Tech Shops That Do SMD Board Repairs

tyranix95

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Hey Guys,

Can anyone recomend a couple of arcade PCB Tech Shops that can either Reflow or Replace those Big, Black, Square Graphics chips on a CAPCOM board?

Looking to check 'em out.

Thanks guys,

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BottomBoardGraphicsChip3.jpg


http://arcade.ym2149.com/pcb/capcom/msword_cps1mobo_pcb_partside.jpg

640px-Cps1_street_fighter_ii_the_world_warrior_english_label.jpg


http://arcade.ym2149.com/pcb/capcom/msword_c_pcb_partside.jpg
 
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Hey Guys,

Can anyone recomend a couple of arcade PCB Tech Shops that can either Reflow or Replace those Big, Black, Square Graphics chips on a CAPCOM board?

Looking to check 'em out.

Thanks guys,

-------------

BottomBoardGraphicsChip3.jpg


http://arcade.ym2149.com/pcb/capcom/msword_cps1mobo_pcb_partside.jpg

640px-Cps1_street_fighter_ii_the_world_warrior_english_label.jpg


http://arcade.ym2149.com/pcb/capcom/msword_c_pcb_partside.jpg

Someone posted some time ago that there was a shop in the states that would repair/replace the chips (the solder connections) for you but you have to provide the chips for replacement. I can't remember when or where that post is but Channelmaniac can do that kind of work I think and if he is busy he would know somebody that could also do that kind of work.
 
I sure would love to know the name of that shop 'cause finding CAPCOM parts does not seem to be a problem as long as there are STREET FIGHTER boards laying around.


I hope Channelmaniac can chime in with some info and recos 'cause I sure would like to see this game get going again.
 
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If you are just looking to reflow the part, I can take care of that for you. I do not stock capcom parts so you would need to supply any replacement components you wanted installed. I'm down in orange county but if you're going to SC3 you can bring the board out with you.
 
PM Sent @ xray2.

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The board plays blind, so the plan is to reflow the stock graphics chip, first, and see if that clears the grafix problem.

If the reflow does not clear up the graphics problem, then the next step is to replace the the stock graphics chip with a compatible graphics chip.

I can souce a compatible graphics chip as needed--not a problem.



I just saw the SC3 flyer. Looks fun.

SC3: http://www.sc3videogames.com/future.php

I'm gonna have to talk to some friends and see what they're up to.
 
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PM sent back.

No problem on the reflow and no charge (you can buy me lunch) as long as the pcb is for you and not for resale. If I need to lift two ICs and replace one, it will require some consumables and we can discuss options for ya.
 
Hey Thainks, xray2!

PM back at 'cha.

For now, just let me know what you think it will cost. :)

I still need to get my hads on a replacement part chip. :D
 
Just for reference, anyplace that does X-box, PS3, etc repair *the right way* should have reflow and SMT replacement equipment. Better TV repair shops may have this capability as well.

http://www.jdelectronicsinc.com/

That guy runs a TV/console game repair shop in my neck of the woods. I went to school with him....he knows his stuff. He can do flat pack chip replacement if you have the replacement parts. Knows nothing of arcade board repair, but its all the same if its just replacing a part you provide.
 
Hey, that's is cool.

I never thougth of that.

Where can I get some good info on doing X-box, PS3, etc repair *the right way.*

I want to check this out.
 
PM sent back.

No problem on the reflow and no charge (you can buy me lunch) as long as the pcb is for you and not for resale. If I need to lift two ICs and replace one, it will require some consumables and we can discuss options for ya.

I would hold out for two double double's and fries from In-Out-Burger but that is just me, I like the one on 19th street in Costa Mesa, CA
 
If a CPS1 is playing blind, check the resistor networks that make up the RGB DAC toward the center of the board. I found that on a CPS1 I got "untested" it played blind, and the resistor network was all burnt up.

What causes that, I don't know, but I detailed the repair here:

http://mikejmoffitt.com/wp/?p=77
http://mikejmoffitt.com/wp/?p=80

If you want to pull the individual TTL-level RGB data off of the board for making your own replacement DAC, here is a diagram:

dacpins.png


Since making that diagram, I have figured out that the ?? marked pins are ANDed with the RGB data to allow for screen fades without modification to the palette. If you exclude them then transition fades will not be present (like in my board)

Here is my repaired board running:




I doubt a reflow is needed, but to try to get some empirical evidence towards / away from the idea, try poking / LIGHTLY flexing the chip or area and see if anything appears at all. It is more likely that the LS07 buffers and/or the resistor networks are damaged, or something else in the late output stage.
 

Awsome.

If a CPS1 is playing blind, check the resistor networks that make up the RGB DAC toward the center of the board. I found that on a CPS1 I got "untested" it played blind, and the resistor network was all burnt up.

What causes that, I don't know, but I detailed the repair here:

http://mikejmoffitt.com/wp/?p=77
http://mikejmoffitt.com/wp/?p=80

If you want to pull the individual TTL-level RGB data off of the board for making your own replacement DAC, here is a diagram:

dacpins.png


Since making that diagram, I have figured out that the ?? marked pins are ANDed with the RGB data to allow for screen fades without modification to the palette. If you exclude them then transition fades will not be present (like in my board)

Here is my repaired board running:

...

I doubt a reflow is needed, but to try to get some empirical evidence towards / away from the idea, try poking / LIGHTLY flexing the chip or area and see if anything appears at all. It is more likely that the LS07 buffers and/or the resistor networks are damaged, or something else in the late output stage.

WoW. What a post. Nice diagram. Ok, those two logic chips in your pic. at 4C and 4E are both on a CPS1 bottom board. So, let me double check my bottom board.

Alright, I swapped the bottom board from the bad CPS1 board stack over to a known good CPS1 board stack. And the known good board stack still plays great--both sound and video. So, I know the graphics chips on the bottom board (from the bad board stack) are working A-Ok.

And I swapped the known good bottom board over the bad CPS1 board stack. And no change: The game still plays blind. So, the problem is with the other graphics chip--the one on the little top board (aka the "C" board). That's the graphics chip that need all the TLC.
 
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Just for reference, anyplace that does X-box, PS3, etc repair *the right way* should have reflow and SMT replacement equipment. Better TV repair shops may have this capability as well.

http://www.jdelectronicsinc.com/

That guy runs a TV/console game repair shop in my neck of the woods. I went to school with him....he knows his stuff. He can do flat pack chip replacement if you have the replacement parts. Knows nothing of arcade board repair, but its all the same if its just replacing a part you provide.
That's pretty cool to know there's a local place that will work on SMT stuff. Good to know. :)
 
It is possible that it's the normal connector issue. I noticed over time those connectors lose grip and no longer have a good connection.

You can double check with a multimeter to see if the connection is still good between C board to B and A board.
 
Sup XX,

Imho, all four of the B/C board connecters that connect the "C" board to the "B" board are good.

I noticed that the "C" board sits very snug inside the "B" board connetors. And, while the "C" board was connected to the "B" board, I Ohms tested each of the 160 pins (from top side to bottom side, though the board connector) and got good contact (0.00 Ohms).

Furthermore, when I put the "C" board from the bad board stack onto another known good board stack, then the known good board stack plays blind. And when I put the "C" board from the known good board stack onto the bad board stack, then the bad board stack plays great--sound and video.
 
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Sup XX,

Imho, all four of the B/C board connecters that connect the "C" board to the "B" board are good.

I noticed that the "C" board sits very snug inside the "B" board connetors. And, while the "C" board was connected to the "B" board, I Ohms tested each of the 160 pins (from top side to bottom side, though the board connector) and got good contact (0.00 Ohms).

Furthermore, when I put the "C" board from the bad board stack onto another known good board stack, then the known good board stack plays blind. And when I put the "C" board from the known good board stack onto the bad board stack, then the bad board stack plays great--sound and video.

So you certainly have a problem with that "C" board and it is taking out the video. Game still plays just no video. This will help make repair a bit easier and it sounds to me like something is shorted killing the video.
 
Yup, and there is hardly anything on the "C" board--just board connectors, traces, solder pads, PPU graphcis chip, and a cap.

Generic "C" board pic from post #1: http://mvs.gotwalls.com/images/thum...ighter_ii_the_world_warrior_english_label.jpg

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Hey, I found a tech shop that does SMD board repairs. They are located on the other side of LA. Turns out these are the guys that get the work that all the local game shops can't handle. Here is the link for the gang.

http://www.repairsandmods.com/
 
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