V XOUT, 0.8V YOUT AC, in test mode.I can't remember the order now. I'll check them the next time I have a chance.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Checked it again, 0.9V XOUT, 0.8V YOUT AC, in test mode.I can't remember the order now. I'll check them the next time I have a chance.
Checked it again, 0.9V XOUT, 0.8V YOUT AC, in test mode.
Yep. I suspect the pots at least as a starting point. Will have a closer look hopefully this weekend.You normally shouldn't have exactly zero DC. There should be some.
And the AC should be higher than a volt. You can doublecheck in attract more, but unless your XY size pots are dialed all the way down, it sounds like something isn't right.



Congrats. Gotta love the feeling of accomplishment.Last follow-up: settings dialed in, fully functional. The vector weirdness I was seeing before the monitor went out is gone, could well have been due to the (presumed) failing LV2K and/or transistor.
First time I've ever repaired a monitor on my own. Insert joke about old dogs and new tricks at your leisure...
@andrewb can you confirm some transistor theory from what I believe is an accurate recollection. I can't find my Veatch book. Or a replacement yet.
The voltages on the X and Y outputs: the DC voltage is present to keep the transistor biased on while the AC voltage, riding on the DC, generates the signal.
To high a DC could send the transistor into clipping, as the DC bias voltage is actually 0 as far as the AC signal is concerned.
I think I blew the dust off of this accurately.
Thanks