Tempest from scratch, need reference images and couple questions

masterfx

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Anyone have some detailed images of the guts of the machine? I have an empty cab and am getting new harness and repo everything for the most part. I have the manual but Id like to see some original images for wiring etc. I dont want to blow something up when I power on.

Three additional questions:
I bought a florescent light from arcade shop and a starter. Im looking at the manual diagram and there is a transformer up there by the speaker. Do I need that part as well or can I bypass it? If not, what part can I buy?

Bridge rectifier. Can someone tell me what pins go where on the new part I purchased? I attached image of old one that is being replaced.

Last, does anyone know where I can get those cardboard covers for the fuse box and repros of the Atari serial stickers that are on the back? Thanks!
 

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You're better off skipping the fluorescent light/ballast/starter, and just using a $2 LED light bar, that you can clip to the 10.3V test point on the AR. They use less power, are simpler, don't wear out, and make the marquee look better. I have a post about this here:


Also here:


And here's the difference in what it looks like (LED on the right):

attachment.php




Regarding the rectifier, the wiring diagram in the schematics shows the connections:

1756496676013.png


The + and - are labeled on the rectifier. The other two wires (with the squiggles) are the AC input to the rectifier, and the order for those doesn't matter.


The cardboard covers can be cut from a piece of fishpaper (ebay). I don't think anyone sells repros at the moment. Most people just cut their own. See this thread:



I don't know if/who is selling repro Atari stickers these days. Use the Advanced Thread Search to search for it, I know there have been repros made in the past. @Phetishboy might know more.
 
You're better off skipping the fluorescent light/ballast/starter, and just using a $2 LED light bar, that you can clip to the 10.3V test point on the AR. They use less power, are simpler, don't wear out, and make the marquee look better. I have a post about this here:


Also here:


And here's the difference in what it looks like (LED on the right):

attachment.php




Regarding the rectifier, the wiring diagram in the schematics shows the connections:

View attachment 843081


The + and - are labeled on the rectifier. The other two wires (with the squiggles) are the AC input to the rectifier, and the order for those doesn't matter.


The cardboard covers can be cut from a piece of fishpaper (ebay). I don't think anyone sells repros at the moment. Most people just cut their own. See this thread:



I don't know if/who is selling repro Atari stickers these days. Use the Advanced Thread Search to search for it, I know there have been repros made in the past. @Phetishboy might know more.
+ top, ground on bottom. Does this look right?
 

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Yeah, I think that label ship has sailed. IJoeG pretty much disappeared from the forums a few years ago. He did great work, but I think he just got overwhelmed.

IMG_4114.jpeg
 
You're better off skipping the fluorescent light/ballast/starter, and just using a $2 LED light bar, that you can clip to the 10.3V test point on the AR. They use less power, are simpler, don't wear out, and make the marquee look better. I have a post about this here:


Also here:


And here's the difference in what it looks like (LED on the right):

attachment.php




Regarding the rectifier, the wiring diagram in the schematics shows the connections:

View attachment 843081


The + and - are labeled on the rectifier. The other two wires (with the squiggles) are the AC input to the rectifier, and the order for those doesn't matter.


The cardboard covers can be cut from a piece of fishpaper (ebay). I don't think anyone sells repros at the moment. Most people just cut their own. See this thread:



I don't know if/who is selling repro Atari stickers these days. Use the Advanced Thread Search to search for it, I know there have been repros made in the past. @Phetishboy might know more.
I cant find the LED strip from any links. Do you have an update for the right one?
 
If I go the 12v LED light, can I just wire the 120v that goes to florescent into this transformer? I ask because I have this transformer and I could just do it that way?


with this light:
 
You could just use an original light fixture that already uses 120v. 😉

Scott C.
 
Lots of threads out here on this. A ballast bypass style led buld will plug into the existing fixture and use 120VAC. The fixture will need to be rewired to accomodate the bulb you choose, and to bypass the starter and ballast. This is a clean, reversible option.
 
I cant find the LED strip from any links. Do you have an update for the right one?

Just search ebay for 'LED light bar aluminum 5630'. They are usually less than $2 each. Get a bunch for your other games. Here you go:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/233069330697

You can get cold or warm temp. (I'd order some of both, as some games look better with one vs the other.) And get the milky diffuser.

Going this route is simplest, as you eliminate the transformer, and all of the fluorescent assembly entirely. These bars are tiny, super bright, and will last forever. And all you need to do for power is clip LED bar to the 10.3V and GND test points on the AR (which you can do by adding a couple of these grabber hooks to the ends of the wires that you run down to the AR: )

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204525446201
 
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