Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Monitor Color / Video Issue - YouTube of Issue TMNT

Jake13

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Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Monitor Color / Video Issue - YouTube of Issue TMNT

Hello,
I am having an issue w/ my TMNT game.
I have added a link to a YouTube video of my machine w/ the issues below.
Charachter movements are choppy and there appears to be a moving horizontal bar (not the thin black bar that moves from top to bottom in the video, that is just from filming and does not appear in the game) in the background that effects the colors of the charachters (and sometimes the doors in the background).
As you can see the turtles are (mostly) black in the opening scene w/ Splinter(whos color is also off), then during gameplay you will notice leonardo turn purple. Has anyone experienced this before and/or know what the issue is? Could it be the monitor? (I re-seated all the chips on the PCB and adjusted the monitor dials). Any suggestions, advice or theories are appreciated!
Thank you!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5c7Tfx420u4
 
Can you take a picture of inside of the cabinet?
Maybe the power supply cables to the gameboard?
How are the caps on the gameboard? All the legs on secure? Any missing?

A couple lines in I thought the board, then I thought you might need a cap kit on the monitor chasis. After watching the video hope its not both.
 
It's the Board

I moved the board to a different cabinet, and put a different board in the TMNT cabinet and the problem goes w/ the PCB, the other board works fine in TMNT box.

All of the caps on the TMNT board look fine.

Any ideas where on the TMNT board this may be coming from?

Thank you!
 
YOu lightly pushed and pulled on them and they were all down solid?
See any white circles on the board with no cap in it?
DOn't notice any other spots where somthing is missing?
You've wiped down the contacts and made sure all eprom are down good.
Next check you traces on the board, see if any traces look suspect.
 
That´s definitely not a monitor problem, you should send pcb to repair, send a hq photo of both sides of pcb if you´ll tackle it to see if there would be anything suspicious.. but if everything is ok, you won´t have no choice..
 
Hey everybody,
Thank you for the feedback!

Nothing on the board looks suspect to me, but I will upload a high-res image of both sides when I get home later tonight.
Does anyone have suggestions on where to send for repair?

About the Smash TV: Sorry, but it's not for sale; it's one of my favorites and by far my nicest condition cabinet; took me about a year of looking and a 5 hour drive to get it!
I got it this past spring and paid $450; it came w/ a 2 piece, ink-jet printed graphics taped to the clear glass for the marquee(it looked terrible!). I was able to find an original marquee from someone in Rochester, NY for about $20
Good eye noticing that it's the 19", I love the bezel graphics on it!

Thanks again everybody!
 
Hey everybody,
Thank you for the feedback!

Nothing on the board looks suspect to me, but I will upload a high-res image of both sides when I get home later tonight.
Does anyone have suggestions on where to send for repair?

About the Smash TV: Sorry, but it's not for sale; it's one of my favorites and by far my nicest condition cabinet; took me about a year of looking and a 5 hour drive to get it!
I got it this past spring and paid $450; it came w/ a 2 piece, ink-jet printed graphics taped to the clear glass for the marquee(it looked terrible!). I was able to find an original marquee from someone in Rochester, NY for about $20
Good eye noticing that it's the 19", I love the bezel graphics on it!

Thanks again everybody!


if you ever, i mean EVER decide to sell, please let me know :D
 
Jake, did you remove and reset all of the chips on the board already?
 
Have you used a pink eraser on the jamma contacts of the board? Even if it looks clean, this is a good idea. After that I would take a cu tip with isopropyl alcohol on it and clean the contacts with that. Simple things and they might not fix it, but sometimes they do.
 
I actually did clean the contacts w/ a q-tip & alcohol yesterday w/ no luck;
I have never heard of using a pink eraser on the contacts, I'll keep that in mind for the future. Thank you!
 
I actually did clean the contacts w/ a q-tip & alcohol yesterday w/ no luck;
I have never heard of using a pink eraser on the contacts, I'll keep that in mind for the future. Thank you!

Pink eraser is great, and if you combine that with deoxIT you have a winning combination!
 
Here's some pics of the TMNT board

IMG_2925.jpg


IMG_2927.jpg


IMG_2926.jpg


IMG_2928.jpg


IMG_2929.jpg


IMG_2930.jpg
 
I can say categorically that this is not anything to do with caps, or a dirty edge connector. Its going to be either a logic fault, a RAM fault (tho your board has Motorola SRAMs and they are quite robust, the lack of Toshiba TMM201x is a good thing) or possibly a transient fault with the mask ROMs. It also wont have anything to do with socketed chips as the ROMs on this board contain the program code, a fault there and the board would not boot.

Put the board into test mode and get it to do a full RAM ROM test, there's a much more in-depth test than the one it does at boot up. From memory you need to set the 3rd switch on the dipswitch bank 3 (the one with only 4 switches) to ON while it is powered off, then power on.

Sadly these boards are peppered with Fujitsu TTL chips and they are dropping like flies these days, but that's where my money would be.
 
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I can say categorically that this is not anything to do with caps, or a dirty edge connector. Its going to be either a logic fault, a RAM fault (tho your board has Motorola SRAMs and they are quite robust, the lack of Toshiba TMM201x is a good thing) or possibly a transient fault with the mask ROMs. It also wont have anything to do with socketed chips as the ROMs on this board contain the program code, a fault there and the board would not boot.

Put the board into test mode and get it to do a full RAM ROM test, there's a much more in-depth test than the one it does at boot up. From memory you need to set the 3rd switch on the dipswitch bank 3 (the one with only 4 switches) to ON while it is powered off, then power on.

Sadly these boards are peppered with Fujitsu TTL chips and they are dropping like flies these days, but that's where my money would be.

I agree, This is most probable a logic fault. I would also check the clock chips leading to the ram chips.
 
I would also check the clock chips leading to the ram chips.

No such thing as "clock chips leading to RAM chips" I'm afraid. DRAM has the closest to a clock with its CAS and RAS signals but those are a refresh signal, also DRAM is pretty rare on arcade boards from the mid 80s onwards.. SRAM which is by far the most common type of RAM on boards and it doesn't require refresh signals.

Assuming you were not thinking DRAM I am guessing you mean the /WE and /OE pins on the RAM chip which isn't anything to do with a clock signal, but it does synchronize the chip activity to what the rest of the board is doing. Although it is more likely to be a logic fault incorrectly driving the palette SRAMs as the youtube video shows two things. Firstly that the board is doing the right thing most of the time, secondly when it gets it wrong it is very wrong. Therefore my probe would be pointing towards the upper address lines on the two MCM2018 chips middle bottom of the board as per the first photo.

From very very faint memory the address lines are fed by a load of 74LS157 chips, I would guess (and it is a guess) that you have one that has a weak output, on pin 4, 7, 9 or 12. Fujitsu 157s are the worst of a bad bunch I have found, so many faults on so many boards. Have even had a TMNT board that was running in black and white once as a result of multiple faults
 
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