Tempest missing LEFT side of screen

oktobernv

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Ok

Go Tempest up and running - sort of

Not blind - but now the entire LEFT side of the screen is missing

See attached pic

LV2000 is installed

Spot killer is off

All 6 of the bottlecap transistors have been changed

???

Thx

Rob
 

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  • tempest half screen.JPG
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Well, check those bottlecaps again, as a misaligned one or one without an insulator will short out and go bad. And check the wiring to those sockets, as sometimes they break off.

And of course, check the solder to the connectors to those transistors.

otherwise, you'd have to check the circuits on the back side of the deflection board around Q603/Q703/Q604/Q704 and related parts. I once found someone had replaced a 1.6k-ohm resistor with a 1.6-ohm resistor, effectively shunting that part of the deflecttion circuit directly to ground, and causing collapse on one side....
 
Mod - thanks for the tips

Will do

Also - can you please help me verify that I have the CORRECT bottlecap transistors in the CORRECT locations??

Starting with the TWO on the bottom of the chassis

the one in the back - closest to the tube is part # 2N3716

The 2nd on on the bottom of the chasis is part # 2N3792

Then there are FOUR on the left side of the chasis

Starting from the TOP and working down:

Top one is part # 2N3792

Then the are two that are sort of right in a straight line apart from each other

located in the side of the chasis right about middle in

The one located closest to the back side of the game is 2N3716

The located closest to the tube is part # 2N3716

Then the last one closest to the bottom of the side chasis is a 2N3792

Are these correct?

Thanks in advance

Rob
 
I'd have to go dig mine out to be sure, but if you're ever in doubt about one, know that the same wire colors go to the same transistors, so all 3716's will have the same wire colors, and all 3792's will have the same wire colors...
 
Thx Mode

Ok - here's is what I have done today

Removed and tested all 6 bottlecap transistors. All were good

Verified that all bottlecap transistors were in the correct location. They were

Checked to make sure there was NO continuity between the bottlecaps and the chasis -

There was no continuity....

Checked all fuses - all fuses good

LV 2000 has both LED's on

Spot killer is OFF


Still only got 1/2 screen

:(

Arggggggggg TEMPEST!!!!
 
Next time, don't bother removing the transistors to check them. Just test them at the connectors to the deflection board (unplugged of course).

Seems like you need to get a little more in depth with your deflection board...
 
Could be a couple things on the deflection board. Once you pull the deflection board off the frame inspect the solder joints on the solder side of the board, a bad solder joint can cause the condition in the picture. Next look for burnt resistors on the board especially below and around the large resistors next to the big head sinks. Lastly check the transistors that have the heat sinks. To test them properly, they need to be removed from the board. Hopefully it is just the first issue with cold solder joints...
 
Jim

Thank You kindly for your suggestions

I will follow them and report back

Much respect for all the knowledge and help found here.

Rob in Vegas

:)
 
morning bump on this


any other thoughts / suggestions before I dig back into this?


thx much,

Rob
 
The 6100 FAQ has a lot of good information:
1) p.26 has a diagram, which bottlecap transistors belong in what location
2) p.25 has a description of which bottlecap transistor is responsible for which part of the screen. It looks like you have a problem with Q605 (-X (left) for vertical)

Based on this, I would swap Q605 with Q705 and see if the problem moves to the top of the screen (bad transistor) or stays missing left side (connecter/wiring issue or bad signal going to Q605).

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/FAQ Wells Gardner 6100 Version 1.0 dated 1 Mar 02.pdf
 
morning bump on this


any other thoughts / suggestions before I dig back into this?


thx much,

Rob


Double check the solder joints going to those can transistors. If you removed them to test, then you know they're good... but you don't know if the wires running to them are good.

I worked on a Tempest that did pretty much the same thing your's is doing, and even though the wires looked good going to the mounts for those transistors one of them was open. A quick solder tack and she was back to full screen.
 
Ok

gone through all the boards

found a few weak solder joints - re-flowed

ready to fire it back up again

QUESTION BEFORE I DO

I re-checked all the bottlecap transistors to make sure that there was NO continuity to the frame. All showed NO continuity


But, NOW that I have everything reconnected (deflection, neck, HV boards, anode cap) ect

I AM getting continuity when checking the bottlecaps against the frame


I am ASSUMING that that this is because there is now a natural circuit being made by all the boards be reconnected to each other

Is this correct???

or should there NEVER be any continuity between the bottlecaps and the frame

I want to be sure before I power back up

Thanks much

Rob
 
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If you have no continuity with the connector undone, then you should be good. You'll know quickly, as a fuse will blow if not...
 
Thanks Mode.....

what is weird is that I opened up my Star Wars last night and checked all the bottlecaps (with all boards connected) and they all show no continuity to the frame.

Strange why star wars would behave differently with everything tied in and Tempest changes once all the boards are connected together again.

Considering it's basically the same setup. WG 6100 and all.....

That is what got me spooked.

Also, it's ONLY the 3 2N3792 bottlecaps that are SHOWING continuity to the chassis now. Those are the ones with the purple, blue and yellow wires attached.


Any rhyme or reason as to why that might be?

Talked to a "local" old-school tv repair tech this morning

His thoughts were: "you might be metering the deflection coils" once the boards are all connected back together and hence getting continuity between the bottlecaps and the chassis.

??

Thx

Rob
 
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Someone STOP me before I plug this thing back in!! :)

see my last two posts

Are we safe to go forward here?

Committee consensus?

Thanks much,

Rob
 
if you have a difference between readings on the 6100 in your tempest and the 6100 in your star wars, then you probably have a problem with the one in your tempest. Checking the continuity to the frame isn't the only way to check them. Unplug the connectors from the deflection board and do diode checks between all three wires in every configuration of black and red leads to make sure none (or all) aren't shorted...
 
Finally got tempest (aka "pain in the azz) back up and running.

Turns out 2 diodes on the deflection boards were bad.

Replaced (again) all the bottlecap transistors.

Up and running now :)

Thanks again to ALL who helped out with this repair.

MUCH respect.

Rob
 
Finally got tempest (aka "pain in the azz) back up and running.

Turns out 2 diodes on the deflection boards were bad.

Replaced (again) all the bottlecap transistors.

Up and running now :)

Thanks again to ALL who helped out with this repair.

MUCH respect.

Rob

Don't suppose you could say WHICH 2 diodes were bad?
 
Hmmmm....

sorry... couldn't say with any certainty now

It's been several months since this repair was done

Don't remember exactly which two it was.....

But, they are easy and cheap to swap

If you are having a similar issue I would just change them all

Cheap and easy

Best of luck

Thx

Rob
 
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