Tempest - Is this a board or monitor issue?

blkdog7

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Sorry, for the sideways photos...

The picture on my Tempest is compressed and imploded in the center of the screen. I don't think I have a bad frame transistor out because if I did wouldn't it evenly cut off half of the screen or have more of a single line collapse or the spot killer on? Not sure, but that's what I think.

I played with the PCB adjustment pots and can't make it any better.

I adjusted the powersupply 'til I was reading 5v on the PCB.

Should I be looking at the monitor or PCB first for this one? What do you think?

Thanks in advance for the help!

temp_1.jpg


temp_2.jpg
 
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Well I've not seen a 6100 do anything like that. I have seen board problems similar to it, just not as compressed in the center like that.

I would do the normal easy stuff on the board first.

Check your +-15v, 6.8v, and your analog +5 all of those test points are in the video out section.

then I would re-flow the interconnect headers and make sure you are getting connection.

Problems getting signals to the aux board can cause similar issues.
 
Talon is right. Resolder the board interconnect connectors. The most common Tempest problem.
 
Buy a Vectorvga and hook it up to a LCD monitor so you can see if it's the monitor or board issue.
 
Well I've not seen a 6100 do anything like that. I have seen board problems similar to it, just not as compressed in the center like that.

I would do the normal easy stuff on the board first.

Check your +-15v, 6.8v, and your analog +5 all of those test points are in the video out section.

then I would re-flow the interconnect headers and make sure you are getting connection.

Problems getting signals to the aux board can cause similar issues.

I checked all voltages in the video section. They are all pretty much right on the money. +-15v, 6.8v, and +5. I also checked the voltages on the AUX board, same thing. Great voltages.

I reflowed the headers for the cable that connects the main board to the AUX board. I also tested continuity pin to pin after reflowing. Great connectivity.

And... I still have the same issue. :( Any other ideas?

I do have a spare (non-working) board. I was thinking about swapping chips, but I'm just guessing now. :p
 
I would try swapping boards before parts. At least narrow it down to main or aux.

Ok, I swapped boards. I put the AUX board from PCB #2 on PCB #1 and I get the same exact results. And, I did vice versa and PCB #2 is still dead (spot killer comes on as soon as the game boots).

So... I think it is safe to assume that I have two bad main PCBs here and two good AUX PCBs.

For the hell of it, I swapped 6502s, same deal.
 
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Ok, I swapped boards. I put the AUX board from PCB #2 on PCB #1 and I get the same exact results. And, I did vice versa and PCB #2 is still dead (spot killer comes on as soon as the game boots).

So... I think it is safe to assume that I have two bad main PCBs here and two good AUX PCBs.

For the hell of it, I swapped 6502s, same deal.


I'm no expert for sure but I just had nearly the exact same issue. I had a set I got repaired twice and bought a second set since the repaired set looked just like yours. The new set came, I played for 5 minutes and the spot killer came on. I moved the edge connector around and it came on then a resistor on th power board lit up. I replaced that and cleaned the edges real good, still spot killer. Swapped boards around and cleaned edges again and my old main PCB worked with the new AUX board. But only after really cleaning the ege connectors.
 
I believe Billtronics sells chips so you don't have to have the Aux board.
 
I'm no expert for sure but I just had nearly the exact same issue. I had a set I got repaired twice and bought a second set since the repaired set looked just like yours. The new set came, I played for 5 minutes and the spot killer came on. I moved the edge connector around and it came on then a resistor on th power board lit up. I replaced that and cleaned the edges real good, still spot killer. Swapped boards around and cleaned edges again and my old main PCB worked with the new AUX board. But only after really cleaning the ege connectors.

You cleaned the edges on the PCB or the actual connector?

I'm getting good voltages on the PCB everywhere, so not sure what's up.

I need to test my boards in a friends cab or test a known working PCB in my cab to really know what's up here. That's next for me unless anyone has any great ideas.
 
i tried a friends board in my machine tonight and the monitor works perfect. This is a board issue!
 
I'm running into issue after issue of flakey sockets on my Tempest boards. I'm replacing them 1 by 1 and things are getting more solid.

Push on your chips and see if you can things to change. If so, start replacing with mill max strip sockets - ROCK solid.
 
Dog, did you find a replacement game board? I have a line on one if you need?
 
You cleaned the edges on the PCB or the actual connector?

I'm getting good voltages on the PCB everywhere, so not sure what's up.

I need to test my boards in a friends cab or test a known working PCB in my cab to really know what's up here. That's next for me unless anyone has any great ideas.


On the PCB.
 
Perhaps it is possible one of your CRT adjustment pots is bad. If your turning pots and it makes no difference at all maybe your horizontal or vertical adjustment pot has a faulty soldier joint or just failing.
 
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