Tech: Halloween outrun motor

blbarchik

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Hello,

I want to use my old Sega outrun motor that shakes a whole lot and
mount it inside my homemade Dracula coffin so when people walk by I
can activate it and it will shake. So... the motor runs off of 45vdc.
I am still a newbie at dc voltages, so if the motor s rated at 45 vdc
I can run 20vdc to it and it will be okay just not shake so much
correct? Also, where would I be able to find a transformer to convert
the 110v ac line voltage to the 45 vdc that I need?
 
im pretty sure its rated up to 45vdc but they only ran like 12vdc to it... well i take that back ive tested them with a 12v battery before, not sure how much voltage they actually get during gameplay..
 
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for power, try a battery charger that can do over 10 amps, could also try an old computer power supply, car battery with a smaller charger attached(that gets my vote) , etc

If you happen to have a 24 or 36 volt transformer there, you could use that. Take that 24 or 36VAC, run it through a rectifier to a big capacitor. you could tey this:http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102703 i have no idea if it will have enough juice to work properly though.. remember youll need to wire this to a rectifier like this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062584 dont forget to make some sort of heatsink for it. Use a big capacitor like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-15000uF-...168?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20bb3a2018

then leave the transformer running and use a switch on the dc side to turn the motor on and off..


If you use the car battery method and 12v is just too slow, charge up two car batteries and wire in series.. youll have 24vdc.. thatll spin her up.. if still too slow wire up three batteries in series thatll be 36v.. you get the idea.
 
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Yeah, it's a DC motor, and should run on lower voltage, just slower.

If you have the transformer out of the outrun that the motor came out of, you'd be in luck.

To get full voltage, you'd need a 120VAC input xformer with a 36VAC output. 36VAC should rectify to about 50VDC (peak of about 1.4*RMS), if a large filter cap is used.

A 24VAC output xformer should give you about 34VDC when rectified and filtered.

You might find an appropriate transformer at Radio Shack.

You might try just hooking it up to a 12V car battery first, to see if that works for you, before rigging up an AC-to-DC power supply.
 
Thanks for the information. I have the original transformer as well both of the original large capacitors. I'm assuming that the large capacitors were used to rectify the DC voltage when they were in the game. I'm not sure how to get this thing set up. I should definitely have a fuse installed in the circuit somewhere. Do I absolutely need the filter capacitor installed for my motor to work?
 
no but with no cap the motor will hum and be slow to start etc..

heres a kraptastic diagram....

sounds like you have almost everything you need already.

to be safe could also have a fuse before the switch as well as one in the ac side which i marked.... not sure what amperage will work id start at 10 and go up if you have to..

attachment.php
 

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The diagram is awesome.

I'd just add a couple of little details:

1) Make sure you get the polarity of the capacitor correct. (It is an electrolytic cap, which means that it will have designated + and -)

2) 10A on the 120VAC side is rather high; that's 1200W (disregarding an power factor). The whole game (shaker motor and all) had a 5A fuse in it. I'd probably put in a 3A, and if it blows try a 5A, but no more.

3) I think it'd also be wise to add some sort of circuit protection on the secondary side, to more directly protect against a shorted rectifier or cap. The original had a 2A circuit breaker for this purpose. A fuse (fast-acting) would be fine instead.
 
Thanks a whole lot for the diagram. It really helps alot. I think I will add a second fuse between the transformer and the bridge rectifier. I will post a picture when I get it set up.
 
The only thing stopping me know is trying to find out what lugs on the transformer to use. I know what lugs are the ac lugs, but I'm not sure what wires to hook up going from the transformer to the rectifier.
 
I think there should be only two pairs of secondaries. You can apply power to the xformer and measure the AC voltages on the secondaries with a DMM. Two of them are lower voltage, for the audio amp; the other two are the higher voltage, for the shaker motor.

EDIT: crap, I forgot about the 1:1 output for the monitor. Does your xformer still have some of the wires attached, so you could identify wire colors?

ANOTHER EDIT: Should be the red & yellow wires, and on my xformer it's the middle pair of lugs.
 
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Okay, I will take a look at the wire colors on the transformer tomorrow. I actually have two outrun transformers; one went to an original outrun mini, that had a very small force feedback motor and the other transformer went to the outrun deluxe with the jumbo size force feedback motor.
 
Okay, I will take a look at the wire colors on the transformer tomorrow. I actually have two outrun transformers; one went to an original outrun mini, that had a very small force feedback motor and the other transformer went to the outrun deluxe with the jumbo size force feedback motor.

I've never seen nor heard of a mini with a steering wheel shaker motor. AFAIK, only the "full size" uprights had the steering shaker.

It's worth noting that everything I've said in this thread assumes a "deluxe upright" (i.e. the upright with the shaker motor). I don't know squat about the sit-down versions; never owned one, never really looked at the schematics.

The shaker motor I've been talking about has the following markings and specs:

DC Shaker motor: type: N240-35, 45V, 50W, 1.6A, 1:12.5 ratio, 350RPM, Mfgr: General Denki Kogyo
Gearhead: Yokogawa Sertec, 7RH2-12.5X042

If the one you're working with is different, then we may need to back up and re-group.
 
Yup we are talking about the same motor. On the mini outrun, as far as I know, when you hit an obstacle, the wheel didn't shake back and forth, but there was a small motor that sent vibrations through the wheel and to the player.
 
So I started the wiring on the transformer. Everything good so far? So now I need to hook up the bridge rectifier, capacitor, and another switch. The capacitor I have currently is a 20,000 mf, 25 vdc, and it should be okay to use correct? So when I hook up the two leads from the transformer to the bridge rectifier, the two lugs I use are the 35V lug and the 0 lug correct? Does it matter what 0 lug I use as there are two 0 lugs on the transformer.
 

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you decided to switch the ac side?

thatl work i suppose.. but the motor will be slow to start and slow to stop as the cap chardes up and then discharges.
 
I have it all hooked up, works, but the capacitor was bubbling, which usually means I reversed the + and - wires, but I double checked everything, so I guess the capacitor was bad from the start?
 

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